PLHS69EESS2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

The parts came within 2 days. The delivery was great. I took the food off the door, then removed the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid the door on a blanket on the floor. I then had access to the closing mechanism top and bottom that is just two plastic cams that lift the door as it opens. The weight of the door then is used on the cams to help close the door with the appliance level. It was very simple and assembly was just reverse order.

This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order

I pulled out all the screws and from the freezer side and remove the panel, then I located the thermostat snap the old one out and put the new one in.

I followed the other instruction listed.

1. Took off the outer cover and water drip tray.
2. Took off the outer circuit board (DID NOT DISCONNECT it)
3. Disconnected the black paddle holder, but DID NOT DISCONNECT the water tube.
4. As I did not disconnect the water tube I had to very slightly east it PARTIALLY out.
5. There are two screws that hold the sides of the paddle legs in. To rempve these screws I used a phillips screwdriver.
6. After removing these two screws you can remove the broken water actuator.
7. There is a small plastic aligning tip on the left hand side wher the metal covers sit on the actuator fiengers. NOTE THIS NEEDS TO BE REMOVED as I could not get the left actuator fienger to pop over it. I removed it with a needle nose pliers. After removing the tip the actuator poped right into its slot.
8. You cannot hold the two screws and the covers so I used a little piece of chewing gum to hold the cover to the screw and the screw to the screwdriver. It worked great.
9. Then I put the unit back together in reverse order... it functioned better than before.

Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...

This could not have been easier. I came to this website looking to see how much the part was before i called a repairman to come do it. I saw everyones instructions and decided to try it myself. To replace the ice maker you basically unscrew 2 screws, unplug the broken one and remove it. Plug in the new and tighten the screws to hold it in place. I would have been REALLY unhappy if i had called a repairman and saw that was how it was done.
Could not have been easier

The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others.
Take care-Bill

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

The symptom was a fried power board located in the freezer door behind the ice/water dispenser. Replacing the board was fairly easy. However, the new board also cooked soon thereafter. I discovered that the root cause for this failure was a failed diode Part Number 5303918287. The diode is located in the wiring near the three water solenoids in the rear (lower right) where the water enters the unit. Unless the diode is also replaced, the board will fail again.
Replacement of these components is fairly easy. One trick that work well for me during re-assembly was to use a long wood screw to thread up through the water dispenser panel and into the end of the water tube, and then pull on the screw head to gently feed the tube down into the dispenser.

The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

Remove both crisper pans and covers. Discard old frames and re-use glasses. Use two screw drivers to gently pry out broken supports. Top broken off smooth on one support. Unable to grasp with pliers to pull out. I drilled a small hole in the center of the large expansion pin. I screwed in a small sheet metal screw. Used side cutter pliers to grasp screw and gently rock back and forth to remove center of large pin. Plucked out broken pieces with needle nosed pliers. Gently tap in expansion pins to install new supports. The rest is simple re-assembly using new parts. "Nothing to it but to do it."

When the ice maker is over filling, either the valve is defective or clogged, or the ice maker is at fault signaling the valve to stay open too long. My problem was the latter. I had already replaced the valve, thinking that being only 2 years old, how could the ice maker be faulty. I was wrong. Ice maker unplugs and comes out with 2 screws. A quick swap with the new ice maker and all is well. Simple

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.