LEA30AW (PLEA30AW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

I tried to do the repair like the video said. My dryer was different. Using a putty knife to get the dryer lid up did not work There was 2 screws on each side holding the dryer top down and had to be removed. Did not have to take drum out.

Not quite as show on your repair intructions. But, all in all not that difficult. Things went very well. However, in the midst of the repair I found I had to replace other worn out parts.

Followed the instructions shown in the video. Very easy,

I first unplugged the dreyer from the wall, I then used the putty knife to push clips in on top of the dreyer and opened the top. I used a nut driver to remove the front panel and unplugged the light and door switch wires. I then reached under the drum and removed the belt, and then lifted the drum out of the cabinet. I used snap ring pliers to remove the rollers and replaced.them with the new ones. After installing the new rollers I placed the new belt around the the.drum and lifted the drum by the belt placing it back into the cabinet. With the drum back in place I reattached the front panel and turned the drum to make sure it was not hanging up on the felt rings. With the drum moving freely and the belt hanging down I layed back in front of the dreyer and put the belt on the motor and reached up to.the tension pulley and placed the belt under the pulley. Once the belt had tension on it I again manually rotated the drum to make sure it wasn't binding anywhere. All was good so I replugged the light and door wires, shut the lid and plugged the dreyer back into the wall socket, turned it on and it worked great. From start to finish it took about.40 minutes and half that time was spent cleaning out the cabinet which had quite a bit of lint. I have used the.dreyer several times since the repair, and this completely took care of the problem. I highly recommend ordering the rollers along with the belt as mine were well worn and it saved me from having to take it apart twice. All in all a very eazy do it yourself project.

Too simple to describe.

I would have been sick to have spent 100 bucks or more on a repair guy, or worse, several hundred on a new one. Six bucks and I'm back in action. I am only average handy, so anybody with a little talent can do this. I took the bottom front cover off first. Then opened the door and took the cover on the inside off. When you do this, you will have to disconnect wires from the door switch and inside light. Don't worry about it, they are pretty easy to remember what goes where, but if your scared, get little pieces of masking tape, write on it which connector it lands on, then tape it on the wire. The inside door cover will also take the vent and the connecting duct to the blower with it. You may have to wiggle the duct a little to get it off the blower. After that, I unfastened the top and lifted it back and out of the way. You should now be able to fully see the drum. No bolts, just slide it right out. If your belt is still around it, you may have to play with it a bit to get the tension off the belt. Once you got the drum out, you'll see the idler arm and pulley. I took the whole arm off (one nut and bolt) to make it easier to put the new pulley on. Once off, the hardest part of the job was to get the retaining ring off. If you got the right tool, it would be no sweat, but I didn't want to go to town, so I used two pairs of needle nose pliers to get it apart. New pulley slides right on, however, I would advise cleaning off any hardened grease on the idler arm connection and putting new grease on it. Put everything back together in reverse order. The belt can be a little tricky, but they have an awesome video on here, and once I watched it, had the belt on in 5 minutes. Buttoned everything back up just in time for kickoff. About an hour and a half work, less if I had the right tool to get the retaining ring off.

First I take off all front cover and then the dirt strainer next is the dryer drum holder next the top cover I lift up and so you room to set the dum belt

I popped the top open by depressing the spring clips with a putty knife. I then used a socket to remove the two bolts holding the front panel on either side near the top. Once the front panel was removed, I removed the frame that supports the front end of the tumbler drum. I then removed the belt tension by sliding it off the motor tensioner and removed the drum. Once the drum was out I had easy access to the high limit thermal fuse that I had to replace. After the fuse was replaced I put it back together the same way I took it apart.

Unplugged the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the spring clips. Opened the top and photographed then disconnected the wires at the top of the terminal block. Removed the old power cord and terminal block. Installed new terminal block. Reconnected wires according to pictures. Installed new power cord.

I was amazed just how easy it was. It would have been much quicker if I had a nut driver instead of a wrench. The video was great. Thank you!

first repaired the high limit fuse but it tripped again, after a couple of loads i then ordered a new one and a thermostat and everything has been good so far. i recommend replacing both at the same time.

As you see I replaced ALL these parts, not because they were broken but some were a little worn and while I had it apart, might as well do a total maintenance job. Could not at first figure out the thumbing, but while inspecting, notice the belt was almost cut thru, could have gone at any time, one drum support roller was dragging as well as the idler pulley wheel. Could have sanded down all the axles for each wheel but might would have too much play after Also cleaned every part and nook and cranny while all was apart. Put everything together and it still....thumped. While running I held a flashlight underneath and around every part, and finally found the issue. The very back of the tumbler had a hair line crack about one inch long, causing the two pieces of metal to get in a bine while at the bottom of the rotation exactly between the two rollers. Soooooo, at 450.00 for a new one, I just used a screw driver, steel punch and hammer to mold in like I wanted and it quit making any nosy, applied HD steel tape on both sides so the crack will not catch cloths while drying and presto redneck engineering at its best...no more thumping and is as quite as the day we bought it, and since cleaning out all the internal ducks it dries much better and faster. Otta last several more years, yaha.

Disconnect power supply. remove two 5/16" machine screws from bottom front cover, pull out and down cover will pop out. open door and remove lint screen. Remove screws from top of dryer and pop it off and get out of the way. Now remove front panel and lint screen body. there are screws inside of dryer for screen body. Make sure to take photos of wires or make a diagram so you put them back correctly. Now you can remove drum and see pulleys. This is all pretty self-explanatory. Just re-assemble in reverse. Whole project takes maybe 45 minutes.

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

Turn off dryer 220V breaker at panel. Remove front kick panel (two 5/16 hex screws at lower corners). Check continuity of high limit thermal fuse with meter; no continuity: fuse blown. Remove two wire clips with pliers. Remove fuse with nut driver (two 1/4 hex screws). Install new fuse. Replace two wires. Replace kick panel with two screws. Reset breaker at panel. Reset, start timer: dryer has heat.