PDW9280J00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Detached the dishwasher from the cabinet. Slid it out. Removed small guide wheel that the cable went through. Removed the old broken cable. Replaced with new cable. Replaced the guide wheel. Hooked the cable to the door. Hooked the other end to the spring and hooked the spring to the body of the dishwasher. Put some WD40 on the the cable guide. Slide the dishwasher back under the counter and attached it to the cabinets. All done.

I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.

Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!

Lower assembly only require removal and replacement without tools. Upper assembly required screw driver and pliers to install water wand from old rack to new rack.

The most surprising aspect of this repair was the short 36 hours that it took from order placement to product receipt.

We removed the remaining rollers, inserted the studs into the rollers and attached to the lower rack. Easy. I can't believe we put up with this for so long. We appreciate your quick service. So much easier than going shopping and waiting for the parts to come in and then having to go pick them up. Thanks for being there.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. I started with the lower end since I didn't know just how the seal was installed and found the wire that sticks into the hollow center of the end of the seal. The seal just pulls out so removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the bottom and working upwards. after the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. I did that because I have seen seals stretch as you push them in place and end up in the middle with excess material you have to work back into the seal channel.

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

1. Removed the cap ends from the inner rails - easy

2. Removed the old rusted rack from the inner rails- easy

3. Removed the spray arm and conduit - a bit difficult: there's a hard-to-reach nut that you need to remove at the hub of the spray arm - A pain in the neck because it cannot be reached vertically.

4. Installed the spray arm and conduit onto new rack. Make sure the conduit aligns with the pipe at the rear inner wall! - easy

5. Installed the rack onto the rails - easy

6. inserted the cap ends - done!

This is one of those things that after you do it, you wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Installation was a snap - literally. All I did was remove the wheels from the bottom dishwasher drawer (they didn't stay on anyway...and one had fallen off mid-wash and melted). I was able to re-use the wheels and simply snap in the new axels - which have a far superior design. I ordered a couple extra wheels to replace the one that melted and to have on hand...just in case. Delivery was incredibly fast - I received the parts the day after I placed the order. Why didn't I do it sooner?!

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

The repair itself was simple. I replaced the broken plastic pulley and the cable attached to the door and spring because one end was bent. I also had to remove the fitting that held the pulley in place. In order to access the spring, I had to pull the dishwasher way out and that required disconnecting the water supply, the drain tube, and the electrical wiring! Then I had to reconnect everything. So although the repair took less than 30 minutes, the rest of the work took a couple hours.

Open dishwasher and remove the bottom spray wheel, filter, and unscrew the mounting bracket to release the pump connector below the bottom of the unit. Remove mounting screws at top front of dishwasher and carefully slide the unit out; you may have to pry side panels inward with a flat screwdriver in order to get the dishwasher past any cabinetry. Be careful not to pull the dishwasher too far out as the water supply and drain hoses could be damaged. Unplug the unit. Turn unit sideways and tip over onto its' back. At this point, the sump will have to be removed using a nut-driver and/or socket set. This will open access to remove the old pump connector. Replace the old connector with the new connector, and reassemble the sump, connecting and firmly tightening all connectors. Tip unit upright. Screw mounting bracket back into the bottom of the dishwasher and put the remaining parts back. Before pushing the unit back into it's nook, I advise running a quick cycle just to make sure there is no leakage. If there is no leakage, put the unit back, tighten the mounting screws and you're done.

get fingers between lower spray arm and drive flange - rotate arm counter-clock wise and lift off...the arm was warped and hitting inside of lower door liner.

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

Easy repair-removed hex nuts and and screws to pop out old part and replace with new one. New part works better than the original! 1st replacement part arrived with a broken piece, a quick, courteous phone call got a replacement sent out. It took a 2nd phone call to obtain the refund, but the customer care reps are efficient and friendly. I would order from them again for positive service reasons alone.