NWXR473EV1AA Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.

I removed the two screws at the front above the drum opening (with the dryer door open). The top panel then lifts off. I removed the screw at each side that holds the front panel to the side panels, tilted the front panel forward, which disengages the front of the drum from the front drum glide bearing. I then lifted the front panel slightly, unhooking the bottom of the panel from the dryer base, and swung the front panel aside. I removed the existing top drum bearing guide, which was disintegrated, and snapped in the new bearing guide, with the nylon slide strips installed in the bearing guide. Next pulled out the old felt strip, and pressed the new one in place. I then put the bottom of the front panel back into the bottom of the dryer front, and while lifting the drum to asure it fit over the bearing guide, pushed the front panel back to a vertical position to mate with the side panels. I then replaced the side panel screws, replaced the top, and replaced the front top panel screws.

Basically, I followed the same steps a prior person posted.
1.Removed the two screws inside the door, on the top part of the opening.
2.Lifted up and removed the top.
3.Removed two screws holding the front panel in place.
4.Held up the drum while removing the front panel. I carefully turned the panel so I could get at the drum bearing without pulling the wires connecting it to the front panel. The wires are not very long, so I had to be careful not to pull on them.
5.Carefully pried off the old drum bearing, using just my hands. It was fairly tight, and popped out just as I started to worry if I was putting too much pressure on it.
6.Checked to see how the old felt was installed, then I pulled out the old felt.
7.Inserted the new felt, being careful to insert one end into a slot the same way the original was installed.
8.Inserted the new slides into the new drum bearing. The gray slides went in at the eleven and one o'clock positions, the white slides went in at ten and two o'clock.
9.Removed a surplus plastic piece from the new drum bearing (where the light comes through).
10.Inserted the new drum bearing, putting the bottom tabs in first, then pivoting it into place. I squeezed it into place to make sure it was tight.
11.Lifted up the drum and put the front panel back on.
12.Screwed the front panel back on, using the two screws.
13.Carefully put the top back on.
14.Screwed in the two screws inside the front door to fasten down the top.
That was it! I started up the dryer and it worked fine. No more squeaking.
About the only thing odd about the repair is why PartSelect sells each slide separately (i.e., I had to order 2 white slides and 2 gray slides). I can't imagine replacing just one, so why not package them in pairs, or maybe even all four in one package.
At any rate, the repair was easy, and a lot cheaper than having someone come out to fix it.

(1) open dryer door (2) remove screws holding door on and put door aside. Probably doesn't have to be done but I think its easier and safer so you don't accidently bend the hinges. (3) remove 2 screws holding top onto front. of dryer located in recess that door sits in (3) pull up on top and remove (from slots by the control panel) (4) remove final 2 screws holding front onto frame of dryer. You can disconnect the connectors from the front panel back to the dryer to make the job easier or work with it without disconnecting. I'd take your time and clean any lint dust, etc. (5) the Drum Bearing removes fairly easy as it is just snapped into 2 slots. insert slids into slots.... make sure you order all 4. Mine were all beat!. (6) replace with new Drum Bearing. (7) I did the lower felt seal as well. Pay attention to how you took the old one off and replace the same way. Remember it stretches to fit into the slots. Put all back together. Remember to front panel has to sit correctly into bottom slots before you screw the top screws back in. All in all.... a simple project, and no more noise!!!!! Great to have websites like this. Easy ordering, quick shipping, great diagrams.

First of all, unplug the dryer. I removed the two screws on the front of the cabinet to remove the top. I then took out the screws to remove the dial panel. Release the belt for the drum through the access hole in the rear of the dryer. Remove the front cover and pull the drum assembly out.

Remove the element disc from the rear of the housing, take note of the the wireing placement. Replace disc and reverse order of disassembly.

This job was easy for me as I am a tinkerer by nature. The hardest part of the whole job was waiting on the part, which by the way was ordered on a Sunday evening and I had the replacement in my hands and back in the dryer running by 1:00 PM on the following Tuesday!

I book marked this website and WILL refer it to others who simply need a repair, not a costly new appliance!

Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on.
This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.

Dear PartSelect.com,

My repair went off without a hitch.

2 screws removed to remove top.
4 screws removed from inside to remove front panel w/ door.
4 screws removed from top of control panel, loosed and popped top right off.
Flathead screwdriver to pop off old plastic panel.
Removed old wire chase (plastic, approx 3” long).
Removed built-up lint, wiped down area for new duct.
Snapped new duct on.
Dryer works like new!!
Took about 35 minutes, most of time spent cleaning up inside of dryer from lint due to broken duct.

One problem was that salesperson sold me on a new felt strip to go with new duct. That felt comes already installed on the new duct so I did not need it. Cost me a few extra dollars I did not need to spend.

Other than that, easy ordering, fast shipment, and parts are as close to original as possible.

Thanks for all your help!

First I really had to hunt for the proper way to get my dryer drum accessible for the repair. With my model it was as simple as removing two screws to take off the top panel (located by opening the dryer door), and then removing two other screws inside the front panel at the top. The front will then be able to swing to the left side (the door switch wires are on this side for this model). Simply remove the drum bearing by gently pulling it off. My slides were in such poor shape for less than 4 years old!! One of them had completely disintegrated! These slides have a small whole on one end which attaches to a small nub at the edge of a slot while the other side just slid into a slot at the other end. No need to even take out the drum!!
The hardest part of the job was to get into the dryer!

The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

The repair was done as follows:

1. Removed the door
2. Removed the two screws securing the top panel then removed the panel.
3. Removed the two screws securing the front panel then removed the panel.
4. Removed the screws securing the left side panel then removed side panel and the two leveling feet.
5. Tipped dryer over on its back (you will want to protect your floor, the four screws that attach the heater unit protrude through the back).
6. Disengaged the belt tensioner and removed the belt and the drum.
7. Removed the three Torx screws securing the drum bearing to the drum and discarded old bearing.
8. Removed the four screws securing the bearing retainer to the heater unit.
9. Removed the four screws securing the heater unit and two sensor wires.
10. Lifted heater unit just high enough to remove bearing retainer. Discarded bearing retainer.

The new drum bearing kit is supplied with self tapping screws. I installed the screws into the bearing parts to tap the holes and then removed them prior to assembly.

11. Installed new bearing retainer to back of heater unit using the supplied screws. Install the four screws by hand, finger tight.
12. Re-attached heater unit and tighten screws.
13. Re-attached sensor wires.
14. Tightened the four bearing retainer screws.
15. Attached new drum bearing to drum using the three supplied Torx screws. I used tape to hold everything together while installing the screws.
Tightened the Torxscrews.

Next I used a vacuum to remove all the lint from inside the dryer. I also used a small plastic putty knife to remove the caked on lint on the impeller blades.

16. Inserted drum bearing into bearing retainer.
17. Installed drum belt and belt tensioner.
18. Installed left side panel and feet.
19. Replaced the two grey and two white slide bearings on the front panel. They just slip onto a small post and slide into a slot.
20. Installed front panel. (Rotate drum to help with installation)
21. Installed top panel and door

PROBLEM SOLVED!

pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.

First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas

Second I opened the door and unscrewed the two screws that go up into the top panel and hold it in place (you will need to get down and look under the top of the door jam to see the screws).

Third I lifted the front of the top enough to remove the two screws holding the front panel on (Use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one you do not want to lose the screws taking them out or putting them back in)

Fourth positioned a chair to lean front panel against so it would not fall over or strain the electrical wires that run to the switch in the door (slide the front panel off slowly supporting the drum with your hand so it doe not drop hard on the motor wires or burners)

Sixth determined the parts I needed and ordered parts from pars select and got them in two days

Seventh when new parts arrived I unclipped the old DRUM BEARING removed the felt gasket, put the felt in the new Drum bearing and clipped it in place

Eighth clipped in the 2 new Dryer Drum Slides and 2new SLIDE WH slides

Ninth Vacuumed out dryer and vent pipe completely

Tenth reassembled dryer being careful to make sure drum was properly aligned as I put the front panel in place and the belt was in the proper place on drum and all the screws were back in place.

Ninth turned gas back on and plugged in dryer

Ten turned on dryer to test squeak was gone

Hints as soon as you hear a squeak look into it and you will probably not have to replace the DRUM BEARING. But if any of the Slides are bad replace them all. Check your belt and felt gaskets to see if they are in good shape. If everything up front is in good shape and it is not the motor squeaking it could be the back drum bearing. Take your time keep your old dryer running for a few more years and save the $40 dollar service call. Do not forget to clean out all the old lint and dust out of your dryer and vent pipes not only will you reduce the risk of fire you will be allowing air to pass through the dryer more easily drying your clothes in shorter time.

Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled

Easy repair. Removed top of dryer and removed two screws to front panel and door assembly. Old front air duct assembly was worn and broken, so it literally fell off the panel. I cleaned the front panel and door assembly of all the lint and dirt, and snapped the new parts into place. The new parts came with the gasket and felt drum seal already installed, to all that had to be done was to snap it into place. Installing the drum slides was a breeze. I simply had to slide one end in the slot, position the hole over the pin, and slide the other end in. I put everything back together, and ran a full cycle for test. Dryer works like new, and run quiet.

I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.