Parts That Fix Maytag Washer PAVT234AWW Will not agitate
Will not agitate is a commonly reported symptom for the PAVT234AWW Maytag Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your PAVT234AWW Maytag Washer that will fix Will not agitate. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 34% of time
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS2018203
Manufacturer Part Number 21001878
Replacing your Maytag Washer Agitator Auger and Post Assembly
Customer Repair Stories
Auger would not stay attached to assembly
Removed laundry softener dispenser, removed bolt with socket wrench and long extension, pulled off old assembly piece, installed new assembly and replaced bolt. It took longer to order the part than to replace it!
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George from Warwick, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
23 of 25 people
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The agitator auger was broke.
All i did was remove the screw, took off broken agitator auger and replaced it with the new one and put the screw back in and was done in about 5 mintues. Super easy.
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Donna from Borger, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
50 of 68 people
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Fixes Symptom 26% of time
This V-style drive belt measures 51 inches long and 3/8 inches wide. The belt is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required. Continued use can result in the belt suffering from wear and tear. Replace the V-style drive belt if you notice that it looks damaged. The most common symptoms of a damaged drive belt include: a burning smell or a loud grinding noise coming from the washer; the drum will not spin, spins slowly, or will not agitate; the washer shakes and moves, will not start, or will not drain.
$
10.98
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738882
Manufacturer Part Number WP21352320
Replacing your Norge Washer Drive Belt - 51 inches long
Customer Repair Stories
drive belt was squealing and slipping
I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and
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motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.
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Kevin from North Plains, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
16 of 17 people
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slipping drive belt
Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!
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stephen from redondo beach, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
25 of 31 people
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Fixes Symptom 16% of time
This transmission pulley and bearing kit, also known as thrust bearing kit or washer pulley and bearing kit, includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, two upper race washers, and one lower race washer. These genuine Whirlpool parts are plastic and are not sold individually. The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin, will not drain, or has no agitation. The washer will need to be tilted on its back or side to access the bottom. The tools needed to complete this repair are a small flat blade screw driver and a pair of slip joint pliers.
$
69.83
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2003651
Manufacturer Part Number 12002213
Replacing your Maytag Washer Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
Customer Repair Stories
washer would not spin water out in heavy loads
You do not have to remove any water lines to do this repair. Just unplug the machine from the electric outlet and tip it up on its back to make the repair. I removed the old belt and parts per the instructions. The new kit does not look like the old one. Make sure you mark the minimum and maximum marks with a sharpie on the plastic pul
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ley before intalling it. This will help line up the cam bearing to test the spin cycle. The repair kit says to use the thickest washer but mine would not fit on so I used the thinner washer. Keep the other washer so that in the future if the plastic part wears down and you have spinning problems again you can replace it with the thicker washer. Also make sure you buy a new belt and replace the belt. I loaded it up with a full load of jeans and it works great.
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marcus from mansfield, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
41 of 46 people
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washer would agitate, drain, but would not spin
I put the washer on the spin cycle and could see that the tub wanted to move. While it was trying to spin I leaned the washer forward and saw that the motor was spinning and the belt was turning, but the tub wasn't. Did some reading and it was the thrust bearing. I ordered the part and replaced them (very easy, follow the directions that
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come with the set). After install, the tub would spin.
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michael from mountain home, ID
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
42 of 47 people
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Fixes Symptom 7% of time
This motor is a 2 speed, 1/2 HP, 120V, 60Hz.
$
163.40
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738839
Manufacturer Part Number WP21001950
Replacing your Maytag Washer Motor with Pulley
Customer Repair Stories
broken motor pulley
i removed the plastic cover.then i disconnected the harnest.i then removed the 2 screws and took the motor out. i took a hack saw blade and made a mark in the old pulley. i then took a screw driver and put it in the crack and tapped on it and the old pulley fell apart. i then put on the new pulley and reconnect the motor. i then reconnect
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the belt.my washer is working great.it was so easy and i save myself some money in the process.
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leighton from staten island, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
62 of 76 people
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The belt and pulley on the drive motor broke
unplug the washer. Removed the top of the washer by removing the hold scews and tabs on the upper back. Place a scew drive under the front and pry up to release the snap tabs. Then the front panel by removing the two screws on top and lift the panel up to expose the motor at bottom front. Remove the motor cover (plastic)and motor from the
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base, replace the pulley on the shaft (you may need to break or pry the old pulley off) install the new pulley making sure it is all the way up the shaft locking the tabs into the shat groove. Reinstallmotor to the base. To replace the belt, tilted the unit backwards to access the pulleys from the bottom and installed.
Note: it ios easier to install the belt fully on the two smaller puleys attcahed to the drive motor and pump and then wrap as much as you can around the larger drum pulley. Hold the belt in one hand and turn the drum pulley clockwise with the other and the belt will follow and install. reverse steps to reassemble.
Note: it ios easier to install the belt fully on the two smaller puleys attcahed to the drive motor and pump and then wrap as much as you can around the larger drum pulley. Hold the belt in one hand and turn the drum pulley clockwise with the other and the belt will follow and install. reverse steps to reassemble.
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Michael from Warminster, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
151 of 189 people
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Fixes Symptom 5% of time
Base only. Top agitator sold separately.
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS2017908
Manufacturer Part Number 21001530
Fixes Symptom 3% of time
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If your machine is not draining properly or if it is noisy and shakes during operation, you may need to replace the drain pump. This is a redesigned part. The pump now mounts on to the base of the washer. This product is made of white plastic and has a metal center. Before you can replace the drain pump, you will have to disengage the drive belt under the machine. To reach the drain pump you will need to remove the access panel on the backside of the washing machine.
$
120.13
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741803
Manufacturer Part Number WP35-6780
Replacing your Maytag Washer Washer Drain Pump
Customer Repair Stories
Skreeching noise during spin cycle
Pulled out washer, laid on front, removed access panel and the pump was right there. Three screws with 5/16" nut driver, pliers to release hose clamps, remove hoses, remove belt from pully, remove old pump. Install new pump with three screws, two hoses and clamps, finally put belt on new pulley and other small pulley and used screw drive
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r shaft to pull belt on to large pulley. replace access panel, put washer back in place. It literally took me more time to clean the floor under where the washer was than to change the part. Piece-o'-cake.
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Robert from Mesa, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
64 of 65 people
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bearing on water pump siezed
back panel,belt two hoses,three screws, $100 dollars for the part!! pump is a molded part with a bearing insertion, is made in USA ! I'm guessing around 7 to 10 dollar manufacturing cost. I'm thinking that kind of mark-up is only exceded by the pharmacutical industry. I'm looking to buy a used machine for parts!!
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kevin from rochester, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
119 of 133 people
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time
This is part of the lid switch actuator mechanism and activates the lid switch, when the lid is closed, to start the wash cycle and when the lid is open, it stops the cycle.
$
57.02
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742355
Manufacturer Part Number WP43-0057
Replacing your Norge Washer Lid Switch Actuator - Black
Customer Repair Stories
Washer Spin Cycle Stopped
Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.
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Diana from La Mirada, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 9 people
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Lid switch had deteriated over time and no longer made contact
removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.
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James from Rochester, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 12 people
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This part is the replacement motor pivot spring for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. The motor pivot spring helps hold the drive motor in the correct position on the motor plate. If your drive motor shakes during use, if the pumps will not operate, or if your washer is excessively loud during operation, you may need to replace the motor pivot spring. Be sure to disconnect the washer from the power source before you begin this repair. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
$
9.76
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739525
Manufacturer Part Number WP22004376
Replacing your Maytag Washer Motor Pivot Spring
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
The snubber ring is a piece that is specific to your washing machine. The function of the snubber ring is to reduce noise and vibrations within your washer. It fits in between the leg and the dome assembly. If during your spin cycle you notice your washer jumping and making loud whirring noises, you may need to replace your snubber ring. The tools you will need for this repair include: a putty knife, a 5/16 nut driver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a 3/8 socket and a ratchet, a small flat blade screwdriver, a pair of locking pliers, and a pair of slip joint pliers.
$
13.11
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738845
Manufacturer Part Number WP21002026
Replacing your Maytag Washer Snubber Ring
Customer Repair Stories
Washer jumping all over the place even with a small load.
I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.
Ok, let's do this thing.
MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" ... Read more plires.
1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.
2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.
3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.
4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.
5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.
6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!
7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.
8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.
Ok, let's do this thing.
MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" ... Read more plires.
1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.
2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.
3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.
4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.
5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.
6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!
7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.
8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.
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Gary from Sioux City, IA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 25 people
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Washer shakes violently during spin cycle
I used the instructions from others and modified them with tips and details based on my own experience:
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move th ... Read more e washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move th ... Read more e washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur
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Hank from Alpharetta, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
37 of 42 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
$
13.62
Special Order
PartSelect Number PS11740547
Manufacturer Part Number WP25-7854