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Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
61-75 of 814
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Bearings making loud rough noise

  • Customer: Gregory from El Dorado, AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to all the others who gave detailed information I was able to replace the front & rear bearings and front seal. I must say it was a time comsuming job but at least I am alot clearer on the quality of clothes washing machines. I do believe I could give a manufacturer / designer some design points after working on this Maytag Neptune. I was able to knock out the bearing shaft that held the stainless perforated tumbler inside the plastic tub/drum by using a #3 LB hammer I reinstalled the old screw in the shaft which held the plastic pully on because this would keep the end of the shaft from being damaged. After several blows it started moving I was afraid I might damage the plastic drum but fortunately no damage was done to it. After removing the stainless steel perforated tumbler here is where it really got interesting. The Hub that held the old seal was shot! pretty much deteorated from corosion it seems. Here is where I could significantly help a manufactured/designer out The bearing/seal hub should have been made out of stainless instead of Pot metal/ aluminum or whatever they made it from. After much cleaning with a small wire brush and vacuming all the debree out of the Tub I didn't have much hub left to install the new seal. Also the three armed Spinner was very coroaded it attaches to the back of the stainless tumbler I removed it from the stainless tumbler and wire brushed it the back side was full of crud, it looked like left over washing powder or soap and Corosion debree it was a job just cleaning it up. I pressed on and on though replacing both bearings front and rear. Thanks to another person who explained the easy way to remove the bearings and race I was able to do so without removing the Drum/Tub as others stated they had to do. The Dremmel and a few Cutter blades did the trick I cut a wide V notch in the bearings and the bearings fell out I then cut through the bearing race being careful not to cut too deeply although if you did slightly cut beyond the race it really wouldn't matter because the front seal will keep it from leaking anyway. Anyway when I cut through the race it made a ping sound and the race pulled away and fell right out of the HuB. The front & rear bearings a definately serviceable and it doesn't have to be a beat/bang ordeal. after cleaning up the hub I tapped the new bearings in place and discarded the metal spacer that went inside the middle of hub. I then brainstormed on how I could install the new Lip Seal upgrade and then it dawned on me that since the inner Hub that holds the seal was so far gone and only enough left to barely hold the new seal in I remembered the ole saying Don't Discard just use JB Stick or JB Quick I used JB Stick to fill in around the new seal because it is supposed to bond to metal and it did just that I pressed the putty in quickly before it hardened bringing it out even with the plastic drum where the origional hub should have been and made the repair to the deteriorated Hub so that the Seal would stay in place it Worked! This Maytag Neptune was given to me by my mother in-law she did not want to wait on the repair after I tried to previously repair the problem with it I just did not delv deeply enough into the problem with this washingmachine at first. I previously removed both Pumps thinking they were not pumping all the water out because the Towels especially were staying soaked. Both the pumps were nasty with alot of debree inside of them now I know that because of the deteriorated Seal Hub on the inside had done the dirty work. The Pumps can be easily taken apart only a few screws and the plastic impeller can be gently pried off also that is where I found alot of particles from the deteoriated Seal Hub I then reinstalled the pumps and they worked fine pumped out the water. Then that is when I noticed it wasn't cycling properly also Ha Ha I thought to myself what else could possibly be wrong with this washing machine? Thanks to Parts Select site I wa

Switch did not turn off dryer when door opened

  • Customer: paul from madison, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

loud noise inside dryer

  • Customer: Terry from Caruthersville, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.

no heat from the dryer

  • Customer: James from blanchester, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I had to find out just how the dryer came apart. Most of the time, the back comes off but with this particular Maytag, it is the front that has to be removed. Once the four screws from either side are removed, the front pops off and the canister that holds the heating element is right there on the bottom. Cleaning away years of lint was fun but the heating canister was removed quickly using two screws and removing four wires that attached to the unit. Once the screws were removed (top back and bottom front) and the wires removed, the replacement unit slid right in without any problems. The regulator on the old unit had to be transferred to the new unit before installation. I closed up the front, put the four screws back in and snapped the front closed and the dryer worked perfectly.

Washer would not drain

  • Customer: William from Jennings, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Since the machine would not drain, I suspected the drain pump. A friend in appliance repair tested that for me and it was good. All one has to do with that is hook a test line to the pump with 120 volts and if it runs it is good. He then told me to see it the mother board which is located in the right upper area above the dryer drum had a burned place at a resistor and to note if the door would not lock. I checked this and the circuit board was not damaged and the wax motor which locks the door was working OK. (This unit is a combo stack dryer and washer) I then suspected the timer because my wife told me that it had been making a grinding noise. The timer was replaced by the one you sent me and it solved the problem. ( My friend really did not want to work on this machine since he had replaced the inner drum and bearing about six months ago and it took all day)Thanks a bunch. The timer came in one day from the time of order.

The moister sensor broke away from it's two fasteners inside the dryer drum.

  • Customer: David from Preston, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed the two fasteners, rerouted one wire using a wire coat hanger, plugged in the new moisture sensor to the two wires and fastened the the sensor in place using the two existing screws.

Bearings making noise.

  • Customer: James from Greer, SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
If you are using the newer style seal be sure the taper part of the seal is toward the front of the machine. Installing it backward will ruin the seal and burn up the motor and or controller. The seal installation tool will fit on the side oppsite the taper. It will require a helper to hold the drum support while torquing the nut on the pulley. Better instruction would help too.

bearing replacement

  • Customer: Frank from Streator, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 15 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I haven't finished the job yet. I was very surprised and very happy with how fast PartSelect got my part to me. I ordered a lip seal kit (maytag neptune bearing replacement) in the morning, and the very next day it arrived at my door. I'm very impressed. I have everything cleaned up and ready for the new parts. I just have to finish.

Thanks for the speedy service. I'll be highly recommending PartSelect.

Frank

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

washer would not drain water

  • Customer: deb from new madison, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
my husband took the old part off. order the new part thru your company...3 days later the part came in. then he reattached thee part to the hoses with the champs and we said alittle pray and i had my washer back

Dryer wouldn't start

  • Customer: SALLY from ANAHEIM, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
We tried replacing the door switch first, still didn't start. Next we tried the thermal fuse and it turned on and has worked ever since.

One of the Baffles came loose.

  • Customer: Robert from Milford, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

Bad Seal Allowed Water to Damage Bearings, makes loud noise in spin

  • Customer: William from New Smyrna Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the extensive instructions others had posted on this site about the need to replace the "non-replaceable" bearings. The hard part is getting the old bearings out of the outer tub as they were very corroded. I left the outer tub in the machine and after attempting to beat them out unsuccessfully, I resorted to using a Dremel tool with a small grinding disc on the end to cut the bearings apart, first cutting through the center and removing the ball bearings, then cutting through the outer rim and edge being careful not to cut to deeply, once the bearings were weakened, they came out pretty easily. Installing the new bearings and putting the machine back together was pretty easy. The machine works like new, so for me it was well worth it, thanks to everyone who shared their experiences so I felt comfortable giving it a try!!

Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

the boot seal holding the drum to the front panel leaked

  • Customer: Melissa from Juno, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
61-75 of 814