LFC21760ST LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.

Pops right In

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Verified that the contact switches were good. Issue was in the main board. Pulled fridge out from wall. Unplugged fridge from wall socket.
Took out 3 screws holding cover of main board. Unplugged main board. Replaced main board and reconnected plugs to main board. Replaced cover with 3 screws. Pushed fridge back against wall.

Followed instructions online

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.

Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.

I just popped in the new cover lamp. It took less than 5 mins. if that much.

I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new switch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.

I have moderate to good mechanical skills, but getting the old switch out was a sizeable challenge. Since this switch suffered some damage during extraction, I was lucky to have ordered a new one to replace it. Reinstall took approximately 90 seconds. PartSelect saved me an expensive service call.

Covered the sidewall with tape to protect. Pried the switch out with knife blade and removed electric plug with needle nose pliers. placed plug in new switch and pushed switch into the hole in the side wall. Took about five minutes.

Unable to complete repair, had to send parts back
Part should have been PS11732074, but got PS11732704- wrong part
This was a substitute part and was 2" too long

Waiting for refund on this part. It cost me $14.50 to return it by UPS!!!