MDB8600AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The replacement was easy but it's frustrating that the control panel would go bad so quickly (just over 5 years old). There are about 10 torx head screws (I think T20) to take out in order to open the door. Then about 5 head head bolts to detach the control panel from the door. Finally a thin ribbon electrical connector from the control panel to the cpu board -- also attached to the door.

Reassembly was pretty much the reverse -- very straight forward.

I wasn't certain the control panel needed replacing as it seemed there might have been a blown breaker in the system somewhere. However, I stumbled on the instructions for sales floor demo mode (press extra rinse 5 times quickly). That showed all the lights working, so it didn't seem to be an electrical problem. You turn off demo mode by pressing the start button. That didn't work, so it seemed pretty clear the button was the problem.

1. De-energize appliance at your electrical circuit breaker panel.
2. using torx # 15 remove the back cover of the door. Careful not to pull on wiring between door and cover.
3. Remove the cover to the circuit board to access the control panel "ribbon"
4. carefully and gently pry the plastic tab which secures the ribbon to the circuit board. The ribbon will be released and then remove the control panel two mounting screws on either side.
5. Don't worry, this takes longer to read than to perform the required steps.
6.Now install the new panel, do not tighten the screws until you have all the screws in just snug.
place the ribbon connector into the slot at the circuit board, secure it with the tab by pressing gently until its secured.
7. Completely tighten all control panel and circuit board cover screws, place back cover and ensure that the bottom end goes over the edge of door, careful with those foam splash seal and align all screw holes, replace screws, again do not tighten until all screws are in place.
8. Turn appliance circuit breaker back on and see that the LED lights come on on the control panel. Run a test load and enjoy the feeling of a job well done.

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

Used torx bit to remove screws on door and removed the back of door. Removed wiring from switches (2) on broken latch and removed latch. Plugged in switches on new latch and placed latch in position. Screwed back of door into place and that was it! Very simple task and new latch looks and feels much more sturdy than old one.

First I removed the screws and disasempled the plastic covering that held the slide in place. I then replaced the rack adjuster and replaced the screws.

This was exciting for me as I was not about to wait for my husband to do it as I had a load of dishes in the sink just waiting for it to be done!

It was amazingly simple and the hardest part was remembering where in the rack it was to be replaced! I was back in commission within 15 minutes (It would have been 10 if I had placed it right the first time!!

Turn-off the dishwasher power at the circuit breaker. Open the dishwasher door flat. Remove the 11 screws around the perimeter of the door using a t-20 torx bit (available at any hardware store). The latch assembly is held on by the top middle two door screws. Pull latch assembly out from top of door. Remove the black and white cable assembly connectors from the latch assembly making sure to note which side each color is on. If you have trouble sliding the connector off, use a flat screwdriver carefully to pry it, but do not pull on the wires. Install cable connectors onto new latch assembly making making sure the black and white cables are on the correct sides. Position the door at a 45 degree angle and place the latch assembly into position while putting the white inner door over it. Reinstall the 11 torx screws around the side of the door being sure the screws are snug, but not overtightened. Test the operation of your dishwasher. The new latch assembly seems to be built better than the factory original.

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts

1. Fully opened door of dishwasher.
2. With star driver, removed 11 screws from the insde edge of door.
3. Outside front panel of door then is separated from inside panel slightly to again access to, latch assembly.
4. Verified that replacement part matched existing part.
5. Lifted out damaged latch assembly and disconnected the two electrical leads by gently pulling on the insulated connectors.
6. Connected the electrical leads to the coresponding connections on the new part and replaced in the reverse order of above.
7. Total time for repair was 15 minutes.

The repair is simple open the door and remove the perimeter screws and lift the door panel up. Be careful of attached wires. The handle only requires that you remove two electrical connectors and reconnect to the new latch handle and realign it with the screw holes in the door panel. The seals are not as easy to change they are attached with spring clips that I had to snipe through to get the old seals off. The new seals did not come with new spring clips, so I flattened the clips and reused them, they did not hold as tight, but seemed to work. Then just reinstall the panel.