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Models > MAH55FLBWW > Instructions

MAH55FLBWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH55FLBWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH55FLBWW
121-135 of 204
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Stinky Neptune front door seal-Mildew

  • Customer: James from Lincoln city, OR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement was not complicated. It took me more time because the details are not in the videos and I had to do it twice because I didn't get the seal on correctly the first time. I used the Neptune videos available on you tube for the basics. Use the "inspecting front door lock wax motor" video for a start, but be sure to take off the top front crosspiece also for easier access to the spring that tensions the seal retainer cable. You don't have to disconnect any wires, just lay the door lock assembly gently to the left of the washer. The old seal comes off very easily, using the front loader door seal video. My washer was an early one without the drain tube so I had to get the drain tube and clamps separately and drill out the tub nipple to the left below the seal. I used the biggest drill bit I had that fit inside the nipple. The tub is plastic and very easy to drill. Most of the plastic shavings will come out toward you if you drill slowly and don't push too hard on the drill. I also used my shop vac to try and get out any other shavings. I used dish washing liquid as a lubricant to help put the seal on and used too much. It doesn't take very much. The spring that tightens the inner seal clamp/cable was very hard to attach and it did require two locking pliers [vise-grips] and quite a lot of effort. You have to hook one end of the spring to the cable that wraps around the seal, hold the other end of the cable with locking pliers, the free end of the spring with locking pliers, and stretch the spring to hook it to the free end of the cable. There are some other methods described in various forums and one of them might work better for you. When I was an auto mechanic we had a special tool that helped attach springs like this on drum brakes. I was sure wishing that tool was still in my tool chest but it was not. This was the most difficult part for me, getting the cable and spring all in place and stretching the spring without dislodging the seal and having to start all over.I didn't get the seal aligned correctly the first time and had to do it over after putting ever thing back together and washing a load of clothes. I could have avoided that by carefully inspecting the seal before I put everything together. When you put it back together the end of that red or green nylon line that looks like weed eater line goes under the soap/bleach dispenser bezel on the top so you can manually open the door if the wax motor goes bad and it won't unlock.

Water leaking from the rubber front door seal.

  • Customer: William from Sewickley, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I follwoed the detailed instructions provided via the Part Select web page and instructional video. This information was very helpful. I printed the step by step paper instructions and had them available at the washer. They were very easy to understand. By doing this work myself I saved a $100.00 repair service call and installation cost and another $30.00 on parts. This resulted $130.00 ++ savings and 30 minutes of my time. Thanks for the great help and guidance!!

broken drive belt

  • Customer: Truc from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

leaking gasket

  • Customer: Richard from Brownstown, IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Follow the suggestions on the rope tied to the side of the washer, then mechanically lever the spring open. Only change I would incorporate is using a block of wood to keep the wash drum from moving over as you pull on the rope to open the spring up. GREAT AND EASY FIX!

washer was leaking water all over the place

  • Customer: DONNA from WALKER, WV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
removed the door &the top took the tightener off the bellow took old one out put new one on and clean all parts and put it back together works like a new one love it.

Mildew, water in bellow and under tub

  • Customer: Ivars from Fairfax, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Set my iPad on the dryer and played the video. Could not have done it without it. Putting spring back on was the hardest, fell off once. Took that long because video connection timed out and had to get another coffee. Part delivery was quick. Found the drain tube out of the bellows was clogged. If it wasn't for the mildew on the bellows could havw fixed the problem if I had known about a drain at the bottom of the bellows.

The washer stop draining. Had a "ND" Error code.

  • Customer: Alan from Kent, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Parts Select suggested the fix with a 99% rating that it was the drain pump motor. When I got the old pump out it was clearly not working. It took 4 days to get the part, but after getting the part it was just plug and play.

Inner door panel cracked

  • Customer: Barbara from Purdys, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the door from the washer and removed the screws holding the broken door panel to the outer door. Removed the clips that hold the screws in and transferred them to the new inner door panel. Removed the drain pipe and gasket (I assume that's what it's called) by unclipping the bottom from the door. There is another metal ring that had to be unscrewed. Then we screwed it to the new door panel and installed the gasket and drain pipe. Attached the new inner door panel to the outer door and screwed the door to the washer. Fairly easy repair.

Getting a slight "thunk" or "chirp" when the drum shifts direction

  • Customer: Emil from Bonney Lake, WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!

Impeller came of driveshaft

  • Customer: Stephen from Belfast, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the pump as per video.

leak in tub to pump hose

  • Customer: Philip from Parma, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
removed front of washer. loosened two hose clamps. replaced hose. tightened clamps. replaced front cover.

Horrific Clanging Noise from Bearings' Disintegration

  • Customer: Cary from Spokane, WA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to Partselect's accurate parts' lists, and installation video, along with others' posted installation trials, gained confidence to attack problem on my own (coupled with repair (or should I say, "replace")men's advise to trash machine). Bearings had basically disintegrated, causing inner tube to be out-of-alignment, and rub against outer tube. Would just like to add to what others' contributed, that I found Plumber's Tub Drain tool to work very well at knocking-out larger front bearing (was perfect fit to ID of bearing). Had to Dremel cut out rear bearing, but quite accessible from rear of machine. Otherwise, alot of cleaning from 13yrs. of useage. Thanks for everyone's assistance!

Seal failed then bearings

  • Customer: Rob from Manhattan, KS
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Basically the problem was the bearing replacement. Although you cant get them on PartsSelect, I got the seal kit on the site. The seal kit is easy, the bearings took two days and an air hammer to extract them and a big hammer to get them back in. All in all it was worth it,

Seal failure causes bearing failure

  • Customer: Brian from Shoreview, MN
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I had pretty much the same experience as others. Difficult parts were 1) removing the inner tub, I used the blunt side of an axe with a 4x4 after several hammers would budge it. 2) removing the old bearing, like others I had to cut them out using a Dremmel with a steel cutting disk from Home Depot ($15) Wear eye protection as sparks are flying! Cut out the inner race and the bearing fell out, then cut V notches in the outer race, trying not to cut into the bearing seats on the tub although I did have a couple small cuts, then hammered it out from opposite side. Installed the new beaings and metal sleave between (what is the sleave for?). I tapped both bearing up against the seat shoulder but with the sleave in between there's not enough room and the new bearings turned real hard as the sleave is binding them. (Minor panic). A couple taps with hammer and chisel on the inner bearing from opposite side to push it out created enough room and the bearings turned real easy. Suggestion; plug the drain opening in the bottom of the outer tub with a towel or sponge to prevent pieces of the old bearing from falling in there. I saw one ball roll down in drain, so I tipped the machine on its side and several balls washed out plus pieces of the old bearing. I had a towel laying over the top but that wasn't enough, needs to be stuffed down in the opening. Re-assembly was easy and the machine runs perfect. The wife is very impressed. Total investment approx $85 (kit, bearings and cutting disk) plus about 8-10 hours vs $800 repair or new machine.

Load noise on spin cycle.

  • Customer: John from Needville, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was simpl, took about 3 1/2 hours +. Used on line video for dismantal information & reassembling. Hammered out old bearings and seals. Installed them with big bolt and old bearings, I used the old bearings as pushing tools for new bearings. The large bolt and nut pulled the bearings in to place at the same time. Installed seal and reassembled machine. I moved from Jester to King at home.
All Instructions for the MAH55FLBWW
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