Parts That Fix Roper Washer RTW4340SQ0 Spins slowly
Spins slowly is a commonly reported symptom for the RTW4340SQ0 Roper Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your RTW4340SQ0 Roper Washer that will fix Spins slowly. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 57% of time
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and moving more than normal, this could indicate there is an issue with your clutch. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, or if the assembly begins to turn blue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. This assembly includes a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, a black spring for compact washers, and the installation instructions. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in beige/silver.
$
27.58
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334641
Manufacturer Part Number 285785
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Clutch Assembly
Customer Repair Stories
Clothes washer would not spin with more than a couple socks in it. It would barely spin when empty.
Diagnosing the problem was the toughest part. I originally called a repair man - described to him the problem and he said it was most likely the transmission (gearbox)... of course that is one of the most expensive parts! I asked him if it was maybe the clutch... he said there was no clutch.. only a brake... I knew he was wrong after rese
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arching. The fact that the washer would agitate fine and spin very light loads but not spin anything heavy told me it was NOT the gearbox.. or the brake.. it was the clutch.. it had to be... so I called the repair man and canceled the appointment I had made then ordered the clutch assembly. Showed up very quickly. Now to the repair. I realized that I did not have to take apart the cabinet section of the washer.. I only needed access to the bottom. My washer - a 5 year old Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II had just a piece of foam blocking off the bottom of the washer... Easy access... I disconnected the hot and cold water and the drain tube. I removed the hot and cold water tubes from the back of the washer also so they would not get crushed when I laid the machine on its back. I unplugged the washer also. The drain tube I left connected to the washer.. I was afaid of it getting crushed while on its back, so I bunched up a large towel put it on the floor and tilted the washer slowly back onto it... the towel was enough of a spacer to keep the drain hose from getting crushed. I used a couple pieces of Duct Tape to hold the lid shut while on its back. I then removed the foam insert on the bottom. Then I unplugged the wiring harness. and a single wire that had a spade connector in the same area. I then removed the clips from the plastic water pump and slid it off the motor (I used Duct Tape again to suspend the water pump up and out of my way while I proceeded) I did NOT have to remove the motor from the gearbox. I used a socket wrench and unbolted the 3 gearbox bolts. I was able to take the whole unit, gearbox and motor out in one piece.. it slid right out (you will have to unscrew the the bolt in the top of the agitator/dispenser shaft - then the gearbox unit with the shaft will slide right out, I did this before I put the washer on it's back) Once it was slid out, I removed the clutch then reinstalled the same way I took it off. The only hard part was the circular wire retainer install for the clutch. It CAN all be done .. I ended up using 2 screwdrivers to put the new retaining ring into the new clutch assembly.. One screwdriver would hold down part of the retaining ring and the other I used to continue pushing the ring into place.. don't give up! You will get it in.. even with normal tools (This was the hardest part of the whole install) It took me 5 minutes with some force and fiddling. I also swapped in the new plastic piece that came with the clutch assembly... you will see where it goes... the old plastic piece looked fine, but I changed it out anyways - it hooks the clutch to the brake system it looks like. After the new clutch assembly was installed I just put it all back together the way I took it apart. One thing I will add was I was not sure if the clutch had to be lined up when I slid the shaft back into the washer.. It does not have to be.. It will align itself automatically. You know when you hear that click/pop when the washer is about to spin?.. well that is that plastic piece engaging with the clutch... there was a piece or two that fell off the shaft when I had removed it.. While sliding the shaft back into the washer I had to just put the pieces back on the shaft before I put the bolt back into the top of the agitator/shaft...
Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)
Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)
Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
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Shawn from Longmont, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
250 of 258 people
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spin cycle did not engage
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unb
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olted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
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Andrew from SLC, UT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
487 of 520 people
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Fixes Symptom 24% of time
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer because of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.
$
27.87
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1485646
Manufacturer Part Number 285753A
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Customer Repair Stories
Broken Coupling
Very easy -
1. Removed hoses from the pump
2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor
3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.
4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.
5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor sha ... Read more ft and installed the new one coupler.
6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.
7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.
8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.
9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here).
10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.
11. connected hoses back.
Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...
1. Removed hoses from the pump
2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor
3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.
4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.
5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor sha ... Read more ft and installed the new one coupler.
6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.
7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.
8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.
9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here).
10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.
11. connected hoses back.
Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...
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Hugo from Frisco, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
217 of 230 people
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No movement from Basket & agitator
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
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Jeff from Wayne, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1089 of 1169 people
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Fixes Symptom 9% of time
This kit is used for replacing the agitator directional cogs (Agitator Dogs, Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Dogs, Agitator Dog Ears). The agitator is what creates the thrusting motion in your washer to tumble your clothes during the washer cycle. Your agitator will rotate one way, and not the other. The agitator dogs are what prevent the agitator from rotating in both directions, while allowing it to rotate in one direction. Your agitator cogs may be malfunctioning if you can manually rotate the agitator in both directions. If broken they will need to be replaced. Cogs can be found by simply removing the softener dispenser and then removing the agitator cap. The are attached to the agitator. This replacement part features 4 agitator directional cogs. There are 4 cogs per package that are made up of high-quality plastic. This part comes in white/beige.
$
4.39
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS388034
Manufacturer Part Number 80040
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Agitator Directional Cogs
Customer Repair Stories
top half of agitator did not move during wash cycle
pull off softner dispenser, pop off agitator cap by inserting straight screw driver into small slot, remove bolt inside agitator with socket wrench and long extension, pull agitator straight up off shaft, place agitator on floor, with feet holding bottom half pull top half apart from bottom half by pulling straight up, note direction of o
... Read more
ld cogs remove and replace with new, reassemble
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dennis from new stanton, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
276 of 319 people
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washer wouldn't agitate
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the a ... Read more gitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the a ... Read more gitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
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mike from Kent, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
931 of 1007 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This kit (Medium Cam Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Cam Repair Kit, Cam Agitator) is used to repair the agitator. These parts are located inside the agitator auger near the top. You will need to remove the softener dispenser first if your model is equipped with one. This part is driven by the output shaft of the transmission to move the clothes during a wash cycle. The agitator auger rotates one way but not the other, which forces the laundry down and out for a constant tumbling during the wash cycle. The agitator is subjected to a lot of force during the washer wash cycle. Constant and frequent use of the appliance can cause damage, especially during heavy loads. If you’re experiencing a noisy agitator, or an agitator that spins freely in both directions, then it may be in need of repairs. If your agitator is no longer agitating properly, your clothes will not tumble, and will not be washed properly. The agitator repair kit includes an agitator cam, 4 directional cogs, a bearing, thrust spacer, inner cap seal, and a washer. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in black/white.
$
14.02
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334650
Manufacturer Part Number 285811
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Agitator Repair Kit
Customer Repair Stories
agitator making noise and didn't want to turn
I unsnapped the top of the mechanism and removed the agitor assembly, (I had already put together the new one,) I just had to unsrew the old one to get it out and screw in the new one. This took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish. My husband was away for the week and this was left up to me if I wanted it done. So I (a female)
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decided that I would attempt it.
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"
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Jo Anne from Crossville, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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Upper portion of agitator, no longer pushing clothing down.
The instructions came with the repair kit, it was fairly simple and straight foward.
One bolt held the entire agitator unit in the washer, as well as held the upper and lower halves together. Once that nut was removed the two halves seperated and the plastic clutch pieces could easily be replaced wtih the new onces in the repai ... Read more r kit.
Very easy do-it-yourself repair! Took about 20 minutes because I was being cautious. Next time I could do it in 5 minutes.
One bolt held the entire agitator unit in the washer, as well as held the upper and lower halves together. Once that nut was removed the two halves seperated and the plastic clutch pieces could easily be replaced wtih the new onces in the repai ... Read more r kit.
Very easy do-it-yourself repair! Took about 20 minutes because I was being cautious. Next time I could do it in 5 minutes.
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Matt from Pawtucket, RI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
796 of 829 people
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This kit comes with springs, hardware, and brake lining.
$
53.07
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334642
Manufacturer Part Number 285790
Customer Repair Stories
Washmachine wouldn't spindry
I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.
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Chuck from South Holland, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
14 of 16 people
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Spin cycle stopped working
Farly easy repair, once I figured out the problem. The clutch assebly plastic part broke (over 15 yrs old), which is the part that engages the drum for the spin cycle. Following the very helpful diagram on Part Select, I removed the agitator cap and bolt from inside the agitator assembly, and pulled the assembly out of the drum. Then I
... Read more
put the washer on its side and removed the three bolts and two hose claps that hold the motor assembly. I pulled the motor assembly along with the drive shaft out to access the clutch/brake assembly area, removed the broken plastic drive piece and re-assembled.
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Brent from Highlands Ranch, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
40 of 47 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
$
7.04
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741866
Manufacturer Part Number WP358237
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Agitator Bolt
Customer Repair Stories
The agitator had stopped working
We got the parts, watched your video a couple of times and then began the repair. It went well with one exception. None of my socket extensions were long enough to work well. The required length might be added to the video and the printed installation instructions. Also it would have nice to have been able to order a small tube of the rec
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ommended lubricant. Overall I was very pleased. Jack
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Jack from Matthews, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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could not get the bottom agitator to release, so finally just left it in place, first bolt I had did not fit right so ordered one directly from your store also had to wait dor my tools to get in
I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place a
... Read more
nd the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story
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Linda Dianne from Poteau, OK
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set
1 of 2 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This is a genuine OEM thrust spacer for your washer, and is also commonly known as a retainer ring. The spacer is about 2.5 inches in diameter, is made of plastic, and is white in color. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. The spacer is fitted between the agitator and the agitator auger to support it as it moves. This part is sold individually. Although it is not included in this part, you should have some dual-action agitator grease for the repair as well.
$
7.64
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334562
Manufacturer Part Number 285587
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Thrust Spacer
Customer Repair Stories
The agiator would not work properly
Removed the agiator and replaced the broken part and replaced the agiator.
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Velma from Belvidere, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
0 of 1 people
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Agitator seperated from inside of wash drum
I had to find a point of reference first since item came apart in wash cycle and internal pieces fell out - thank goodness for YOUTUBE. Another guy was thoughtful enough to do a video on how the assembly came apart / went back together - a huge help for sure. Actual repair was less than a half hour after obtaining new part and seeing vi
... Read more
deo. The 12 year old washer works like brand new - saving me close to 1,000 dollar replacement charges.
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Larry from Brandon, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This basket drive assembly is for washers. Basket drive assembly sits on top of the transmission shaft and houses the spin basket brake mechanism. The basket drive spins to rotate the basket during the spin cycle.
$
155.28
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11723156
Manufacturer Part Number W10820043
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Basket Drive Assembly with Clutch
Customer Repair Stories
The Shaft On The Direct Drive Was Worn
Removed the control panel and the cabanit. Then removed the adjutatior . Removed the motor and gear box slid the old shaft out and put the new one in put back together. Took about one hour .
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ALLEN from Newton, KS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part is for large capacity belt drive and direct drive appliances.
$
23.77
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741977
Manufacturer Part Number WP389140
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Drive Block - 2 5/16 Inch High
Customer Repair Stories
No spin on spin cycle
Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispens
... Read more
er in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!
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Thomas from Port Jervis, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
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Loud Banging Sound At The End Of Spin Cycle
First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on,
... Read more
line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!
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John from Hawley, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part prevents the agitator shaft from leaking oil onto the transmission.
$
24.07
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741173
Manufacturer Part Number WP3349985
Customer Repair Stories
Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.
1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outl ... Read more et drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outl ... Read more et drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
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Thomas from Pascoag, RI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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