MDBH945AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

1. De-energize appliance at your electrical circuit breaker panel.
2. using torx # 15 remove the back cover of the door. Careful not to pull on wiring between door and cover.
3. Remove the cover to the circuit board to access the control panel "ribbon"
4. carefully and gently pry the plastic tab which secures the ribbon to the circuit board. The ribbon will be released and then remove the control panel two mounting screws on either side.
5. Don't worry, this takes longer to read than to perform the required steps.
6.Now install the new panel, do not tighten the screws until you have all the screws in just snug.
place the ribbon connector into the slot at the circuit board, secure it with the tab by pressing gently until its secured.
7. Completely tighten all control panel and circuit board cover screws, place back cover and ensure that the bottom end goes over the edge of door, careful with those foam splash seal and align all screw holes, replace screws, again do not tighten until all screws are in place.
8. Turn appliance circuit breaker back on and see that the LED lights come on on the control panel. Run a test load and enjoy the feeling of a job well done.

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

Not being very computer literate, the most difficult part of the entire venture was navigating your web site. But I finally found the part I needed. I paid on line with a credit card, and received the part within a few days. I popped it in the dishwasher, and it took three days before my son noticed it.
He was surprised and I was proud to say " I ordered it on line."
All's well that end's well.
I would difinately use your service again.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

Used torx bit to remove screws on door and removed the back of door. Removed wiring from switches (2) on broken latch and removed latch. Plugged in switches on new latch and placed latch in position. Screwed back of door into place and that was it! Very simple task and new latch looks and feels much more sturdy than old one.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

Turn-off the dishwasher power at the circuit breaker. Open the dishwasher door flat. Remove the 11 screws around the perimeter of the door using a t-20 torx bit (available at any hardware store). The latch assembly is held on by the top middle two door screws. Pull latch assembly out from top of door. Remove the black and white cable assembly connectors from the latch assembly making sure to note which side each color is on. If you have trouble sliding the connector off, use a flat screwdriver carefully to pry it, but do not pull on the wires. Install cable connectors onto new latch assembly making making sure the black and white cables are on the correct sides. Position the door at a 45 degree angle and place the latch assembly into position while putting the white inner door over it. Reinstall the 11 torx screws around the side of the door being sure the screws are snug, but not overtightened. Test the operation of your dishwasher. The new latch assembly seems to be built better than the factory original.

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts

The repair is simple open the door and remove the perimeter screws and lift the door panel up. Be careful of attached wires. The handle only requires that you remove two electrical connectors and reconnect to the new latch handle and realign it with the screw holes in the door panel. The seals are not as easy to change they are attached with spring clips that I had to snipe through to get the old seals off. The new seals did not come with new spring clips, so I flattened the clips and reused them, they did not hold as tight, but seemed to work. Then just reinstall the panel.

1. Fully opened door of dishwasher.
2. With star driver, removed 11 screws from the insde edge of door.
3. Outside front panel of door then is separated from inside panel slightly to again access to, latch assembly.
4. Verified that replacement part matched existing part.
5. Lifted out damaged latch assembly and disconnected the two electrical leads by gently pulling on the insulated connectors.
6. Connected the electrical leads to the coresponding connections on the new part and replaced in the reverse order of above.
7. Total time for repair was 15 minutes.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

As others have described once you slide the dishwasher out and tilt it for access you simply remove the discharge (use something to catch the water), torx screw that secures the bracket to the unit, and twist counter clockwise until the pump is free from the drain tub. Reassemble in reverse order