MAV7600AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I found the water pump bearings were going bad from humidity. I replaced the pump with a new one and it runs quiet again.

Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt.

Unlug the AC cord,open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back (I removed the back cover also) and the little hose going to the basket. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING (DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Install the new ring, tighten the screws and put the tub back in connecting everything back up and use the 6 new springs. It really isn't that hard to do.

First unplug the washer for the electrical outlet. You will need to tip the washer back to get to the bottom of the machine. There you will see the belt that drives the transmission and the water pump from the motor. Remove the belt and set it to the side. Then you will need to gain access to the top side of the machine by gently using a screwdriver to pry the front of the top up off the front panel on both sides then hinge it back out of the way. Use a nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside edge of the front panel and remove the front panel. Once the front panel is off you will see the water pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the machine. Remove the hose clamp on the water pump with the flat head screw driver or nut driver and use a pair of pliers to remove the compression clip on the water pump. Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump in place. Reverse the entire process to put it back together. This job was very easy and I was only without a washer for 2 days because of partselect.com.

unplug the washer. Removed the top of the washer by removing the hold scews and tabs on the upper back. Place a scew drive under the front and pry up to release the snap tabs. Then the front panel by removing the two screws on top and lift the panel up to expose the motor at bottom front. Remove the motor cover (plastic)and motor from the base, replace the pulley on the shaft (you may need to break or pry the old pulley off) install the new pulley making sure it is all the way up the shaft locking the tabs into the shat groove. Reinstallmotor to the base. To replace the belt, tilted the unit backwards to access the pulleys from the bottom and installed.
Note: it ios easier to install the belt fully on the two smaller puleys attcahed to the drive motor and pump and then wrap as much as you can around the larger drum pulley. Hold the belt in one hand and turn the drum pulley clockwise with the other and the belt will follow and install. reverse steps to reassemble.

back panel,belt two hoses,three screws, $100 dollars for the part!! pump is a molded part with a bearing insertion, is made in USA ! I'm guessing around 7 to 10 dollar manufacturing cost. I'm thinking that kind of mark-up is only exceded by the pharmacutical industry. I'm looking to buy a used machine for parts!!

The washing machine was full of clothes, water, and detergent when it decided to stop working. I pulled the washer away from the wall (I recommend using two people for this), and removed the back access panel (two screws at the top and bottom). With the washer plugged into the wall outlet I used a multimeter to test electrical distribution through the system. Power goes directly to the Lid Switch from the outlet and is disrtibuted to the washer from this point. When I physically engaged the Lid Switch power was not distributed to the system. This told me that the switch was bad. I unplugged the washer from the wall outlet, then removed the Lid Switch.

To remove the Lid Switch, disconnect the wire connection by pulling straight up, pull back then up on the Lid Switch and it should slide out.

Keep in mind when this happened it was 8 or 9 pm, no supply depots open. I don't recommend an amateur performing this, but in order for me to get the clothes washed I made a jumper wire, composed of two wires twisted together at one end, (wires need to be of equal or greater gauge). I inserted the twisted end of the jumper wire into the black wire port of the Lid Switch wiring connector, then inserted one of the wires into the red wire port and one into the yellow wire port of the connector. Making sure the jumper wire did not make contact between the red and yellow, I plugged in the washer. The washer completed the cycle.

Installing the Lid Switch, reverse removal.

Removed the top by using a wood wedge in each front corner, then removed the two top screws to remove the front panel. Removed the back panel, hoses and belts. Disconnected the balancing springs and removed the tub and transmission as one unit. Then I disconnected the agitator, removed the plastic and metal nuts to remove the tub. Then I replaced the upper tub bearing. Then I disconnected the pulley and brake assembly to get to the lower bearing and replaced it. I reversed the steps to re-assemble.

Pulled out washer, laid on front, removed access panel and the pump was right there. Three screws with 5/16" nut driver, pliers to release hose clamps, remove hoses, remove belt from pully, remove old pump. Install new pump with three screws, two hoses and clamps, finally put belt on new pulley and other small pulley and used screw driver shaft to pull belt on to large pulley. replace access panel, put washer back in place. It literally took me more time to clean the floor under where the washer was than to change the part. Piece-o'-cake.

i removed the plastic cover.then i disconnected the harnest.i then removed the 2 screws and took the motor out. i took a hack saw blade and made a mark in the old pulley. i then took a screw driver and put it in the crack and tapped on it and the old pulley fell apart. i then put on the new pulley and reconnect the motor. i then reconnect the belt.my washer is working great.it was so easy and i save myself some money in the process.

First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.

It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit.
Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.

1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring

2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top
* unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine
* tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center
* lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop
* remove the auger
* remove the white top from the tub
* remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub
* now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers.
* remove the tub

3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down
* remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws
* remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws
* now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw
* remove the brake guts and replace with new

4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew

5) re-assembly is opposite of removal*
* the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer

My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!

03-2011

Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!!

Removed the old pump,- disconetced the two hoses, and 3 retaining screws, sliped off the drive belt,. installed the new pump! simple!

I put the washer on the spin cycle and could see that the tub wanted to move. While it was trying to spin I leaned the washer forward and saw that the motor was spinning and the belt was turning, but the tub wasn't. Did some reading and it was the thrust bearing. I ordered the part and replaced them (very easy, follow the directions that come with the set). After install, the tub would spin.