MMV5000ADW Maytag Microwave - Instructions

Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.

My son-in-law took the handle off. We saw the problem (Maytag put two tiny plastic posts that crack about once a year. This was the 2nd replacement in 2 years.) When the new part came in my 15 year old grandson put it on easily. This is a no-brainer!

Put s pot under were you take the screw out.If you drop it you can get it easy

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.

Turn off power supply at breaker . Replace old bulb with new bulb .

We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place.
Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this.
The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.

screwed in new bulb

Found info on how to replace handle here. Couldn't have done it without that information! We popped out the black trim on the inside of the door and removed the spring to access the bottom screw. From there it was pretty much easy to see where ever thing fit. Had difficulty getting the tabs clipped in the front of the door.

I pondered getting both the inside and outside parts but went with the outside only. Prying the gasket loose went very easily, and removing the latches went easy too (to expose the bottom screw. I found the inner handle base broken but glued it together, not worrying too much because the real attchment to the door is done with the outer handle screws. I can see why the handle broke in the first place because the screws went in with a lot of torque necessary. I suspect that this weakened the posts so I lubricated the screws and backed them in and out so as not to stress the posts. I think all that is necessary is the outer handle, if you want to save some money. Everything snapped back into place easily and it is done after listening to the wife complain for almost 6 months. Part Select is a great site for appliance repair.

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

Husband replaced the bulb

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!

Spouse just screwed in the new bulb and reinstalled the light cover plate with the two screws. Took under a minute. Works great.