MAH5500BWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I took the door off, front panel, soap dispenser(to lift the top out of the way)and took off the cross braces on the front of the machine. I pealed the door bellows off and took the drain hose apart; there was much gunk and debris to clean out...maybe something here was clogged? Removed all the snap clips and took the front of the tub off;the tub seal seemed good, but lots of grime/gunk build up.I cleaned all surfaces, put the new tub seal on,and put it all back togther. The hardest part was working the snap clips back on; I worked a few on both sides, top and bottom, and then filled in the rest. The machine has been working fine for a month now, no leaks:)

Of course I looked at you tube to get the instructions on how best to do the job. It was very helpful. Getting the front bearing out was the major issue. It was so corroded that I could not get it out with a hammer and punch. I had to build a bearing puller which I copied from the you tube video out of a 3" schedule 40 pipe. After that the repair went very smoothly. Putting on the bellows cable and spring assembly took two of us. Also putting the clips that held the inside drum on took two of us. One of us used channel loks to squeeze the two drums together while the other installed the clip. I had trouble identifying the tube seal part number. I phoned for help and the customer service person was very helpful and ordered me the correct part. Thank you

Ordered part from PARTSELECT.COM, super fast shipping, next day actually, via fed ex. Part was exact replacement with no surprises. Swapped out internal parts snapped door lid cover in and was doing a wash in 15 minutes start to finish.

First I removed all the screws, which removed the door. Once the door was off, was able to de-install all the parts of the old door and install on the new door. The engineers that design this, made it to be able to replace easily. Inner door part was replaced in less than 30 mins. The most amazing part was I order the part on Monday and the door was fix on Tuesday before 2:00. I was amazed. Thanks

First I remove the 2 screws that hold the door on then put it on the table on a towel not to scratch the door and unscrewed the inner door and changed it out easy stuff.

Unscrew the screws holding the soap/bleach/fabric softner in place. Unscrew the door hinges.Unscrew the white plastic clips that are to the right of the door. These hold the front of the washer in place. Once these are removed, you can pull the front of the washer away from the door opening. It leans out from the top and you can remove the entire piece from the clips that hold it in place at the bottom. Then you can unscrew the screws to the top left and top right that hold the top of the washer in place. Once these screws are removed, you can lift up the top of the washer and lean it back revealing the water inlet valve w/thermister. All the electrical connections are easy clip off/clip on. The hose clamp is the typical screw type.

after cutting my hand I installed masking tape around the opening on the back of the washer. All went well after that

Repair went just as video on this website indicated. Reinstalling the cable clamp was the hardest part.

Using the video tape (YouTube URL) provided, I went step by step and replaced the bellows with no problem. No water leaking..the toughest part was putting the spring back on, it takes some coordination and muscle.

I followed the instruction of using a tie strap to secure belt to drive pulley and turn pulley to place belt on pulley. Worked great. Done in no time.

After watching the repair video, The job became very easy. Thank you parts select, the only thing i didn't like, was the shipping cost. thought it was a little high for such a small and light part..

Working from back of machine, slip old belt off drum pulley. Loosen 1/2" nut to remove drive motor from outer drum assembly. Work motor toward front of machine, while holding carefully, to slip out of old isolators. Remove worn isolators. Replace with new isolators (lip towards front of machine). Re-install motor with the nut/washer all the way up against the stop for the least amount of pressure possible on belt tension..tighten bolt. (Believe me.. when you try to install the belt, it will still seem like the belt is not the right size and way too tight.).. It is, however, the correct belt.
Have a zip-tie ready.
Engage the new belt on the motor shaft pulley. The belt grooves should line up with the motor shaft grooves towards the end of the shaft. Grip the drum pulley and rotate counterclockwise while guiding the belt onto the pulley. At about 12 O'Clock, zip-tie the belt to the pulley.. then rotate ccw until installed.. (about 6 O'Clock). Snip off the zip-tie and your ready to go.

Followed a video

Pretty straight forward. After disconnecting the power. Remove the back panel, locate the drain pump. Disconnect the hoses [some water will still be in the hoses, have towels and dry vac ready] Remove protective plastic from the top of the pump and remove the electrical connection reassembled with new drain pump.

The replacement of the drain pump was very easy. I will not go into detail, just follow the video installation provided on this site and you will have no problem.

I decided to replace the drive belt since I was into the back of the washer. The video on this site was spot on, however I did have to apply a lot of effort putting the new one on. My old belt was stretched out considerably and at first thought I had a wrong replacement belt. Number on the belts confirmed it was correct. Just had to walk the belt on the larger pulley and it will fit.

My washer is running like a new one!