MDE6400AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I told my 14 year old to watch the video and fix it. then he did and I was happy.

just replaced filter.

Saved a lot of time by just using needle nose pliers to break the receiving end of latch off of the front of the dryer. No big deal if parts fall Inside, won't hurt anything. Then just pressed new part into front of dryer. No need to remove front dryer panel.latch piece on door was not broken so I left it alone. Took all of about 2 minutes.

Opened the dryer door and took out the two screws holding the door hinges to the frame, and the corresponding two screws on the other side. Pulled the front of the dryer forward and down, and unhooked it from the bottom. Undid the two screws under the front lip of the top to lift the top; it flipped back and rested against the wall. Rotate the drum till the baffle you want to replace is on top, undo the two screws, replace baffle. I also tightened the screws in the other baffles; a couple of them were a little loose. While you're in there, get your vacuum cleaner and clean out the lint and stuff. Then reverse all the steps to put things back together again. There's a YouTube video on how to take the front/top off the dryer which was helpful.

I googled the model number and partselect.com was the first hit. I picked the the correct parts and it even showed me a video on how to replace the parts. Pretty easy to do and saved me from buying a new dryer:-) The repair was done in 20 minutes.

The older latch was removed and the new one was inserted in to the same opening. It was great! We had the new latch within a couple of days after ordering the part. This worked out really well. Thanks!!

Used nut driver to remove front cover/door assembly. Used screwdriver to pry broken latch receiver out of front cover. Snapped new latch receiver in cover. Old striker/latch nub retained. Reattached cover/door assembly.

the repair was a breeze i think it took more time to get the door off than it did to do the actual repair. there are 2 hinges on the door(on the right side) and 2 clips on the left side, after removing these the front of the dryer just pops off. once the door and the front panel are off you need to turn the barrel to get to the side with the broken baffle,it seems if you work from the right side you have a little more room,then just line it up and use a small rachet and socket to tighten it up.this is also a good time to vaccuum inside the dryer to help prevent a lint fire. and that's it very easy

Replaced

replaced both roller supportsstill sqealing need advice to proceed

I replaced all of the moving parts except for the motor. I purchased an Arrow rivet gun for around $15.00 at Lowe's and the O-ring pliers for around $15.00. Both of these tools are needed to complete the replacement of the front glide kit (rivet gun) and the drum rollers ( o-ring pliers). I would consider the job as moderately easy for a do it yourself person. My Maytag is 15years old and I hope to get another 15 out of it, ok maybe I am stretching it, I"ll try till it dies. DB

I pulled it apart and found the bad roller. I did a Bing search on the part number and then went to a Maytag site with parts. I got through the drawings quickly and ordered the part. I was disappointed that US Mail was not offered as a shipping alternative for free.
The part arrived in three days. I again pulled it apart and had difficulty getting the snap ring off. I used a screw driver to eventually get it off. I reassembled the Dryer with the new drum wheel, however, I could not figure out a way to get the snap ring on so I went to the Home Depot (1.5 miles) and got the only snap ring tool they had. When I got home, I had the ring back on in a minute and the dryer back together in about 10 minutes. My wife says it runs like new.

My Husband dismantled the entire dryer to reach the glides on the drum and the belt. After waiting several days for the parts to arrive, he installed new glide kits and the new belt. Unfortunately the parts did not solve the problem. The dryer still makes the noise upon pressing the start button and the drum will not turn. In addition, now the dryer smells like it's on fire! My Husband says it's the motor.. which will lead us to purchase a new dryer.

Removed dryer panels and then diisassembled per instructions in your website.

The drive belt broke at midnight on Wednesday. With 3 teenagers and a mountain of laundry and my wife expecting action, I placed my parts order immediately with overnight shipping.


Since I was already ordering , The door switch had been acting up for some time so it was a good time to replace it. The front glide strips have worn out before and I assumed they contributed to the belt failure.


Your package was at my door when I returned from work at noon on Friday - perfect.

The dryer disassembled with a #2 Phillips and a nut driver in 15-20 minutes.

The door switch was easy to replace once I broke the clips off the old one.

The glide kits required a drill to remove the old pop rivets. To install the new ones it's important that the end of the plastic strip lays flat and the hole aligns exactly with the rivet hole in the front tumbler. Hold the rivet gun against the part tightly so there is no gap between it and the tumbler. This kept the rivet head flat to the plastic glide strip. Last time I had the rivet head pull out of the plastic because I didn't keep the two parts together tight enough when fastening.

When replacing the belt, with the new belt hanging from the drum, I tried to connect it to the motor and belt tensioner as I assembled the drum and front tumbler. After several tries, I realized there was probably a better way. I ended up reaching under the drum from the front of the machine and attaching the belt to the motor/tensioner by feel. With that done, reassembly of the dryer was as easy as disassembly.

We plugged the dryer in, pushed the start button and the mountain of laundry was conquered.