NAV2330AWW Amana Washer - Instructions

The washer is four years old.
This is the second time I needed to replace this same drain hose on this same washer since I had the machine
There is only my wife ant myself maybe, 2 -3 medium size loads per week - why I would have two drain lines develop the same problem in almost the same location in two years is disconcerting
There must be a design problem with the clear plastic hose - Suggest Maytag go to a thick walled rubber hose
The hole is alway inside the washer on the bottom just after the hose bracket - I suspect that something rubbing causing a small pin hole to develop - when the condition first starts it is very difficult to located -There will be water under the washer
Run the washer and discharge the water - to locate

The replacement must be made through the lower front removable panel - and is easier to do if the pump return hose is also disconnected from the pump

Be very carful with the thin wall replacement hose - very light weight plastic - do not pull across the floor of washer - it could easily get damaged

Your company did a get job getting the part to me - The Fed Ex track system was great
I could tell exactly where the delivery was al all times -

I suggest if you are replacing the pump, order the belt at the same time, you must remove the pump to replace the belt.

Needed a medium extension and a rachet a screw driver and a 13mm socket. I used a short screw driver and inserted in it the softer container and lifted it strait up to get the softner container out of the way. I used the medium extension to reach in the auger and loosen the small bolt holding the auger on the machine. Pulled it up and out. Reversed the above procedure and it was set to go. Total time about 8 to 10 minutes. Thank for all the help Kudos to all including Susan W.

Removed old agitator, and installed new one. Very easy.

Unplugged electric cord from wall receptical, pulled drain hose out of wall drain, removed both water hoses from back of washer, unscrewed the metal plate that is around the water outlets from the back of the washer first and then from the valve itself. I pulled the part as far out of the washer as I could and removed the wire connectors from hot and cold side of valve, then used pliers to loosen clamp from around the rubber hose coming from inside the washer making sure not to drop the clamp down into the backside of the washer. Repeated all of those steps in reverse to reconnect the new valve and shizzam! No more leaking inside the tub when cycles are complete! Who says a girl can't fend for herself? Once again..thank you to "PartSelect" for guiding me in the right direction and saving us a lot of money :)

Not only very loud at spin cycle, but started to leak water as well. Pulled lower front panel off and ran a load of clothes while laying on the floor with flashlight watching. Sure enough, water spraying out from outer tub bearing area.
Remove top front panel, sides and top, disconnect hoses and unplug wires at top of control panel, there is a plug in there. Now you should just have base unit and tub exposed so you have plenty of room to work. Next joy is to remove agitator. This is where my fun began. After removing fabric softner dispenser from top of agitator, I could not see bolt holding it on. There was a long plastic rod sticking up which looked like part of the agitator itself, so went online to a repairmans site and they said simply pull that rod out and bolt will be under it. Paid 24 bucks to them and still could not remove rod, ended up going thru slots in side of agitator with a small chisel and cutting it off, then took a 3/4" hole saw and drilled hole in top of agitator, its only about 1/8" thick and what do you know, THERE is the bolt!!!!!!! Removed bolt and out comes agitator. Next, remove cap from outer tub, take 4 bolts out of inner tub, remove inner tub. Next, remove plastic nut from shaft, I tried this with channelocks and could not budge it, ended up splitting nut with chisel and slightly damaged threads on shaft which I cleaned up easily with 60 degree thread file. Be very careful if you use this method. You can use channelocks to reinstall, just clamp on the unfinned part of nut.Take out the lint filter and throw in garbage, do not reinstall!!!!!! That filter is part of the reason tub bearing goes out!! Next, remove aluminum hub from shaft, mine was already loose so was easy. If yours is tight, screw in one of the old inner tub bolts almost all the way in and use hammer and punch to loosen. You can do the same for new one. Next, remove 6 bolts from outer tub and pull outer tub off shaft.Flip outer tub upside down and gently pry bearing out, mine came out easy as was spinning inside tub bearing fit. After cleaning everything I used Scotchseal 800 industrial sealant because bearing fit was loose. I made a clamp out of 1x2 wood and a long 1/4" bolt to hold bearing in tub to prevent it from pushing out, sometimes the sealant will cause this to happen, then I let it setup for 24 hours. Put it all back together, no leaks and SUPER quiet. Be sure and check your bottom bearing too while you have it all torn down, mine was fine. Do not forget to change O ring on spline shaft before reinstalling agitator. As far as the hole I drilled in agitator, just tapped it 1/2" pipe and screwed in a plastic pipe plug. You will need an extension and a 5/8" 12 point socket to do this.

Following on-line instructions for the dis-assembly. Replaced bearing and seals for outer drum bearing and cleaned and lubed assembly.

Removed front panel.
Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.
Rolled drive belt off pulleys.
Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.
Tilted motor to get at pump screws.
Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.
Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.
Set motor assembly loosely in place.
Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.
Re-attached tension springs.
Installed motor assembly bolts.
Re-installed front panel.

** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.

Pulled motor, as the belt will not come off unless you take to water pump off off the motor. Installed new idler wheel, washers, clips and belt. Reinstalled motor.
Works good and hopefully lasts a long time!

Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.

(UNPLUG APPLIANCE FIRST! )Used large flat bladed screwdriver to remove tub damper springs on front of tub.Then remomoved washer pump hoses after placing towel underneath to catch waste water.
Removed four bolts holding motor and pump assembly to tub pulled it forward slightly to remove motor electrical connector, turned assembly over to remove pump ("torx bit")
Intalled new belt being mindful of routing and idler pulley. Seems new belt is slightly longer requiring a little tension spring adjustment might have to replace it also. Washer now functions properly!

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

The replacement was very easy, just one bolt and RR was a snap. However, the first part that came was defective and I called the 800 number, spoke to the rep and the part came the next day. Excellent customer service, and would do business again

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

I followed the online line advise but I wait to add a few important notes. First, clean and use Loctite (blue works fine) on the four sheet mental screws holding the motor assembly to the internal frame. Next, mark the two capasator wire as they will have also to be removed. You probaby won't find the exact spin belt number on PartSeclect's site. By all means don't guess. Call the 1.888.895.1535 help number. They have all the cross-reference part numbers for the correct length belt.