REL4622BL2 Roper Dryer - Instructions

After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing and back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!

1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

after watching many videos on my problem and finding Partselect i read about others with same type issues and i decided to attempt my own repair.the first thing i did was go to home depot and buy a ohm meter around $10 then started testing all switches etc.first unplug the dryer then removed the rear panal and tested all circuits.my heating element tested bad so i removed it following the instructions from partselect taking about 5min.my heating element was broken.its funny but my dryer kept on running continually when it stopped heating,but the timer would move to the very end and just not quit.after reading on partselect i determined that my resistor not my timer was the problem.so i ordered the resistor without testing it first from partselect.turns out it was the problem now my dryer heats up fine and goes off like its supose to.i do advise to test things first like i should have but i just got lucky on the resistor.partselect is the only place i will buy from they are fast getting your part to you 2 days for me,and very cost effective.i spent around $84 including the cost of a ohm meter to repair my dryer which is 18 years old.beats the cost of replacing the dryer which i think many will agree.good luck on your repair hope this helped it was my first time ever repairing any home appliance.

-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located on upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife

After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.

couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!

Removed rear panel 10 screws, and heating element was situated on the right hand side of dryer and was held in place by two screws and had two heavy duty red wires connected to the element which were easily removed . Installing this item was a breeze .

Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

Went to 3 big appliances stores - Not one carried any type of Lint Filter for Dryer. Went on line & typed in Lint Filter for Dryer in search bar. Part Select came up. Went thru site to ordering - Part Select made so easy to order. You just type in your Manufacture name & they instruct you step by step how to find model number & type of filter you need. So Easy. Very economical. I ordered & within 4 days I had my filter. I used 7-14 day delivery & was so pleased I had my filter within 4 days. Parts Select sent me email verifying my order as well as email when the part shipped.
Wonderful Customer Service. I will definitely use Part Select for any need part on any appliance.
Easy - Economical & One Stop Shopping. Love it

use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in

Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.

Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.

Turn off the circuit breaker ( Or remove the Fuse/s )to the dryer,

Removed 2 screws that hold the control cluster to the dryer top. Then I slid the control cluster forward and up to release it from the dryer. then I removed the start button knob to the start switch by pulling on it straight out. Next I removed the six 1/4" hex head screws from back of the removed control cluster. Then using a flat bladed screwdriver I pried up the tab coming off the switch housing. just enought to allow the switch to be turned a quarter of a turn counter clockwise which allows the switch to be removed from the back of the control cluster. Next with a pair of long nose pliers gently pull straight up on the 2 wire terminals attaching wires to the switch. Make a diagram before removing them so that they can be put on the new switch in the same way. Then orient the new switch with its tab located a quarter turn counter clockwise from the hole you pried the old switch tab from. push down on the switch while turning it clockwise 1/4 turn so the tab on the switch drops into it's locking hole. Then using your diagram put the wire terminals back on the switch terminals in the same order and position they came off. Replace the Control panel with the screws you removed. Next position the control panel feet over the holes for them in the top of the dryer and push back a little on the panel to lock it in the correct position. Then take the two longer screws and put one on each side of the panel at the correct angle (not straight up and down) but tilted forward to match the holes and carefully tighten the screws. Next carefully replace the push to start knob on the new switch. Turn the Circuit Breaker (or reinstall the Fuse/s) for the Dryer back on. Then test and make sure that when you select the cycle and the door is closed that pushing the start switch causes the dryer to start. You have done it!

actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)