LNC6766A71 Admiral Washer - Instructions

Disconnected hoses and poppped open the top of washer with a flat screw driver from the front. Removed screw holding the water inlet value with a nut driver. Diconnected wires and internal hose from the old valve and attached them to the new valve. Install new valve in place with nut driver. Clossed the top. Reconnected hoses.

Unhook water lines after shutting off water, unplug power cord.Then move washer out into open space for easy access. Used flat tip driver to push in the spring clip to open the top of washer. Flip top up and had wife tilt the washer back. Once bottom is exposed took belt off the motor pulley. Let washer back down. Use the socket wrench to take out two ( front corners ) screws. Tilt front panel back and lift out off the clips . Water pump is front right corner. Use socket wrench to take out the three screws that form a triangle. Lift out the pump. Have something to catch water from pump . Use pliers to remove the two clamps spring from the hoses . Remove both hose from the pump. Then install new pump in the reverse order and close up washer in reverse order and put belt on . Replace washer in it place reinstall water line and lastly the power cord needs tobe pulg in. Now test the washer.

Followed the video

After inspecting the brake and installing the new pulley/bearing kit the washer still would only spin slowly. Discovered that if the washer agitates at all in the spin cycle then the transmission is shot. So washer was replaced with a new one.

Followed your excellent video instructions to change out the motor.

Very easy pop-ed up the top from front used my Duroc screw driver removed screw removed lid slid hinge on slid lid back in place attached screw. Make sure you get screw tighten and snug. Job Done!

put a total new transmission total kit on.

Opened back panel. With pliers, moved the retainer clamps. Used a flat screwdriver to pry off hose from tank. procceded to remove hose from pump. Put new hose on and replaced hose clamps. Tested with a small wash cycle, no leaks. Job done.

I was struggling for more than an hour trying to put the E clip on with the thicker washer as recommended then gave it up. I tried again with the thinner washer and still can not get the clip fully seated in place (only one end got into the groove). Frustrated, I decided to tap the other end with flat screw driver and hammer. The clip seems to be deformed but rested in the groove. Checked the brake adjustment and it was on the min mark. I did not dare to remove it for adjustment, and there is no thinner washer to adjust anyway. The washer is still working OK now after 3 loads. Other than that I am really happy with the purchase. Supper fast shipping. Very helpful instruction video. Only I am not really a handy man as my wife often encourages!

Release top of washer with putty knife (2 clips), unscrew Phillips head on hinge, replace hinge, replace screw, close washer top.

Be prepared - the repair kit lacks many needed items. Two tools are missing. This includes the spanner wrench that you need to remove and then tighten the hub shoulder that threads onto the transmission shaft. Also, the tool to remove and replace the hub springs is missing. The instructions only cover the triple lip seal replacement. These get you to the point the spin hub and outer hub are removed. The instructions do not take you through removal of the transmission from the mounting brackets. This is tricky! The brake spring applies 200lbs of force. I used three C-clamps to slowly back off the bottom plate. Two more major items to be aware of. The order you tackle removal of the hub springs (6) and the outer tub is important. I found the only way I could remove and replace the hub springs was with the outer hub removed. So, during disassembly, remove the outer hub then the hub springs. During assembly, replace the hub springs, then replace the outer hub. The final zinger - no new bolts were provided to bolt the spin hub to the hub shoulder. On my washer, the original hub shoulder took a self threading stainless bolt that was 1 1/8" long. These are not through holes. They are closed. So, the depth of the hole is critical. The new shoulder required 1" long bolts. So, when I used the original bolts, they never seated and the hub worked itself loose after 4 or 5 loads. Off to the hardware store for 1" bolts. Luckily, the old bolts at least threaded the holes for me, and I could use standard stainless bolts. Otherwise, who knows where I would have had to go for self-threading bolts. All of these issues ended up creating a 9 hour repair.

everything pretty much just unbolted real easy. the parts come with a nice set of instructions. you don't need to use the special hub removal tool. just take a small piece of wood and smack it on the ear of the hub to the left counter clockwise. it might be tough but just keep smacking it till it comes loose. then install it in reverse. simple job. you also might need some big vise scrips to get ahold of the springs real good to get them off and back on...

The repair itself was not complicated: it was just taking off the old springs and putting on the new ones. Where it became difficult was, rather than having the appliance on a platform, I was doing it from the ground. This made it a bit hard to get some leverage to stretch the new springs into place, especially in the back. I would recommend that you have a second person there to push the tank toward the spring you are replacing. This helps reduce the distance you need to stretch the spring. If you ARE in a position to get it up on a platform, that would probably be best and would make the job much easier.

I found the instructions on www.ehow.com about how to remove the shell of the washer so I could find what was going on with the washer and why it would smell like burning metal. I found it was the Drain Pump with Pulley Assembly P/N: PS2347187. It was easy to replace and saved $$$$ from having to purchase a new washer or call a repairman or women.

pURSUANT TO THE VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTSELECT, I DISCONNECTED POWER CORD, HOT AND COLD WATER HOSES. ALSO, REMOVED DRAIN HOSE FROM DRAIN PIPE CONNECTION. LAY THE WASHER ON ITS SIDE REMOVED THE PULLEY BELT THEN FOLLOWED THE VIDEO TO REMOVE DUST COVER, C-CLIP, CAM, PULLEY, THRUST BEARING ALONG WITH ASSOCIATED WASHERS FROM THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT.INSTALLATION WAS THE REVERSE AS SHOWN IN THE INSTRUCKIONS PROVIDED IN THE KIT.