MDE16PSDZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

I watched the video

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

The SE1000 (washer/dryer combo) dryer stop working and I checked the error code: 8E, which indicated a motor/relay circuit problem. I replaced the relay but I still have the problem. I'll have to check the motor but I think it's not available anymore. The belt is OK. The unit is 25 years old so it doesn't owe me anything.
The washer still works.

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

1 - unscrewed door
2 - made a mess because the directions did not work for my dryer
3 - figured it out = eventually
4 - popped loose the front panel
5 - unscrewed metal bars (that were holding the top down in the front)
6 - lift front like a hood on a car
7 - unscrew the rest of the front until the drum was loose and I could get to the felt strip
8 - glue new strip on where the old strip was = to the front and back plates that hold the drum
9 - put it back together :)

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

removed dryer door 4 screws
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps

Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!

Watch the video. Very, very easy

Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.

Took off the front, took thd drum off, removed old belt, placed on new belt ptu everything back together.