Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > LW7503W2 (PLW7503W2 A) > Instructions

LW7503W2 (PLW7503W2 A) Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LW7503W2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LW7503W2
16-30 of 123
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Washer began to leak about a pint of water per load. Water was stained black by residual belt abd brake dust the water was picking up as it dripped throught the machine.

  • Customer: Sheldon from North Yarmouth, ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions that came with the hub and seal kit, which were pretty well written but not terribly detailed. Once I got into the job though, I felt confident that the instructions told me all of the important information--the rest was common sense. If you're reasonably handy you can pull this off.

The instructions call for some specialty tools, which I was able to do without by using the following:

• Drive Bell:
The old drive bell slid right off without a puller--I think I got lucky on this one.

To install the new drive bell I used a long 1/4-20 bolt, nut and fender washers. I spun a nut way up the bolt then slid the fender washers on. I threaded all of this down into the transmission output shaft until it bottomed out. Then I turned the nut down to push the washers and drive bell down until it hit bottom. Then I backed out out the bolt and washers and installed the shoulder screw.

• Hub:
I used a generic wheel-puller I already had to get this off and it came off with little effort. I put the old shoulder screw back into the top of the shaft for the point of the puller to sit on so it wouldn't mess up the transmission output shaft or threads (obvious, I know but a bad thing to overlook).

Drive Bell Seal:
• This calls for seal tool #293P4. I'm sure the seal can be installed by hand but it happened that the two extension tubes from my Shop-Vac were exactly the right diameters to seat the bottom and top parts of the seal.

• Lint filter:
The instructions just say "remove lint filter" but it was pretty stuck on and seems pretty fragile so I took it easy. I used a small scrap of 1/8-inch plywood to slide under the edge until it popped off.

The instructions say not to use the four rubber washers on the bolts that attach the inner tub to the hub if the machine has a stainless tub. Mine has a stainless tub and the original bolts had rubber washers on them so I used the new washers when i reinstalled the inner tub.

I found the 3M-800 Scotch Seal industrial sealant at a local appliance pats distributor. I researched it and it seemed like a specific enough product that it wasn't worth risking the whole job to use something I already had like Lexel. I learned that the reason it doesn't come with the kit is that it requires Haz-Mat handling, which would probably double the cost of the parts kit. One set of instructions I read from Maytag said that "the customer can use the machine after 15 minutes". But the sealant tube says it fully cures in 1 - 3 days. So I squirted out a ribbon on a piece of paper when I did the job so I could monitor the drying time and split the difference, allowing it to dry overnight. Seems as though that's long enough.

I did the job step-by-step and it seems to have worked. The first load is running right now and so far it's dry as a bone.

One thing I noticed is that some of the parts seem to have been updated over the original ones to improve performance. The drive bell and associated seal have a more sophisticated mating relationship that seems as though it will provide a better seal than the original.

Good luck

Seal on water pump was leaking

  • Customer: Douglas from Spring, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the washer to prevent shock while handling motor. Remove the front botton access panel. Move the drive belt off the idler pulley to provide slack to move belt off the other pulleys. Note position or take picture of belt position before removal to aid in getting it in the correct position for reinstallation. Move the hose clamps up the hoses far enough to remove the hoses from the pump. A towel is handy here as there is still a little water in the hoses and pump. Remove the four bolts holding the motor bracket to the bottom of the washer. The wiring to the motor does not need to be disconnected. Rotate the bracket with motor and pump attached so that the assembly is horizontal and the pump is to the right hand side. Use the torx bit to remove the bolts holding the pump in place. Install the new pump, being careful to get the drive belt in the proper position while doing so. Do not over tighten the bolts on the new pump since it is plastic. Rotate the motor bracket back to its original position and install the four bolts. Get all four bolts installed loosely before tightening any fully to insure the bracket is aligned properly and none of the bolts will be in a bind. Once the bolts are tight, put the drive belt on the small pulley and then work in around to position on the large pulley. Position the belt back into its position on the idler pulley. Put the hoses on the pump as far as they will go then slide the hose clamps back into their original position. Replace the bottom access panel and plug the washer back in.

motor would't work

  • Customer: CARLOS from MIAMI, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed the 4 screws that hold the motor in place.pull the motor out and disconnected the wires ,remove the belt from the pulley, when motor was out the work was very easy 3 more bolts that hold another element in place and the rest was piece of cake ...done thanks to parts select for send me the right part at first time i recomended and i received my motor in just 3 days.congratulation

Leaking pump, torn belt, washer 24 yrs old

  • Customer: Peter from Westport, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Please read the comments from other people before you start the repair. The hints are great, and save you time.
Removing the old pump from the shaft with two screwdrivers
by gently prying it off the shaft was the best idea. Once the pump is removed from the motor, it is a snap to replace the belt, and tension pulley if necessary.
The metal surfaces are sharp inside the machine, and I suggest placing a good light inside the machine so that you can see where the belt goes. Follow Joseph's instructions from Goldsboro NC to a tee, and your repair will be a great experience.
Peter
Westport, Ma

Weak cold water flow

  • Customer: Nicholas from Parrish, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I thought hoses could have been clog, turned out that the flow valve was bad
One screw to take off the value holder itself, removed the two hoses that bring hot and cold water to the valve, removed the water line that brings the cold and hot water to the washer (nothing more than a hose clamp) Was then able to remove the valve holder. Simply unbolted the value from the holder, replaced with new valve and reversed processed to re-install.
Pretty easy, about minutes

Wouldn't agitate or spin.

  • Customer: Eric from Akron, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
This was my fist time attempting to fix a washer. I had to guess on the length of the belt since the model number on the machine had worn off and the belt had snapped in a way that made determining the length difficult. At first, I ordered a belt that was too small. I realized this after I was unable to remount the motor stand onto the bottom of the machine. This model had the motor assembly right in front of the unit. It was easily accessed after removing the panel on the front of the machine. It was easy to remove the 4 screws (they were all visible) on the motor stand. After that I was able to disconnect the pump belt. This machine has seperate belts for agitation and the pump. The pump belt must be removed in order to install the agitator belt because they both are driven by the same shaft and the pump belt is positioned on the bottom. There is also a tension wheel for the agitator belt which might be easily overlooked. Make sure to install the agitator belt so that the tension wheel is on the outside of the belt's path. The whole job is fairly easy if you have the right part to begin with. If you have to force the belt onto the wheels, then you probably have a belt that is too small.

Would not empty water

  • Customer: James from Houma, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I suggest if you are replacing the pump, order the belt at the same time, you must remove the pump to replace the belt.

Washer would not stay in balance during spin cycle

  • Customer: Darrell from Midwest City, OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the 7 springs holding the tub in place. To do this you have to take the two front bolts out the holds to front panel on the machine. Remove the front panel and you will see the bolt in each front corner holding the top in place. Remove these. Then remove the 8 bolts at the bottom of the three remaining sides of the machine. After removing these you can move the sides out of the way enough to remove each one of the 7 springs holding the tub in place. Then one by one replace the springs and put the sides back on in the order they were removed. Hopefully, if you are having trouble keeping your machine in balance in the spin cycle, this will fix your machine as it fixed ours.

Water leaking when water level is set above medium. Wash tub spinning when during agitation cycle.

  • Customer: Martin from Grayslake, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Three brake pads are located just above the drive pulley and space symmetrically around the brake wheel. Remove the one screw per brake, slide brake out of brake wheel and replace with new brake. Apply silicone grease to new brakes before installing. Tools: 5/16 boxed end wrench.

Washer leaking water from the bottom.

  • Customer: Donald from Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front panel.
Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.
Rolled drive belt off pulleys.
Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.
Tilted motor to get at pump screws.
Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.
Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.
Set motor assembly loosely in place.
Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.
Re-attached tension springs.
Installed motor assembly bolts.
Re-installed front panel.

** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.

The thin walled plastic drain line got a pin hole leak

  • Customer: WALTER from Holualoa, Hawaii, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The washer is four years old.
This is the second time I needed to replace this same drain hose on this same washer since I had the machine
There is only my wife ant myself maybe, 2 -3 medium size loads per week - why I would have two drain lines develop the same problem in almost the same location in two years is disconcerting
There must be a design problem with the clear plastic hose - Suggest Maytag go to a thick walled rubber hose
The hole is alway inside the washer on the bottom just after the hose bracket - I suspect that something rubbing causing a small pin hole to develop - when the condition first starts it is very difficult to located -There will be water under the washer
Run the washer and discharge the water - to locate

The replacement must be made through the lower front removable panel - and is easier to do if the pump return hose is also disconnected from the pump

Be very carful with the thin wall replacement hose - very light weight plastic - do not pull across the floor of washer - it could easily get damaged

Your company did a get job getting the part to me - The Fed Ex track system was great
I could tell exactly where the delivery was al all times -

Leaking water while washer runs

  • Customer: John from Roswell, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Biggest trick is getting the agitator off. It seems like it is bolted on. I used a piece of braided cotton cord to run under both sides of the agitator and just pulled real hard. It WILL pop off.

Next the old seal will also seem to be attached. The edge is firm but not bolted. A small prybar will help.

Easy repair to do, but it did not fix my problem. I decided to get a new washer rather than go through further disassembly.

replace rubber drain hose adapter

  • Customer: Frank from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.

leaking from pump

  • Customer: James from Montgomery, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.

pump seal leaked; retaining ring sprung

  • Customer: Richard from Soldotna, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.
All Instructions for the LW7503W2
16-30 of 123