MDE7600AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.

My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.

I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.

I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!

Removed the door and machine front.replaced old duct assembly with new ,and reassembled front.

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

I replaced the timer and timer dial skirt which was very easy to repair. The dryer would not shut off and the timer would not advance. I could manually use a plier to move the timer and it would shut off then. I replaced the timer and it works well now.

I watched the video

Ordered the three pieces of the dryer dial and replaced the old dial with the new one.

Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.

1 - unscrewed door
2 - made a mess because the directions did not work for my dryer
3 - figured it out = eventually
4 - popped loose the front panel
5 - unscrewed metal bars (that were holding the top down in the front)
6 - lift front like a hood on a car
7 - unscrew the rest of the front until the drum was loose and I could get to the felt strip
8 - glue new strip on where the old strip was = to the front and back plates that hold the drum
9 - put it back together :)

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

removed dryer door 4 screws
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

Had the dubious distindtion of having two switches (start switch & the timer) go bad within 3 months of each other. The start switch has been previously discussed.

The access plate to the controls is secured be 3 phillips head screws and 2 nut-driver bolts.

The switch itself is secured from the front of the machine be two phillips head screws, located underneath the knob which is easily pulled off.

Just replace the wires one-by-one using needle nose pliers on the clips .
A real no-brainer.