RT18DKYWW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

First I removed the racks in the freezer. The rack supports on the sides lift off without tools. The evaporator cover is at the back of the freezer. 4 phillips head screws. The cover lifts up then forward to expose the evaporator, evaporator fan and duct. The duct is held by 3 hex head screws. The evaporator fan is attached to the duct with a wiring pigtail to a plug. Unplug the fan and remove the duct. The fan is held by 2 hexhead screws. The new fan is put in place and assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly. The unit is quiet and cools properly now. The new part fit perfectly.

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Trouble shot the electrical circuit per the electrical schematic and zeroed in when I noted the Defrost Timer circuit was open. When I tapped on the bottom of the timer it began functioning normally (for a few days). Ordered a new Defrost Timer Kit and along with the installation instruction, I watched the on-line video. It was very helpful!!
After installation was complete, I plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and.......nothing happened! Hmmm!

Removed the Defrost Time Kit and inspected it for any damage and found none. Then I placed a flathead screwdriver to the manual advance knob and slightly rotate the gear mechanism. I heard a distance "click”. I believe the Timer was in the ‘defrost’ mode when received.

I reinstalled the timer, verified the wiring connections and this time plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and ….. it worked!!!

I unplugged the refrigerator, finished the installation per the instructions, plugged the unit in and monitored it for a few hours (just in case). That was a week ago and the Refrigerator is working like new.

The instructions were written in a manner which required re-reading a few times as they could be a bit vague. The video was what really helped and I appreciate PartSelect adding it to the instructions.

De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct terminal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

After unplugging the fridge, I removed all the phillips head screws from the evaporator fan housing as well as the back cover and the bottom of the freezer compartment (7) in all. After first removing the bottom cover - then the back cover I could access the evaporator fan unit. This was held in place with two hex-head screws that were easily removed with a nut driver. Then after unplugging the Red, White, and Green wires from the fan I removed it and replaced it with the new one. I did have to break off the two ends of the mounting bracket as described in the instruction sheet since it was too wide. Repeating the above steps in reverse, I had the job done and refridgerator up and running as quiet as could be in less than 15 minutes.

My refrigerator is 17 years old. The gasket seal around the door finally needed to be replaced. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. They had the cheapest price, including shipping. The part alone was still expensive, though, (almost $60!) for just being a piece of rubber.

There are little screws all around the inside of the refrigerator door, under which part of the gasket rests. A socket-set was needed to determine which one would fit the screws. The first step is to remove the old gasket. I discovered (the hard way!) that it makes sense to unscrew them a few at a time to remove the old gasket, and screw them back in, until you are ready to install the new one. My refrigerator door was not one "solid" piece. It is two pieces screwed together (with those little screws), and has insulation in the middle of the two pieces. If you unscrew too many at one time, the two pieces of the door will come apart, so don't do that.

When it was time to put the new gasket on, again, it made sense to do a few at a time. I started at the top of the door. Along with the screws, there is a metal rod that holds the gasket in place. Once you unscrew the screws, you place the back flap of the gasket underneath the metal rod. The gasket itself has holes that should line up with the holes for the screws. The rest of the gasket goes on top of the metal rod and screws. Then put the screws back in, using your socket wrench, and begin the next section (ie one side of the door). Work your way around the door, doing one side at a time. The bottom was the most difficult part to get to. Be careful not to run your fingers along the metal rod to push the gasket. I did cut my finger a bit. (Use something other than your finger to do the job.) The whole thing took me a while, but I got it done, while my HUSBAND sat and watched tv.

I unscrewed the top broken end cap and bottom end cap (had to match-up the chrome pieces), attached the handle to both of the new end caps, and using a phillips screw driver, screwed them back on to the refrigerator. Very easy.
The blow-up illustration I used to order the part, it was very helpful.

I was able to salvage the existing wiring and simply replace the ice maker itself and the valve located at the bottom-rear of the frig.

Simply removed and replaced the screws, changed the water tube and connected everything back up. I probably spent more time cleaning behind the frig that replacing the parts.

Very pleased with how quickly the parts came and everything was included!