LRFC21755ST LG Refrigerator - Instructions

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Part arrived with a broken window . I was able to use the old window from the broken part . I installed the new part in under three minutes .

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Pops right In

Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.

Followed instructions online

The 2 minute or so video was not exactly matching the model that we had but the instructions were very good and important. The switch was a little difficult to get out from the side of the refrigerator.

Covered the sidewall with tape to protect. Pried the switch out with knife blade and removed electric plug with needle nose pliers. placed plug in new switch and pushed switch into the hole in the side wall. Took about five minutes.

1. Unplug the refrigerator (to avoid shock) 2. With one screwdriver pry open the switch on the side facing the door to a gap of about 1/8 inch 3. Insert a second screwdriver into the gap to press the plastic tab back slightly and this should release the part. 4. pull the part out and unplug it, you may have to pry back some small tabs on the sides, 5. Plug in the new switch 6. plug in the refrigerator the light should come on, if not tighten the connection 7. Insert new switch back into its slot, it should snap in place. Done!

Easy install, small screwdriver under back of old switch push out and pull out with small pliers. unsnap the old plug and install new. YOUR DONE

Read previous tips
Taped off area around switch to protect surface
Used putty knife to extract switch
Used screwdriver to separate connector from switch
Plugged in connector
Pushed switch assembly into opening
Removed tape

Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.