LRFC21755TT LG Refrigerator - Instructions

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Part arrived with a broken window . I was able to use the old window from the broken part . I installed the new part in under three minutes .

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

Ordered part from part select. Received part with out instructions. It took only one screwdriver for 1 screw removal and then removing cover to replace switch. Pretty simple

viewed video and followed instructions was a piece of cake

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Pops right In

Part Select had a great video which made the repair easy, using a putty knife to start removing the freeze door gasket. Once removed the install is simple just snap the new gasket into the track, but start at the corner. Other company's have a video requiring you to remove the entire freezer compartment out of the appliance, unnecessary waste of time and labor.

Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.

I actually watched a YouTube video for LG refrigerators. The hardest part was taking the wire harness out. Mine was really stuck in there. But got it, put the new switch in and viola it worked. Yay!

Followed instructions online

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.

Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.

The refrigerator had the above code and when I check on YouTube, it explained that the defrosting was not working properly. It was taking more than 80 minutes to defrost. I ordered the Temperature Sensor first and it was not the issue. I also ordered the Defrost Temperature fuse or the Thermistor. I had to defrost the refrigerator first by using a portable heater to get it done quickly. (See Youtube on how to get to the Defrosting Unit inside the freezer). The Thermistor was the wrong part. I called the Partselect and explained that the part with the heating element is one piece. (Heating Coil Thermistor or Heating Coil). By replacing that piece solved the Error Code issue. I listened to Youtube for the instructions on how to replace the Heater Coil. So if you see the Error Code dH F, you need to replace the Heating Coil, which comes in
one piece and sits on the bottom of the Defrost Element.