MDE16PDAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

There are several parts that will cause the dryer to squeak, drum roller, idler pully and the drum slides. To start, remove the door and the two opposite screws. Pull the front cover down and remove, no screws to remove, this is a snaped on piece. Next, remove the two screws holding the dryer top bracket and lift the top. Take drum support by removing the screws and then remove the belt from the motor and remove the drum. The hardest part was removing the C clips from the roller axle even with the snap ring pliers. Replace the drum rollers and reverse the process to re-assemble. Of course, the rollers weren't the problem even though they were worn out from 20 years of service. I ended up replacing the idler pully and and the idler pully support arm. If I had all of the parts prior to starting, the total time would have been about an hour. I did watch several YouTube videos before attempting the repair. That helped me understand the "how" and made it easy once I started the repair.

Removed door, then brackets holding top panel to side exposed after removing door. Lifted top panel to expose dryer chamber. Rotated chamber to access outside screws holding broken baffle. Removed and replaced baffle. Closed top lid, reattached to side. Replaced door. When reattaching top lid, do not tighten H/W just yet. You'll have to maneuver the hooks into place for the door to reattach. Then tighten when in place.

I followed the Part Select tutorial on Instant Repairman and retrieved the missing screws at the base of the dryer as described in the tutorial and after trying to reassemble the original baffle notice the baffle screw holes were stripped. I decided to fill the holes with a strong glue before reinserting the screw to temporarily keep the machine running until the new baffle arrived as it was just ordered the night before. When the new baffle arrived I decided to hold onto it as a spare if or when the original baffle broke off again.

I ordered two parts for my Maytag model MDE7400ATW, and studied the videos on your website. Both showed front panel access by removing screws on the bottom of the panel. My front was completely different. It seems both configurations bear the same model number.
I thought I had the wrong parts, then I looked for other videos on the website related to other parts replacement and found that some did have the same cabinet as mine, such as the idler wheel, Part Number WP6-3700340
They should make it clear on the website that there are two cabinet configurations and customers may have to look at the videos for other repairs to learn the correct way to take off the front panel. It may save returns from customers who simply can’t open the front.
After all, the repair went well, but the screw holding the heater assembly in the rear is a long reach and I needed a flashlight to see wher the screw needed to go.

The hardest part of this repair was diagnosis. After running continuity tests on the electrical components, removing the heating unit showed a broken filament on the heat coils. The replacement part fit mechanically, but used spade terminals for high voltage instead of the original mounting posts, requiring retermination of the wires. One of the power leads also had to be extended in length. All works after completion.

Really easy to replace. All I had to do was remove the screws on the hinges and two on the other side. Used a nut driver to remove the brackets that hold the lid down. Secured the lid open and used the nut driver to remove the screws that hold the baffel son (two on each) and replace the baffel and secure with the screws. Reversed the the process and was drying clothes my first load of clothes in around 30 to 40 minutes. Process is really easy and I was able to do it by myself

followed instructions on youtube. The only hitch was threading drive belt back on. the video showed from back instead of front.After I was done I noticed an access door in back that would have helped.

I use U Tube watched Video, you have to take apart the dryer, but pretty simple to do. The drum rollers were very easy to install, make sure to have snap ring plyers, installing belt was easy too, make sure to put it back on it the way it came off, mine was ribbed side down on drum. Take a picture if necessary. Getting the belt on the pulley right is the most important part, the rest is just reassembling,

looked at video on your web site my wife and I decided to try it ourselves we are 70 and 71 And I am in a wheelchair just had surgery so we ordered parts. received parts looked at repair video a couple of times and went for it. during process we had some moments of frustration but we went back to video. end result, screech is gone. could not have done it with out video thanks.

Replaced rear drum rollers and drum belt. Would have been impossible to do unless I had watched the video. [Re-watched video 4 times during repair to make sure of what I was doing.] dryer now works fine. Dryer did throw off a lot of lot dryer felt lint during first post repair use. Customers should let it run one empty cycle after repair.

The video from this site is perfect. Unplug dryer, remove front panel, unclip wires, remove next panel and pull the drum out. Replace drum support wheels using snap ring pliers (buy the pliers with changeable tips because the holes in the snap ring were pretty small on mine). Put it all back together. The trickiest part is getting the belt back on...just be sure it's not in the groove around the drum and pay attention to how to get it on the motor wheels. Good luck!

I re-assembled, checked felts, and wear blocks,(good condition). I cleaned lint, removed coins from baffles, corrected several dents(minor), double checked wire condition and routing (good), finished re-installation, checked balance . all was good, and ran two loads of laundry. very quiet! Thanks

Replaced the heating element and both thermostats. Hope that takes care of problem! You tube was a tremendous help through video's.h

Replaced the roller

Removed front of dryer, removed inner cover, slid roller belt off of drum to remove drum. Only tricky part was the two clip rings. My pliers had .070 tips and the ring holes were smaller so I had to run to HD to buy a pair with various size tips, ended up using the .047 tips. Only one wheel was squeaking when I rotated them by hand, but I had ordered both as recommended here so I replaced them both. Put everything back together feeling the belt to make sure it was not twisted and rolled smoothly when I rotated the drum by hand. Works great now. Lots of thanks to this site and all the posters who share their info!