MDC4650AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

1. Fully opened door of dishwasher.
2. With star driver, removed 11 screws from the insde edge of door.
3. Outside front panel of door then is separated from inside panel slightly to again access to, latch assembly.
4. Verified that replacement part matched existing part.
5. Lifted out damaged latch assembly and disconnected the two electrical leads by gently pulling on the insulated connectors.
6. Connected the electrical leads to the coresponding connections on the new part and replaced in the reverse order of above.
7. Total time for repair was 15 minutes.

I had to replace the faucet in the kitchen sink orignnally. However since I use a porteable dishwasher, its hose connects to the kitchen faucet. The new faucets aerator is threaded differently than the old so that the dishwasher adapter would not screw in. I had misplaced the adappter kit that came with the dishwasher last year, so I ordered the adapter from partselect.com. when the part came a few day it was a simple as screw out the old aerator, screwing in the new adapted and then putting the modified aerator from the old faucet back in so that the dishwasher can be connected as needed.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

As others have described once you slide the dishwasher out and tilt it for access you simply remove the discharge (use something to catch the water), torx screw that secures the bracket to the unit, and twist counter clockwise until the pump is free from the drain tub. Reassemble in reverse order

The repair was as easy as 1, 2, 3.. 1) Open box that the new dishrack was shipped in from PartSelect. 2) Take old and dry rotted dishrack out of my dishwasher. 3) Place new dishrack into my dishwasher.

Less than 5 minutes.

1. Removed 4 screws holding latch and controls module to the door.

2. Went back to your site to check how to get the control module to come loose from the door. I gave it a good upward hit with my hand and it came off. There was wiring that prevented the module from coming completely free. But there was enough room to get to the latch.

3. Used a screwdriver to fish out the broken latch parts.

4. Inserted the new latch and gave it a tap to spring the pivot pins into place.

5. Replaced the 4 screws that hold the latch and control module to the door. Job done.

removed the inside cover to the door,7 screws, removed the latch assembly, replaced with new parts, back in service.

First I removed two bottom plates (two screws on each) Then I pulled dishwasher out about six inches. That's as far as it would go because I did not disconnect the water and drain hoses. That was enough to remove the broken cable and collect the disabled spring. I then reattached the new cable to the spring and reworked them into position. NOTE: There is a right and left cable and spring set-up. I used the "good" side as a guide. I then pushed the dishwasher back into place and replaced the two bottom plates.

Best part, i go this thing on my hands right of way..Great place, great price...Highly recommende

Remove the 4 screws at the lower panel, turn power off to dishwasher, remove single 1/4 attaching screw from float switch, open the door remove the old float assembly. Make sure you install the float in the machine first than side the switch over the end of the float before screwing it back in.

I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker. Sitting in a chair in front of the opened dishwasher with the partially opened door resting on my knees, I removed the 10 screws lining the inside of the door (setting them in order on the cabinet above -- 2 are different length so this helps keep them in order.
I tilted the inner cover on the door up (which is what the screws had been holding). With the door not fully open because it was on my knees, I was able to position the cover so that I did not have to remove the connection to the soap dispenser.
The two middle screws removed earlier were the screws that held the latch in place, so the assembly was already loose at this point. I put a black mark on the assembly to mark the side that the black wires were attached. Then with the pliers removed the plugs that were connected to the switches on either side of the assembly. Then marked the replacement assembly with the black mark on the same side as the one removed. I attached the plugs to the the replacement assembly using the black mark as reminder for which side was which.
I lined up the latch on the door where it goes, lowered the lid (lifting the lower edge over the base a little), lined up and started the latch screws (middle 2), then started all of the other screws and then tightened them all. Closed the lid and tested the latch. It was closing correctly now. I turned on the electricity and tested to make sure all was now working properly.

Not a bad repair once you diagnose the problem. Took me three tries to figure it out. Just make sure you follow the instructions. I used an allen wrench to hold the motor in place while tightening the part onto the motor shaft, this way I didn't have to remove and flip the dishwasher to do the repair. The good news is the replacement part I needed was metal instead of plastic, thus I should never have this problem again. I don't understand why it was plastic in the first place but all of my appliance problems seem to be made to fail after several years of service.
Repair was

First and foremost, turn off the power to the dishwasher at the breaker panel. Next, open the door and remove all of the Torx screws along the door edge, except the bottom two. The inner skin will open enough, and there is sufficient slack in the wires, to change out the latch assembly without completely removing the whole inner door skin. Next, remove the wire harness plug from the right switch and then insert it onto the right switch of the new assembly. Do the same with the wires for the left switch. Note, you may need a pair of pliers to remove the wire connector from the switches. Place the switch back in place, lining up the screw holes properly, and replace all of the Torx screws. Turn the breaker back on and you are done.

Not only could I get the part from PartSelect.com quicker than I could from Sears, the total cost with shipping was the same as Sears wanted for just he part!

First I opened the breaker on the dishwasher removing power from the unit. Then I removed the Torx head screws on the cover on the back side of the front door. Then I pulled off the stainless steel sheet metal panel which exposed the door latch. Then I unplugged the electrical connectors to the two micro switches on the assembly, next I plugged in the connectors on the new latch assembly and postioned the latch back on the mounting holes. Replaced the stainless steel sheet metal and put the screws back.

I removed all the screws from inside of the door. I disconected the two wire harness and removed the door latch. I replaced it with the new latch. Put all screws back in the door. Every thing works good. It was vary easy to do.