This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
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This long oven sensor is also commonly known as a temperature sensor. It is designed for use with ovens and ranges. It is similar to a thermostat; it measures and regulates the internal temperature of...
$34.75
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This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work...
$21.18
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This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
$7.95
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
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This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven. This bake element is for ranges.
The bake element is at the bottom of the oven and supplies the heat for baking.
Unplug the range or shut of...
$141.55
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This is a radiant surface element with limiter, and it works in conjunction with your range. The function of this part is to give heat to the surface directly above it, on cooking area stove top.This ...
$220.32
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This infinite switch is for 8-inch range burners. When an element is unable to produce any heat on a modern oven, the problem may lie with the infinite switch. This switch is responsible for sending p...
$57.14
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This part is for oven ranges, it connects individual wires and protects the device from electrical surges, voltages, and current. With this part, the house power is connected to the range wire harness...
$34.09
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This is cookware designed for use in your range or oven. It is a two-piece dish that is used to grill or cook food while the broil function is on, meaning it can withstand high temperatures. This set ...
$37.51
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This door hinge can be used for the left or right side. As per the manufacturer if the hinges have never been replaced on the appliance, they suggest to replace the door hinge receptacle kit.
$61.99
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Questions And Answers for MER5765RCS
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Mélanie
January 26, 2020
J'allume le four pour avoir une chaleur de 350 et même après 10 min la chaleur est seulemement rendu a 110.
I turn on the oven to have a heat of 350 and even after 10 min the heat is only returned to 110.
For model number MER5765RCS
Salut Mélanie,
Merci pour votre question. Si le four ne chauffe pas correctement, le problème est probablement lié au capteur du four, parfois appelé thermostat du four, et vous devrez le vérifier avec un multimètre. Lors du test du capteur avec un multimètre, le capteur doit être testé à température ambiante et il doit être débranché du four. Vous devrez mesurer la résistance entre les deux broches à l'extrémité du connecteur du capteur. Remplacez le capteur du four si la lecture est inférieure à 900 Ohms ou supérieure à 1200 Ohms. Si le capteur fonctionne correctement, vous devrez vérifier les deux éléments du four, la carte de commande électronique et le câblage entre les pièces pour voir quelle pièce est à l'origine du problème. Nous espérons que cela vous aidera. Merci et passez une bonne journée.
Hi Mélanie,
Thank you for your question. If the oven is not heating correctly, then the issue is likely with the oven sensor, sometimes called the oven thermostat, and you will need to check it with a multi-meter. When testing the sensor with a multi-meter, the sensor should be tested at room temperature and it should be unplugged from the oven. You will need to measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector. Replace the oven sensor if the reading is less than 900 Ohms or more than 1200 Ohms. If the sensor checks out fine, you will need to check both oven elements, the electronic control board and the wiring between the parts to see which part is causing the issue. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Jay
April 9, 2023
THE OVEN WAS ON AT THE TIME AND THEN IT FRAZZLED. IT MADE A LOUD WHIRRING NOISE LIKE A FAN MOTOR AND THEN STOPPED WORKING. THE DISPLAY WENT DARK WITH NO RESPONSE BUT THE ELEMENTS CONTINUE TO WORK. ??????
For model number MER5765RCS
Hello Jay, thank you for contacting us. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest you replace the control board, part number PS11742901, to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening,
... Read morereinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get
... Read more you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
First and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I located the breaker switch for my oven and turned it off. I verified this by noticing that the electric clock on the oven display was no longer powered.
After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place.
... Read more/> Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.
I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.
I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.
I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.
Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!
Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.
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