PAV2300AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Disconnect AC, turn off water pressure, flip it backwards to remove the drive belt below, open back small panel (4 screws), Use pliers to disconnect hoses from drain pump, and finally remove the 3 bolts, and walah, reverse procedure and tell your spouse what a hero you are.

removed the bottom back, changed the pump/pulley assembly, tilted to change the belt. Easy and fixed our problem.

First thing was to go to PartSelect website to see what others with the same problem did to solve their problem. It was 45% pump and a lot less for the belt. My belt is only a year old so that was out. I ordered my new pump and watched the video on PartSelect a couple of times. I didn't bother to disconnect the water and drain lines. I had my wife hold a plastic 2 quart container under the pump when I pulled the small hose off and didn't spill a drop. Like the man on the video said...the new pump isn't identical but it fits and works fine. Thankx PartSelect!

installed new pump, 10 min. job

Took the front panel off the washer with a screwdriver, tilted the washer back and propped it up with a paint can, unscrewed 2 nuts & bolts, disconnected the electric to the motor and lifted out, put the new motor in place & secured it with the nuts & bolts, reconnected the electric and re-installed the front panel of the machine and I was done.

very easy repair, acess from the back, just a 1/2 dozen screws to change

Simply followed the instructions on the video provided and the repair was a breeze - quite impressive service!

I replaced the water level switch by taking loose the five screws on the back of the control panel, The clamp on the clear hose, and the two screws which went through the Wtr. lvl. switch. I also moved the wires from the old switch to the new, one at a time. This didn't fix my problem so i replaced the Water valve on the bottom-rear of the machine by removing the screw, the two hoses and the four wires. I removed these one at a time, moving the wires directly from the old valve and attaching them to the new valve.This fixed my problem good as new.

Removed and placed new one in 15 minutes. Thank You so much for the help

Sure enough, it was the Drain Pump. Replacing the drain pump itself was a piece of cake, even though mine was located at the BACK of the unit, bot the front like the instructional video. The tough (or at least time consuming) process was emptying the washer of all the standing water before the problem could be properly diagnosed and the repair completed. Needless to say, a ShopVac was the solution for the main tub, although there is still a bunch of water left under the main tub, in the hoses and even in the broken Drain Pump. Have lots of towels and a small bucket on hand - and someone to help empty the bucket while you're crouched behind the washer by the wall! :) Other than that, replacing the actual part is easy, and replacing the belt is easier once the new working (rotating) drain pump is in place.

Easy to replace. Just wish they would have suggested to order the screw as well at the same time.

placed washer on front exposing bottom of machine. removed clip holding pulley in place with needle nose pliers. The old parts slid off transmission shaft easily. I set these aside in order of removal. The replacement parts were not exact matches to OEM parts replacement bearing was heavier duty and thicker there were washers in the kit that would not even slid onto transmission shaft,replacement pulley and cam were exact replacements for OEM. I replaced the bearing and thrust washer and then used a combination of new and old washers to build the assembly back to the original length so the retaining clip would hold assembly firmly in place.The instructions key point was that the final height had to bring the pulley back to the original height for a snug fit with retaining clip. Once I realized this the extra parts in the kit were less worrisome.

I replaced both the belt (PS2018741) and water pump (PS2347193)on my Maytag Washer MAVT446AWW. I replaced the belt and water pump at the same time because my machine was making a pretty loud knocking noise (like a belt was flapping loose -- but the old belt was not broken. I used the instructions in the PartSelect.com video and installation was pretty easy. Both the new belt and water pump work fine. BUT the knocking noise in the wash cycle is still there. Does anyone have a suggestion on what I can check next with regard to this problem? Thanks

Easy fix. I pulled the washer out from the wall and leaned the top back to the wall. I then removed the belt from the bottom. I set the washer back on all fours and slide it around so I could get to the back water pump access panel. Using a nut driver, I removed the screws from the panel, then I removed the panel. I could now see the water pump. With a pair of pliers I removed the two hose clamps, and removed the end of the hose's from the pump. Then with a socket wrench I removed the three screws holding the pump down and removed the pump. In reverse order I put it back together. It works fine and saved me a lot of money from happened to buy a new washer. Thanks PartSelect.

Just as shown in video on website