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Models > RBD275PDQ8 > Instructions

RBD275PDQ8 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for RBD275PDQ8 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the wall oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the RBD275PDQ8
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every time I would try to do the self clean mode on my drop in range the thermostat blows. Last time it was still under warranty. I took the part number from the repair man's invoice to order the new part.

  • Customer: joyce from thomasville, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

Oven door would not close completely

  • Customer: Michael from Burr Ridge, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed door per manual instructions, then disassembled door components until I could remove the hinges. Nothing wrong with either one visually but, hoping the springs had become weak over time, I ordered replacements from PartSelect, knnowing I had a 30-day return window if my diagnosis was wromg.

It was right. Door now closes just fine.

oved door no longer closed tightly

  • Customer: Don from Portola Valley, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed door from oven using hinge locking pins supplied with oven when bought (two small screwdrivers might also work). Put door face down on a towel, removed two screw s on top and on bottom edge, removed back of door, then removed the two screws on eac side holding the old hinge springs. installed new hinge spings and replaced the door. no problems and used the opportunity to clean the door glass.

Bottom element not working.

  • Customer: Denise from HIGH SPRINGS, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off breaker to oven. Removed 2 screws, used pliers to remove 2 wires from old element, replaced with new part, connected wires to new element and screwed in 2 screws. Turned on breaker, then oven and new element heated. Very easy!

No heat to oven, all other controls appear to function

  • Customer: Stephen from PLACENTIA, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

Inner glass on the oven door was broken

  • Customer: Stephen from Sunnyvale, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
First remove the side trimmings by opening the oven door and taking out the two screws near the bottom. Remove the bottom trim by removing the two screws now exposed. Here's the hard part .. The outer glass is held by 4 screws 2 at the top and 2 through U brackets at the bottom. You must remove the 2 bottom ones first and then VERY carefully, whilst supporting the glass remove the 2 top ones and then gently pull from the bottom to release the glass at the top and pull away. The rest is straightforward. There are 4 glass pieces to remove, make sure you clean the finger marks off as you replace them. I would suggest 2 people to replace the final outer glass 'to be safe"

I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.

  • Customer: Frank from Palm Coast, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Upper Oven Latch Not Functioning Properly

  • Customer: Jack from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

Bottom trim was damaged and needed replacing

  • Customer: Alexander from Charlotte, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the left/right outside trim on the double oven. To do this you will need a phillip screw driver. There is only one screw holding each side located at the bottom of the trim (on the inside between the trim and the door). Remove the trim by pulling out and down. Remove the bottom trim by removing the screws located on the outside of the trim. Remove the trim by pulling down and out. Replace the new trim by reversing the process making sure to replace bottom trim first because the outside trim goes over bottom trim to cover up the screws on the bottom trim

There was an annoying buzzing sound coming from the bottom of the stove

  • Customer: Craig from Snoqualmie, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I pinpointed the location of the sound, took off the protective plate, felt it vibrating against the plate. I disconnected the power supply, and looked at the wirings and how it was connected, saw some burning residue surrounding the area of the Transformer. Then figured that I could simply replace this. I wrote down the Model and Serial number of the Stove, searched online, found this site. Located the part on the diagram, then simply ordered it. My part arrived in 3 days, and had the part replaced the next day. Couldn't be a smoother fix. Thanks.

Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.

  • Customer: Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
  • Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

After using self cleaning feature oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Nadine from ALACHUA, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I looked up the problem and determined I needed to replace the limit switch which is inside the back panel. As a 78 year old woman who isn't afraid to tackle these problems I found this easier than most. Just be sure to disconnect the electrical connection if you don't have long enough length to pull oven from the wall cabinet. I won't put any sheet pans in the oven next time I self clean it.

Broken heat element.

  • Customer: David from CARY, NC
  • Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the lower heating element with a new part.

Bad control board

  • Customer: Phil from MEMPHIS, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I simply plug all connections together , screwed in the decorative corners and I was done. I want to thank the company and tech for such a very quick turn around. I never thought I would get the control board back so fast. you received it on Tuesday and I got it back Thursday of the same week.thanks again.

I was trying to remove the oven door so I could clean the glass. Spills had run down between the layers of glass.

  • Customer: Karen from Oklahoma City, OK
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.
All Instructions for the RBD275PDQ8
31-45 of 111