RBS305PDQ6 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes.
I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. First I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed.
Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.)
Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.

Due to the screws that hold the handle on being inside the oven door, I had to take the door completely apart to install the new handle. Once I figured out the pieces I had to remove the process was simple it just took time. Part was perfect.

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.

I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you

Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.

Removed 4 screws top and bottom of the outer door panel. Remove outer door, then the two inner panes of glass. You are then able to remove the broken inner glass. Carefully slide the new inner glass into place, being careful not to tear the insulation. Once new inner glass is in place carefully replace the two inner glass panes and secure the screws. Replace the outer door and the top and bottom screws and that's it!

Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.

Turned off breaker to oven. Removed 2 screws, used pliers to remove 2 wires from old element, replaced with new part, connected wires to new element and screwed in 2 screws. Turned on breaker, then oven and new element heated. Very easy!

Replaced the lower heating element with a new part.