LNC6762A77 Admiral Washer - Instructions

just took the front off and then took the old motor off and switched over about 2 parts from the old to the new and then put the new part on and then placed the front back on and it was ready to go

Open the top of the washing machine by using a putty knife to release the latches at the right and left side. Prop up the top so it doesn't fall while working.
Remove the inlet hoses and put in bucket to catch water.
Remove the two screws that hold the inlet valve in place.
Remove the wires from the inlet valve. (One of the spade connectors one wire broke and I had to replace it.) I used needle nose pliers to pull the spade connectors off.
Remove the outlet hose.
Throw out old valve assembly.
Attach hose to new valve assembly. (My old valve assy outlet was slightly smaller in diameter than the new valve, but I was able to get the outlet hose to stretch enough to fit--couldn't use old spring clamp though, but new valve came with a hose clamp--worked fine.)
Attach wires same way as they cam off old valve.
Position and use the two screws to screw assy back into back of washing machine. (The screws had to tap the holes on the valve, so start out a little hard.)
Reattach the inlet hoses and check for leaks.
I also ran both the hot and cold in a cycle and the reraised the top to check for any leaks internal to the machine.
Pus the top back down to engage its fastening clips.
Job done.
My washing machine is 23 years old.

I decided to replace the entire agitator. The Dispenser, Agitator, and the screw had already come off when it broke. All I had to do was pull/slide the base off the motor. Then I slid the new base in place, slid the agitator on top of the base. I then screwed in the retention screw (which was probably the hardest part due to the small access). After that I snapped on the Softener Dispenser and I was done.

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

Removed damaged pulley installed new pullley and clutch. The directions made it easy. Aligned pulley as detailed and installed new front feet and tested washer. Took me about 30 minutes to repair. Washer has been working since. Thanks guys for a nice no nonsense package.

First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!

I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move unit away from wall.
3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber.
4. Pull out cap (#58)
5. Remove ring clip (#57)
6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation.
7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store.
8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52.
9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws.
10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring.
11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out.
12. Clean or replace what you need.
13. Do the reverse to put everything back.
14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.

1. Pulled top off (liquid softener dispenser section)
2. Put 2 socket extension and a 13 mm socket together with socket wrench (tool).
3. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and unscrew bolt.
4. Remove tool and then remove old agitator.
5. Turn old agitator upside down to remove bolt.
6. Insert new agitator where old agitator was in washer.
7. Insert bolt.
8. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and screw in bolt.
9. Pop top back on.

Hardest part was finding extensions because one wouldn't reach.

Popped off bleach cap on top then got socket and long extension removed bolt, cleaned a little then replaced new agitater top.Replaced bleach cap and i was done.