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MER6755AAB Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MER6755AAB
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Right rear burner went bad
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Mark from Loxahatchee, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
138 of 152 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • David from Westford, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
143 of 169 people found this instruction helpful.
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Hot Burner Light always on
Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.

Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Gregory from Cary, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
104 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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Upper broiler element (of upper over) burnt out
This particular model has a bracket that holds the element close to the oven ceiling, so I had to unscrew that as well as the element mounting screws on the back oven wall. The hardest part (not that hard) was the connectors were really tightly clamped to the element terminal. I had to use pliers to help wiggle them off the tips. Recommend doing this very gently yet firmly - I was worried about ruining the connectors or the wires to the oven. The element was deader than dead and actually fell apart in three places once it was detached. The new replacement element arrived a couple days later. Putting it in was a breeze, although the oven is quite dark and I needed Mrs. Handyman to hold a flashlight so I could get the screws in. Oven works fine now.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - Push On Terminals
  • Todd from San Antonio, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
77 of 83 people found this instruction helpful.
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The Burner was getting too hot and you could not regular the tempature
Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one
Parts Used:
Range Infinite Burner Switch - 8 Inch
  • Dennis from Hagerstown, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
69 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
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My God daughter baked a pie and the fruit dropped on the element and burnt it in two.
My husband turned off the breaker, removed two screws and install new element. I was baking again in no time.
Parts Used:
Lower Bake Element
  • Vilita from Jacksonville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
67 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
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F1-1 code
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • charles from marstons mills, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
68 of 86 people found this instruction helpful.
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Needed to replace oven door gasket.
First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.
Parts Used:
Door Gasket
  • Lori from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
56 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven Door Inner Glass Broken
This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.
Parts Used:
Inner Door Glass Pane
  • Shariq from West Conshohocken, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
48 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lower Bake Oven Element not heating
Electrically tested the element for open circuit and found that it had blown. Bought new element and fitted same. Process is simple on this machine.This job can be done from inside the oven enclosure without having to move the unit away from the wall. SWITCH OFF ELECTRICAL SUPPLY TO MACHINE _ FIRST!Unscrew 4 screws holding plate against back wall of lower oven. Gently pull the element until you expose the the two flat 'spade' electrical connectors,use the pliers to disconnect the connections and then simply reverse the above procedure when re-installing the new element.However, I was a bit unlucky because this element replacement did not fix the original no heat problem. Looked at the electrical schematic drawing supplied with the oven and saw that the only other potential areas for investigation was the lower oven thermocouple and the rather expensive control module located in the upper part of the oven. The thermocouple was working because the temperature of the lower oven was registering and the upper bake element in the lower oven was getting hot. Made some phone calls to Maytag and they were no help at all. "We no longer give service advice over the phone because of potential legal issues". Found a local Maytag repair agent and after quotes that meant it would be just as cheap to buy a new oven, I elected to buy and replace the H3 Control Module. I ordered the unit . It arrived in 24 hours by standard mail. How to replace the module. Again switch off electrical supply to the oven at the breaker unit and pull oven away from wall to gain clear access to the rear of the appliance. Unscrew the top 4 screws holding the rear metal covers to the display unit on the top of the unit. Check that the module numbers are the same before proceeding. You will find that the shipped module does not come with the printed circuit board (PCB). This is OK, the PCB is mostly for the wiring connectors only. Pull the connectors quite firmly by hand, keeping pressure for support onto the back of the PCBU. The connectors are generally color-coded, or have unique slot allignments. You may find that the pcb is strapped with a plastic tie wrap. Cut the wrap first. Unscrew the two retaining screws holding the module assembly to the oven front face and remove the module from the oven. On the new unit, remove the clear plastic film from the display screen and reverse the above procedure to re-install. Keep the module because if this problem should manifest itself again. The module relays can be de-soldered and intechanged for future repairs.
Parts Used:
Lower Bake Element
  • Ian from Poquott, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
43 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned terminal block and filter board
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block
  • Joseph from Decatur, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
86 of 177 people found this instruction helpful.
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Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • David from Arlington, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
33 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
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glass cooktop element stopped working
3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Mark from mckinney, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
32 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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8" surface element wouldn't work
Unplug the unit. Open the oven door. Remove the two screws that the top surface is mounted on. Lift the top surface. If you have a hood or a microwave mounted above the stove like we do, you may consider asking a friend to hold the top open while you finish the job. Remove the old element by removing two screws/brackets and disconnecting the wires. Put the new element in place, attach with the screws/brackets, and re-connect the wires.
Parts Used:
Surface Element with Limiter - 2500W
  • Sergey from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
31 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broiler element burned out
1. Turned off the power supply first!
2. Unscrewed the element brackets at the back of the oven.
3. Unscrewed the bracket holding it to the top of the oven.
4. Pulled off the crimp-on leads from the ends.
5. Because you have to stick both arms all the way into the oven to manipulate the leads, I found it easier to move the oven away from the wall and unscrew the back panel. I could then push the ends of the broiler element through the back and make all the connections from back there. Then I pushed the new element back into the oven and reattached all the screws in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - Push On Terminals
  • David from Arlington, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the MER6755AAB
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