MAV6200AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the 2 screws on the front panel after unplugging the unit. Removed the 2 screws on the safety cover and removed the wiring coupling. Removed the 2 bolts that was holding down the belt adjuster. Fed adjuster around pully wheel after removing belt. Installed new motor and re-assembled in reverse of disassembly. Plugged in unit and tested motor. Unit still operating satisfactory. Wash about 5 loads everyday. Large family

Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!

I used a putty knife to disengage the clips that attach the top of the washer to the front panel. The top will lay back without having to hold it however, I didn't trust it to stay up on it's own so I used a bungy cord and straped it onto a wire rack that hangs on the wall above my washer. Next I removed the two screws, one on each side, located on the inside of the front panel near the top of it. Then I gently pulled the front panel towards myself so that I could lift it off of the clips located at the bottom of the panel. The pump assembly is located at the front right corner inside of the washer. I disconnected the two hoses that run to the pump assembly and using my ratchet, I removed the 3 screws that hold the pump assembly in place. There is a belt on the bottom of the washer that goes around three pulleys, one of which is the pump assembly pulley. After I removed the pump assembly, I took the belt and laid it to the side. I then installed the new pump assembly. After I put everything back together, I gently tipped the washer over on it's side as far as I could and reinstalled the belt around all three pulleys. I started with the pulley on the left side and then the pulley in the middle and finally, the pump assembly pulley. I have washed a total of seven loads of laundry since I did the repair and have had no problems.

I thought I was going to need to replace the leaking washer machine. Water was every where and after checking the main sewer drain was ok I lifted the washer and found the water pouring out the bottom when i put it on.
After finding out how to get the whole top open and the front panel off I was able to locate the source of the water leak on my washer machine. The cause was split in the plastic hose that goes from the tub to the pump. After the new hose arived I was able to replace it within 10 minutes. So far so good. Thank you Part Select.

First tip front of washer up about six inches and block. Removed belt by holding the old belt to the side of the big pulley and turn big pulley on opposite side with the other hand. Old belt was dirty, black and some carbon on floor. Cleaned up. Put belt around motor pulley and water pump pulley. Hold belt in track of big pulley. Turn big pulley with opposite hand until belt goes around the big pulley. The motor has a spring that maintains the tension.

Wife thinks everything is back to normal. Get a cool drink out of refrigerator while she carries on and thinks you are a hero.

Special note: Be sure water is out of washing machine. There are instructions on the internet but I have owned Maytags for over forty years and know belt replacements are occassionally replaced.

I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.

Opened the top of the washing machine, removed the two screws and the front cover removed the agitater, drum and outer tub. replaced the bearing and seals and reassembled.

Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!

These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

I unplugged the electric power cord and disconnected the two water hoses and the drain line from the wall. It was messy as water leaked from the disconnected hoses. I tilted the washer forward and leaned it against a bench for support. This exposed the bottom of the washer from the back. I removed the v-belt from the three pulleys. The motor mount was spring loaded making it easy to remove the v-belt from this pulley first. After removing the v-belt, I then removed the 4 screws to the small plate on the back of the washer to gain access to the water pump. I then removed the two water hoses from the water pump using vice grips to squeeze the clamps and slide them off of the hoses toward the water pump. After removing the two hoses (a little messy again), I removed the water pump by using a socket ratchet to loosen the four bolts. I replaced the water pump with the new pump and then reassembled everything in reverse order.

I found your site and looked at possible "symptoms" of the problem. Went to my washer propped it up with a 2 x 4 and manually spun the belt and sure enough the pulley on the drain pup was shot and grinding metal on metal. Ordered the new pump with pulley and a new belt (might as well change it when I had the thing in pieces).

1) Opened the front of the machine and then propped up the machine.

2) Placed a pan underneath to catch the water that remained in the pump when I disconnected the two hoses attached to it.

3) Removed old pump with socket wrench

4) Replaced with new pump purchsed from you all.

5) Reconnected the two hoses.

6) Installed new belt.

7) Closed up machine and BAMM! works like it was brand new!

You all Rock! Cost of parts and 20 or so minutes of my time is a lot less than calling a repairman or replacing the machine!

Thanks for the help!!!

This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.

Unplug the A/C plug from outlet.
Turn off the hot and cold water valves.
Disconnect the hot and cold water inlet hoses from the back of machine.
Raise top cover of washing machine by inserting flat screwdriver about 3 inches in from right and left front corners and push against clips. (look in gap between top cover and cabinet to locate exact location of clips.
With 1/4 inch nut driver remove 1 screw holding water valve to cabinet.
With 1/4 inch nut driver remove 1 screw holding water valve to bracket.
Place new water valve in bracket and tighten screw.
Noting orintation transfer wire harness from old valve to new.
Reattach valve bracket to cabinet with one screw.Lower lid.Reattach hot and cold water hoses to valves(note hot and cold). Turn on water, plug in a/c cord. Test to make sure water valve shuts off, and check for leaks where you connected hot and cold hoses.
Congradulations, you saved $160 labor and a discount on the part.


Now remove

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.