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LNC6762B01 Admiral Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the LNC6762B01
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washing machine was making alot of noise
I found the water pump bearings were going bad from humidity. I replaced the pump with a new one and it runs quiet again.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • David from Boca Raton, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
560 of 570 people found this instruction helpful.
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One of the plastic hinge pins brroke
I used a flat screw driver to push in on the releases so I could raise the top of the machine. I then used a torx tool to remove both parts of the hinge, and then used a #2 phillips screw driver, on the new screws I'd also ordered, to re-attach both of the hinge parts. Every thing went just as anticipated.
Parts Used:
Lid Hinge Pin Lid Hinge Screw
  • Allen from North Little Rock, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
512 of 515 people found this instruction helpful.
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Pump was making a grinding noise
The pump is located behind a small panel on the back, lower left side of my washer. It's attached to the bottom frame with 3 screws. It has two hoses attached, each with one spring clamp. Lift one side of the washer and slip the drive belt off the pully. Release the spring clamps on the hoses with a pair of pliers and remove the hoses. A small amount of water will drain from the hoses and pump when removed. Remove the three screws holding the pump to the frame and remove the pump. Install the new pump in the same position. Reattach the hoses, replace the belt, and reinstall the cover panel. That's all there is to it.
Parts Used:
Washer Drain Pump Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • Ranse from Layton, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
295 of 317 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer jumping in spin cycle (white flakes under the washer)
Unlug the AC cord,open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back (I removed the back cover also) and the little hose going to the basket. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING (DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Install the new ring, tighten the screws and put the tub back in connecting everything back up and use the 6 new springs. It really isn't that hard to do.
Parts Used:
Snubber Ring Suspension Spring
  • David from Butler, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
288 of 301 people found this instruction helpful.
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Load Grinding/Rubbing Noise in Rinse and Spin Cycles
First unplug the washer for the electrical outlet. You will need to tip the washer back to get to the bottom of the machine. There you will see the belt that drives the transmission and the water pump from the motor. Remove the belt and set it to the side. Then you will need to gain access to the top side of the machine by gently using a screwdriver to pry the front of the top up off the front panel on both sides then hinge it back out of the way. Use a nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside edge of the front panel and remove the front panel. Once the front panel is off you will see the water pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the machine. Remove the hose clamp on the water pump with the flat head screw driver or nut driver and use a pair of pliers to remove the compression clip on the water pump. Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump in place. Reverse the entire process to put it back together. This job was very easy and I was only without a washer for 2 days because of partselect.com.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • Doug from Port Richey, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
139 of 151 people found this instruction helpful.
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The belt and pulley on the drive motor broke
unplug the washer. Removed the top of the washer by removing the hold scews and tabs on the upper back. Place a scew drive under the front and pry up to release the snap tabs. Then the front panel by removing the two screws on top and lift the panel up to expose the motor at bottom front. Remove the motor cover (plastic)and motor from the base, replace the pulley on the shaft (you may need to break or pry the old pulley off) install the new pulley making sure it is all the way up the shaft locking the tabs into the shat groove. Reinstallmotor to the base. To replace the belt, tilted the unit backwards to access the pulleys from the bottom and installed.
Note: it ios easier to install the belt fully on the two smaller puleys attcahed to the drive motor and pump and then wrap as much as you can around the larger drum pulley. Hold the belt in one hand and turn the drum pulley clockwise with the other and the belt will follow and install. reverse steps to reassemble.
Parts Used:
Motor with Pulley
  • Michael from Warminster, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
151 of 189 people found this instruction helpful.
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EXCESSIVE Banging, shaking and squeaking while on Spin Cycle
1)Start with empty washing machine.
2)Disconnect Hot, Cold, Power and Drain lines
3)Move machine to open area, open top by popping 2 front retaining clips.
4)Remove Front panel, remove small clear water level hose at lower rear of tub.
5)Remove small Rear access panel, disconnect large tub drain hose from pump and drain into small container, about 4 cups of water will come out.
5)Remove the 6 suspension Springs.
6)Place two large towels next to washer and tip machine onto its side slowly.
7)Remove drive belt from bottom, and slide out wash tub assembly thru top opening, be Careful not to damage large Plastic drive pulley on bottom of tub.
8)With tub upside-down, remove drive pully small plastic cover in center, remove E-Clip and remove pulley.
9)Slowly loosen snubber ring retaining bolts a few turns, DO NOT Remove, just loosen enough until snubber is free to move around.
10)Remove snubber ring by walking it around the retaining ring and install new snubber.
11) Clean machine cabinet and clean machine base where snubber touches with alcohol or Windex.
12) Reassemble in reverse order and Do Not Forget to reattach the small clear Water level sensing HOSE to the tub before closing the top.
13)Place Drive Belt onto the 2 small pulleys First, then slowly turn large pulley while walking belt onto it.
14)Reconnect machine to utilities and test run on small load to ensure no leaks and propper operation.
15)Enjoy Quiet free operation once again :)
Parts Used:
Single Front Panel Clip Suspension Springs - Kit of 6 Snubber Ring
  • robert from simpsonville, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
127 of 137 people found this instruction helpful.
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bearing on water pump siezed
back panel,belt two hoses,three screws, $100 dollars for the part!! pump is a molded part with a bearing insertion, is made in USA ! I'm guessing around 7 to 10 dollar manufacturing cost. I'm thinking that kind of mark-up is only exceded by the pharmacutical industry. I'm looking to buy a used machine for parts!!
Parts Used:
Washer Drain Pump
  • kevin from rochester, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
119 of 133 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer out of balance most of the time
watched online video help. removed washer panels. removed washer springs. disconnected hoses. pulled tub out and placed on top to expose. snubber ring. replaced snubber ring, placed tub back into proper space. replaced old springs with new set. reconnect hoses. Washer ran perfect. Was about to spend $800.00 on new washer but only spent $43.00 in parts and a few hours labor and good as new
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long Suspension Spring Hook Suspension Springs - Kit of 6 Snubber Ring
  • Matthew from Ephrata, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
77 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water would overflow from the top of the machine
The repair was very easy. Remove a few screws, switch wiring one at a time so I put them in the correct position and replace. The hose replacement was easy at the swicth but a little more difficult at the lower end of the tub due to limited space. Overall an easy job and now it works fine!
Parts Used:
Water Valve - 60/40 Pressure Switch Hose Water Level Switch
  • Peter from Manorville, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
78 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
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Skreeching noise during spin cycle
Pulled out washer, laid on front, removed access panel and the pump was right there. Three screws with 5/16" nut driver, pliers to release hose clamps, remove hoses, remove belt from pully, remove old pump. Install new pump with three screws, two hoses and clamps, finally put belt on new pulley and other small pulley and used screw driver shaft to pull belt on to large pulley. replace access panel, put washer back in place. It literally took me more time to clean the floor under where the washer was than to change the part. Piece-o'-cake.
Parts Used:
Washer Drain Pump
  • Robert from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
64 of 65 people found this instruction helpful.
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The unit was leaking during agitation and spin cycle
I had to remove the back lower panel with a nut driver (approximately 8 screws) as well as the front panel which is removed by poping the top of the unit removing 2 screws and swinging the panel down and lifting off.
Remove the bleach fill cap (pry off). You'll need a long extension on your ratchet to remove the bolt holding on the agitator. Next remove the inner tub which is held on by 4 bolts. The outer tub is a bit more difficult. You will need to remove all 4 shoulder screws from the top as well as the six that anchor it to the spring assembly around the bottom skirt. Since it was 7 years old I had to muscle the outer tub and rotate it to get around the inner tub transmission flange.
I'm not sure which of the 3 parts were leaking so I ordered and replaced all 3.
I don't know if it was necessary but I scraped and cleaned the aluminum flange plates where the gaskets seated.
At this point it was easy to replace the tub to housing gasket and tub/housing seal.
During reassembly I also replaced the basket to centerpost gasket.
I went with standard delivery but got the parts the next day.
Parts Used:
Tub to Housing Gasket Basket-to-Centerpost Gasket Tub/Housing Seal
  • Dan from Grain Valley, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
58 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
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broken motor pulley
i removed the plastic cover.then i disconnected the harnest.i then removed the 2 screws and took the motor out. i took a hack saw blade and made a mark in the old pulley. i then took a screw driver and put it in the crack and tapped on it and the old pulley fell apart. i then put on the new pulley and reconnect the motor. i then reconnect the belt.my washer is working great.it was so easy and i save myself some money in the process.
Parts Used:
Motor with Pulley
  • leighton from staten island, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
62 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer would agitate, pump, but not spin
First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.
Parts Used:
Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit Snubber Ring
  • steve from lebanon, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
60 of 72 people found this instruction helpful.
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make loud rubbing noise like a finger on wet glass
It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit.
Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.

1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring

2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top
* unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine
* tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center
* lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop
* remove the auger
* remove the white top from the tub
* remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub
* now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers.
* remove the tub

3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down
* remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws
* remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws
* now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw
* remove the brake guts and replace with new

4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew

5) re-assembly is opposite of removal*
* the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer

My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!

03-2011
Parts Used:
Washer Brake Rotor Brake Stator Brake Spring Snubber Ring
  • michael from mountain home, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
56 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the LNC6762B01
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