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Right rear burner went bad
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.
Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .
This particular model has a bracket that holds the element close to the oven ceiling, so I had to unscrew that as well as the element mounting screws on the back oven wall. The hardest part (not that hard) was the connectors were really tightly clamped to the element terminal. I had to use pliers to help wiggle them off the tips. Recommend doing this very gently yet firmly - I was worried about ruining the connectors or the wires to the oven. The element was deader than dead and actually fell apart in three places once it was detached. The new replacement element arrived a couple days later. Putting it in was a breeze, although the oven is quite dark and I needed Mrs. Handyman to hold a flashlight so I could get the screws in. Oven works fine now.
The Burner was getting too hot and you could not regular the tempature
Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one
mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.
Took 2 screws under front edge of smooth top. Unscrewed ground wire from back of smooth top unit. Unplugged 2 wire bundles, from back. Took bad element out , put in new one. Put back together. About 10 min's tops. Easy peasy.
Electrically tested the element for open circuit and found that it had blown. Bought new element and fitted same. Process is simple on this machine.This job can be done from inside the oven enclosure without having to move the unit away from the wall. SWITCH OFF ELECTRICAL SUPPLY TO MACHINE _ FIRST!Unscrew 4 screws holding plate against back wall of lower oven. Gently pull the element until you expose the the two flat 'spade' electrical connectors,use the pliers to disconnect the connections and then simply reverse the above procedure when re-installing the new element.However, I was a bit unlucky because this element replacement did not fix the original no heat problem. Looked at the electrical schematic drawing supplied with the oven and saw that the only other potential areas for investigation was the lower oven thermocouple and the rather expensive control module located in the upper part of the oven. The thermocouple was working because the temperature of the lower oven was registering and the upper bake element in the lower oven was getting hot. Made some phone calls to Maytag and they were no help at all. "We no longer give service advice over the phone because of potential legal issues". Found a local Maytag repair agent and after quotes that meant it would be just as cheap to buy a new oven, I elected to buy and replace the H3 Control Module. I ordered the unit . It arrived in 24 hours by standard mail. How to replace the module. Again switch off electrical supply to the oven at the breaker unit and pull oven away from wall to gain clear access to the rear of the appliance. Unscrew the top 4 screws holding the rear metal covers to the display unit on the top of the unit. Check that the module numbers are the same before proceeding. You will find that the shipped module does not come with the printed circuit board (PCB). This is OK, the PCB is mostly for the wiring connectors only. Pull the connectors quite firmly by hand, keeping pressure for support onto the back of the PCBU. The connectors are generally color-coded, or have unique slot allignments. You may find that the pcb is strapped with a plastic tie wrap. Cut the wrap first. Unscrew the two retaining screws holding the module assembly to the oven front face and remove the module from the oven. On the new unit, remove the clear plastic film from the display screen and reverse the above procedure to re-install. Keep the module because if this problem should manifest itself again. The module relays can be de-soldered and intechanged for future repairs.
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!