MFI2067AES Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.

I removed the drop-down outer housing by gently prying the sides of the two pivot pins at the rear. This gave me move 'room' to grip and slightly rotate then pull the old filter forward and away from the tight suction connection. I was concerned that I would be too forceful for the plastic assemblies and would break something; deliberate motions and a steady thought process on the problem helped disengage the darned old filter!

Removed door and crisper pans.
Removed nuts on left end cap - think there were 3.
Removed nuts on right end cap and one or two on back air regulator attached to right end cap.
Replaced left end cap with new one using reserved nuts.
Carefully removed back air regulator from right end cap.
Attached back air regulator to new right end cap.
Replaced right end cap and back air regulator and attached with nuts.
Carefully inserted pantry door into pin on one side and slightly bent both right and left pins to insert door fully into end caps.
Replaced crisper pans.
That's it.

The switch-out of the water filter was simple with good instructions on the box.
The part was delivered very, very quickly!

I unscrewed the old one and replaced it with the new one. The real benefit was I got the exact part I needed w/o a 30 minute drive and sales people that ignored me. I had gone to the local store the day before and come home with the wrong part because i could not get assistance and the part # I had did not match what was labled on the package. I used the same part # on the website and got exactly what was needed, less that 48 hrs after I ordered it. thanks for the prompt service. we will be a repeat customer

1. Unplugged refrigerator

2. Removed rear silver stainless steel panel on the right rear side of the refrigerator (if you are standing in front of the unit) using a small socket set. The panel is vertically located in center at the rear of the refrigerator.

4. Removed plastic cover over the HV controller board.

5. Unplugged 4 molex connectors attached to the board and carefully pushed on the plastic release locks that hold the board in place as not to break them and removed the HV controller board.

6. Inerted the new HV controller board and plugged in the molex connectors. All molex connectors are of unique size and will only attach to the HV controller board in one location.

7. Replaced plastic cover over HV controller board and attached stainless steel panel with a small socket set.

8. Plugged in the refrigerator.

9. Identified programming code inside the refrigerator.

10. Followed included instructions to enter program code to activate refrigerator front panel.

First remove the front door panel by lifting out the catch tray at bottom. Then the 2 screws it covered. Carefully pry around edges to lift the panel away from the door. Disconnect the small wire harness from the back. There are only three, you'll get it. This will stop the lights and door malfunction. Now you can wait the 10 weeks it takes to get the HV board. Your fridge will still operate, even make ice. It just won't deliver ice or water through the door.
When you recieve the HV board, unplug the fridge from the wall outlet. Remove the metal plate on the back of the fridge. This is held on by four screws. A 1/4 in nut driver is perfect. Then remove the clear plastic door covering the HV board. Pry it off with a screwdriver. Next, disconnect all of the wire harnesses by squeezing the release tabs and just pulling apart. You'll see how the board is held to the fridge. Push to one side while pulling on the other. It comes off easily. Put the new one on re-connect the harnesses, cover with both plates. Plug back into the wall.
Go to the front. Re-connect the small harness to the display board and fasten back to the fridge. Funtime.
Re programming. Follow instructions that came with the new board. It's fairly easy. What they don't tell you is that this process is done with both top doors open.
I took the old board to a friend. (Electronic wiz) He found 2 overheated capacitors. Replaced them for about $1.50. I now have a spare. I think these capacitors overheat trying to run the ice conveyor. It sometimes gets stuck. Keep it clear, you shouldn't have this problem.
Bad design. $2500 unit 3 1/2 years old needs a $200 part? And I fixed it myself. Think what 2 service calls would cost. And why aren't the boards readily available? The manufacturer MUST know there is a need.
Good luck.

Well the frist thing I did was get out the all the paper work and look under trouble shooting.This frig has a list of codes to try to help narrow down what parts might be bad.Well at frist it seemed it was a Defrost Thermastat?Well thanks to PartSelect it showed me right where it was and step by step how to remove and replace it.It took me over 2Hr's,after that I let the frig run all night and the next morning(yep warm frig)not the part I needed,well now Im mad,the local part store said you need a 3in1 jump starter easy to in stall at $50.Can'nt bring parts back no way weather thier opened or not.So get home and can'nt see how this jumper is going to wire up to my compresser?So on to the Web site to get some info,find out that this part gets a thumb's down,it puts out more volt's then needed and kills your compresser the reviews where very help full.So back to PartSelect to see more info,then I spoted the Overload/Relay and went to the back of my Frig and this part just plugs right into the compresser,I pulled it of with pliers and Bingo a burn spot melted right through the Overload/Relay.Ordered the right part the same as the old one.Put the part in and Bam,compresser fired right up.If I only did alittle more home work I could off saved alot of head ach and money.Thanks PartSelect I'll alway's click on to your web site for future parts and advise.

Crisper drawers:
1. Removed crisper drawers from refrigerator.
2. Removed drawer front decoration panels.
3. Unpacked, inspected and rinsed out new drawers.
4. Attached drawer front decoration panels.
5. Transfered vegetables and fruit from old drawers to new drawers.
6. Installed new drawers in refrigerator.
7. Closed refrigerator door.
8. Total time about 15 minutes, no tools required.

Ice & Water filter
1. Opened filter compartment cover
2. Removed old filter, drained into sink and placed in the trash.
3. Installed new filter
4. Bled the water line with ice water tap button (be aware when the air in the line exits the spigot, it create a lot of spray and you may need to cleanup the water that splash out of the bottom of the container used to capture the water during the bleeding process.)
5. Close the filter cover and refrigerator door.
6. Total time about 10 minutes and no tools required.

unscrewed to removed old and screwed in new

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

I just opened up the fridge back panel accessed the old relay/capacitor, pulled it out, replaced with the new one, snapped it back into place, tested it (compressor came on), replaced the back panel and went on my way. Really, really easy repair.

The lid that covers the front of the lower meat / produce drawer hinges upward on two small ( easily broken) plasic pins, one on each side of the drawer. One pin is moulded into each "END CAP" that also supports the drawer glides and glass shelf above. The entire end cap must be replaced to repair the hinge. The left side is easy (it's the only one I had to replace); the right side might be more difficult because the right end cap includes a temperature control.
1) Remove the two produce drawers above the lower drawer.
2) Lift off the front glass shelf support, the glass shelf, and the rear glass shelf support from below the two produce drawers.
3) Slide the lower drawer half way out. Remove the drawer lid by disengaging it from the remaining undamaged hinge pin on the OK end cap. Careful not to break the good one.
4) Slide the lower drawer all the way out, then lift up and towards you to remove it from its glides.
5) Using a 1/4" nutdriver or socket, remove the three recessed screws. Leave the drawer glide alone for now.
6) Pull the front of the end cap up and towards you about 3/4" to disengage it from a small retainig button at the top front. Pull the end cap toward you to disengage the two rear retaining fingers.
7) Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the drawer glide from the broken end cap and attach it to the replacement end cap. Note which end is the front before removing it.
8) Reassemble in reverse order. Again, be careful with the hinge pins.

I removed and replaced the suspect Control board. The problem with the select switch not responding still existed. I then ordered a new “PS2371545 Dispenser Front Overlay – Black”. This cured all but one of the non responsive select switch problems. I notified PartSelect that I received a defective board and they promptly sent a replacement Overlay. This cured my problem. Thank you for your Help with my problem. I highly recommend your company. Bill S.

I firts pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. Un plugged it and removed a metal cover off of the back of the fridge. A clear plastic container was behind the metal pael. Removed the connectors and snapped the pld board out, Put in the new one and reinstalled the cover. Had to get the code number from theinside of the frifge and entered it into the front key pad. This step took a bit of figuring to advance the numbers using the key pad but with some trial and error...Repair done.