This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
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This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer ...
$139.15
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This is the replacement water filter for your refrigerator. It is white in color with a red cap and is approximately 3 inches wide and 6 inches tall. The water filter reduces contaminants and improves...
This light bulb is a 120 volt, 25 watt incandescent appliance light bulb with a small base screw-in that fits in a variety of appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, freezers, cooktops, or stove...
$17.11
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In addition to the solenoid (115V), this kit also comes with a door strike and an ice door assembly. Please be advised the spring and roll pin are not included with this kit.
$158.73
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This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
$27.65
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This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer,...
$66.72
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This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature.
$71.20
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
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Questions And Answers for MSD2756GES
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Robert
December 16, 2019
Trips circuit breaker after a few hours
For model number MSD2756GES
Hello Robert and thanks for writing.
Overload. One of the most common reasons for a breaker to trip is an overloaded circuit, which simply means that a greater demand for electricity is being placed on the circuit than it can deliver. If the circuit your fridge is on keeps tripping, unplug everything else from it to see if the refrigerator is the problem. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
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Justin
March 11, 2020
Water leaks from freezer door & ice builds up on freezer floor (up to an inch or more in thickness until physically removed). Have seen the heating element in rear of freezer (defroster) heating (turn red & giving off heat). I'm thinking that the defroster is malfunctioning.
For model number MSD2756GES
Hello Justin, Thank you for the question. If the defrost heater is heating normally, it should be good. We suggest checking the drain tube for blockage or build up. It is normal to have the water during the defrost, however it should be draining into the pan under the appliance. We hope this helps.
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determin
... Read moreing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on
... Read moree. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
Removed the Hex head small screw at the middle back of the Back wall of the fridge above the top shelf. Removed the 2 small Hex Head screws that go into the of the Plastic cover upwards into the top roof of the fridge. I ended up with an extra screw so I dont know what I did... The hard part is pushing up on the two tabs, one on
... Read more each side in the extreme back on the bottom of that white plastic cover. You have to pull the coverwhile releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The Right side was easier, I got that side to release and drop down. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a fat screwdriver. Then you have to kinda of Bend the cover to get it to slide out...
Then take out the 2 phillips screws above the light bulbs. the left side one is tricky, need long skinny driver.
Drop assembly down and on the back right is the ADP board. Mine was a bare board but the replacements are enclosed in white plastic that fit in place just fine.
Pry connector off of the board carefully and drop new plastic circuit board case in and replace.
Put a thermometer in a glass of water. unplug fridge for 10 minutes and then plug it in. Give it a few hours.. Everything seems fine. A steady 39 degrees with the Fridge control at a few ticks right of middle. I have no idea what it was before my troubles... But 36 - 41 seems to be what you need.
