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MERH752BAW Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MERH752BAW
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Lower element burned out and needed replacement
Only had to pull out oven racks and remove two screws, pull element out to expose two wires attached. Pull wires off back of element with ease and attached them to the new element. Pushed unit back in place and attached two screws. Very simple job.
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Robert from Prairie du Chien, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Inner glass oven cracked
The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.
Parts Used:
Inner Door Glass Pane
  • Christine from Eureka, NV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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so easy
Frankly I really don't know how to open the top. The "stupid" manual does not explain how to change the surface limiter at all, and I have no clue at all. Luckily for me, the salesperson at the store gave me a hint: just ask anything on Google, there are plenty of videos on how to do, and it did. I am so thankfully to Google, it makes my life so easy.
Parts Used:
ELMNT-SURF
  • Johnny from Gilbert, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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burned out switch
killed power...removed back of stove...removed switch and replaced it..reinstalled back...powered up
Parts Used:
Range Infinite Burner Switch - 8 Inch
  • KENNETH from DEEP RUN, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Oven would not heat
Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Claude from Lakewood, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Oven would not program and would shut down
The "PartsSelect" General discription of the parts funtion helped me to confirm my suspitions that there was some form of temperature registering problem. I whatched the short video they provided on how to change the part out, even though, in this case, it's pretty self explanitory.The part was in my hands a day erlier than promised and in reality, much earlier than I had anticipated from the beginng. It took me all total, 20 minutes to exchange the part out and have the oven in operation again.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Sreve from Deland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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F1 Fault Code - Replace the Temperature Sensor
The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Dennis from Tampa, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Surface element was out
Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Veronica from Midlothian, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Hot burner light went out
Unplugged the range, took off back shield (4 screws) unplugged the old part and plugged the new part in, put the shield back on and plugged the range back in. When you remove the light unit behind the lens after unplugging the two contacts slide it sideways toward you, it is slotted, don't try to pull it straight out or you will break the lens.
Parts Used:
Indicator Light
  • Harold from Russell Springs, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Oven Element Replacement
The PartSelect website was extremely helpful in finding the correct shaped element and the part was delivered within 2 days of ordering. The burned out element was easily removed by removing two screws in the rear of the oven (make sure oven is unplugged) and disconnecting the wire terminals. Hit a minor snag when the wires disappeared into the back of the oven cabinet but they were retrieved with needle-nose pliers. Reconnect the wire terminals to the new element and replace the two screws. I found a work light inside the oven to be helpful. Quick and easy!
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Steven from Massena, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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F1 Error code indicated bad Control Board
First, let me say that the (built-in, electric) oven I was working on was made sold by Kenmore, but the error code and, possibly the repair might apply to many other brands. I was getting a beeping sound and an F1 Error Code on the display of the "clock, timer, control board". On-line research said "you're control board needs to be replaced. I spent days looking for a cheap, new one ($400 for a factory replacement did not appeal to me). Then, I tried "re-setting" the control board. In my case, it took- turning off the power to the oven, turning power back on, pressing and holding "clear". After 30 seconds the beeping stopped. 45 seconds later the error code went away and the oven worked. I opened it up and carefully tested everything with a meter while it was on.It has been working flawlessly for two weeks now. So, the repair took me weeks and also less than two minutes, plus time to give it a check-up. Hope this helps. P.S. I had to say that I used a part in order to post this, I did, but not for this repair.
Parts Used:
Oven Insulation - Back/Bottom
  • Bruce from richmond, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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oven door handle broke off
very carefull as to not break the door glass.
Parts Used:
Door Handle
  • Steve from LOYALL, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Used stove was missing 1 leg.
My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.
Parts Used:
LEVELER-FOOT,SCREW,F/S,NYLON
  • Clarence from Monroe, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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glass top,small burner did not function, open circuit in heating coil element
Remove top oven door,remove two hex head screws located underneath cook top at the front on both sides,slid the range top forward approx. three(3) inches to obtain access needed to unplug the wiring harness, located behind the vertical part of the cook top,removed the cook top,placing it on a padded table with the glass side down,disconnected the three (3)wire spades and unscrewed three screws anchoring heating element to the cook top frame, replaced defective heating assembly with new. Repeated above steps noted above,in reverse order. And yes, all work was done after power was shut off at power panels dedicated oven circuit.
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • James from Sacramento, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Baking Element Broke Into.
Actually my husband did and all he did was unscrew the old element and screwed in the new one. Fast and easy. Besides being easy to fix we got our part with in a day and half. Ordered sunday evening on the web site and it was delivered on tuesday afternoon. Thank you for the fast service will be checking your web site to see if you have other parts that we might need. Thank you again
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Kathleen from Arbuckle, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the MERH752BAW
181 - 195 of 247