Parts That Fix Roper Washer RTW4640YQ1 Will not agitate
Will not agitate is a commonly reported symptom for the RTW4640YQ1 Roper Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your RTW4640YQ1 Roper Washer that will fix Will not agitate. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
1 Washer
Fixes Symptom 30% of time
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
$
7.69
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742027
Manufacturer Part Number WP3949550
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Washer
Customer Repair Stories
agitator broke
very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast
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Joseph from Kalkaska, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
0 of 1 people
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Fixes Symptom 21% of time
This is a replacement clutch assembly or cam kit for your washer. The clutch assembly is mounted on the drive shaft on the bottom of your washer. You may need to replace the clutch assembly if the splines on the clutch assembly are stripped and the washer is making noise, or if you are having problems with the wash and spin cycles. You will need to access the bottom of the washer for this repair. It is easiest to if you disconnect your washer from both the water and power source, and lay it on its back. The clutch assembly contains 6 parts, and all are included with the kit. It is also important to change out the entire assembly, rather than individual pieces.
$
54.38
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS10057144
Manufacturer Part Number W10721967
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Washer Drive Pulley
Customer Repair Stories
Making loud noises.
The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you
Thank you
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Roy from BROOKLYN, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
8 of 10 people
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Noise, grinding sounds. Wash tub stopped turning but motor and cycles kept functioning. Process of elimination, must be the clutch assembly.
Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.
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David from BLOOMINGTON, IN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
35 of 42 people
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Fixes Symptom 12% of time
The main drive belt is designed to ride on the pulley until the basket gets up to speed.
$
19.71
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11747978
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10006384
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Drive Belt
Customer Repair Stories
washer wasn't spinning after rinsing but the motor was running
I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job
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Terry from HANCOCK, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 10 people
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Smelled a burning odor occasionally
First, I checked the belt before ordering and then decided to order the belt, capacitor, and clutch assembly (if I needed to replace). I replaced the belt noticing the older belt came right off and new one was tighter going on. I replaced the capacitor since I had it handy and it can be known to cause this smell also. After setting wash
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er back up and started a cycle I noticed the spin cycle would not start properly so I thought maybe the capacitor (new one) was faulty or just not the exact match even though it was said to be. I replaced my older capacitor back on and again ran cycle and it ran great. Thus I decided to send the parts which were not used. I would recommend this site as I have used them in the past before on other items. They ship fast and have a great return policy if parts not used.
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Paul from E NORTHPORT, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
16 of 22 people
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Fixes Symptom 11% of time
This part changes the transmission from agitation to spin mode. This actuator is for washers. Actuator shifts the splutch and monitors the position of the splutch.
$
73.40
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11747977
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10006355
Customer Repair Stories
washer was draining but no spinning
Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws.
Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.
Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.
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JOSE from MILLBURY, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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Lid Lock light blinking, machine will not start
A detailed Service Technician Service Manual is hidden inside the machine on the front panel. It is hidden by the bleach dispenser input. It gives a list of fault codes and instructions for calibration after repair, resetting fault codes, and a manual test mode for stepping the machine through each mode on command. The Tachometer faile
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d which would not let the machine come up to maximum spin speed. The tachometer is part of the solenoid actuator that shifts the transmission. It is not specifically called out in the manual. Any failure causes the lid lock light to blink which gives the appearance of a lid lock failure
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David from Los Alamos, NM
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
312 of 387 people
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Fixes Symptom 6% of time
The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It is a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning.
$
47.84
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS3497627
Manufacturer Part Number W10404050
Customer Repair Stories
Lid would not register closed washer would not spin
Remove top of washer 5min R&R cable 20 min total time 25 min.
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william from HOLLEY, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
28 of 35 people
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Defective lid latch - Cabrio Washer
The instructions that came with the part were worthless. Essentially, unplug, put in new part, plug it back in. I spent a considerable amount of time on the internet and finally found a video showing how to open the top. Unlike other models, it is held down by clamps in the back rather than clips in the front. Once finding this inform
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ation the installation was simple. Remove the clamps and the back of the console, slide the top forward and lift, remove and replace the lock and reassemble. You don't even have to remove the hoses.
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William from Wakefield, RI
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
91 of 109 people
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Fixes Symptom 5% of time
Sold individually.
$
7.51
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS10067065
Manufacturer Part Number W10772621
Customer Repair Stories
washer not agitating
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
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the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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David from EAST AMHERST, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
11 of 11 people
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Fixes Symptom 5% of time
This part rotates back and forth to move the clothes around during the wash cycle.
$
155.50
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743336
Manufacturer Part Number WP63235
Customer Repair Stories
The agitator was not spinning.
I took a straight screwdriver and popped off the cap on top of agitator. Then used a ratchet with an extender and loosened and took out the bolt in the agitator. Then pulled the agitator straight up and inserted the new one.
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Steven from BRUCETON MLS, WV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
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agitator spin freely by hand. plastic splines striped out
remove cap on top of agitator, use socket with extension to remove bolt. pull up to remove old agitator, reverse order to install new part.
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kerry from WALKERTON, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This part is for large capacity belt drive and direct drive appliances.
$
23.77
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741977
Manufacturer Part Number WP389140
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Drive Block - 2 5/16 Inch High
Customer Repair Stories
No spin on spin cycle
Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispens
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er in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!
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Thomas from Port Jervis, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
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Loud Banging Sound At The End Of Spin Cycle
First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on,
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line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!
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John from Hawley, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
132 of 540 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This is the cap for your agitator.
$
11.10
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741199
Manufacturer Part Number WP3355758
10 Spanner Nut
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
Right hand threaded nut holds the tub in place in direct drive, top loading washing machines. To remove the spanner nut you will need a spanner wrench.
$
10.83
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738884
Manufacturer Part Number WP21366