LDF6920BB LG Dishwasher - Instructions

Simple, removed screws securing machine in the cabinet, then pull the unit out of the cabinet space about 10 inches. Springs are accessible within this extension. You need strong hands to extend the springs and attach them. Once attached, push machine back in place and re-install the anchor screws. In my situation, only one spring was broken, so the attached side revealed the correct slot to place the hook on the top position, the bottom position has a plastic lead for the spring, and that lead is attached to a rope to the door hinge. Note: Replace BOTH springs, even if only one is broken.

Unscrewed the screws, displaced the dispenser and re installed the screws

Pull the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop took 2 minutes unscrewed the panel on the side one minute put the connector on one minute screwed the panel back on 1 minute put the dishwasher back underneath the counter two minutes very easy job

Turn off the power at breaker box. Disconnect the power at dishwasher since I needed to pull the unit all the way out of the cabinet to get to screws on the back side for this model. Find and remove the screws to the cover. Remove cover. In my case, the rope on the connector assembly had snapped. I replaced spring and connector identically to functioning side. Did need a pair of pliers to provide enough tension on spring to install. Reconnected cover and power and moved back into the cabinet. Easy repair and my wife wondered why I hadn't done it sooner.

When I turned the dishwasher over I discovered the PS3579323 diverter motor had failed due to a leak around the PS3536016 valve, check. No use replacing the diverter motor without fixing the leak so I turned the machine back over and disassembled the spray arms and top of the pump cover which reveled the case assy and the valve, check. Upon removal of the valve, check I discovered hair wrapped around it which compromised the MO31 packing and caused the leak. I probably could have just cleaned out the hair and reassembled it but because my installation is a bit of a pain I elected to change the case assy (because of a slight depression where the packing sets) the M031 packing, the MO25 valve, check, and the MO35 pump gasket. After that was accomplished I turned the machine upside down and replaced the MO26 diverter motor and reinstalled the dishwasher. End result: Ne code cleared, no leaks and now the dishes are clean on the top shelf and the wife is happy. There are great instruction videos on YouTube. Good luck!

Relocated dishwasher to garage and set it up on a table (easier on back having it elevated). Connected temporary water supply, drained to a bucket.

Removed pump, and found it severely corroded, indicating leakage from pump shaft seal in sump. Inspection of seal revealed excessive wear, requiring sump replacement (there is no way to replace just the pump seal). I have photos of old pump & sump, but I don't see any way to upload them.

Removed sump from dishwasher with all components attached, swapped components over to new sump, reinstalled sump (with new sump gasket) and started dishwasher to check for leaks. The heater was the most difficult component to swap. Reinstalling the sump assembly was tricky.

Reinstalled dishwasher into kitchen cabinet.

Disconnect washer - pull out and turn on it's right side. Remove bottom plate (2 screws). Water intake valve is attached to water line. Disconnect water line. On the other end of the pump is a rubber hose. Disconnect hose by using a pair of pliers to open pipe clamp. Disconnect the electric line by pulling the pronged plug out of the pump. The part is composed of the pump and a metal mounting plate. They are connected by 4 screws. Remove the screws and pull out the back half of the pump. The front of the pump is attached to the washer frame by 2 screws. When removed you will notice an o-ring that forms the seal between the two halves. Remember this when installing the new pump. You will have to take the new pump apart because the whole part will not fit through the frame opening, thus the need to make sure the o-ring is properly seated. You can either install the mounting plate to the frame then attach the pump half or with half of the part in front of the frame and the other half behind the frame connect the two, then attach it to the frame. Reconnect incoming water line using teflon tape and a crescent wrench. Reconnect out-flow line with the pipe clamp and attach the power line. Since you have to take the new pump apart make sure the o-ring is properly seated as it will have a tendency to fall out. Reassemble the rest.

Snapped the rollers on.

Loosened 3 screws and unhooked supply line and electric box and pulled it out.

When I found the problem to be the check valve I reinstalled the drive motor and water pump, ordered the part I needed,Installed the new check valve, installed the rest of the parts and did a test run which corrected the problem.

Turn off circuit breaker. Turn off water at shutoff valve usually located under sink. Disconnect water line from dishwasher. Disconnect wires for the power feed from cord, Marked corresponding wires upon removal for re-installation. Remove 2 mounting screws that secure dishwasher to counter. Slide dishwasher out from counter and turn upside down. Use a blanket to prevent scratching of surfaces. Locate component on the back portion of the dishwasher. Unplug 2 wiring harnesses. My part was held on by 2 phillip screws. One in front, the other in the back along the leg bracket support. Once removed, reverse the order of removal. The i a You Tube video you can locate fr this removal. They said that you needed to release a clip to get the part out. Mine had a screw holding it on the back side. This difference cause about an extra 1/2 hour before I was able to figure out that there was NO clip that was being shown on the video. After that, The replacement went smoothly and we were having the dishes washed later that day.

The noise is caused by a defective motor bearing. The bearing fails due to water intrusion after the motor shaft seal in the sump assembly starts leaking. It maybe worthwhile to replace the entire sump assembly ( illustr. M007) instead of the motor only to prevent premature failure of the replacement motor.
(Unfortunately the shaft seal is not available as a separate part).

The inside gasket deteriorates over time - However replacement is easy. the main thing you have to remember is after you remove the old gasket, install the new one starting at the middle top of the tub and work your way down both sides. Also, don't push the gasket all the way in...only enough to hold in place. When you close the door the gasket will form a better seal around the door.

I can’t tell you how it went....ordered my parts on 11/2 and still have not received, they won’t be here For 2 weeks! I won’t get them until 11/15 and 11/16 hmmm 2 weeks for parts......

I got on line and 'chatted' with an online person. After describing the problem, she told me it had to be the water entry pump. I ordered it and put it in. VERY EASY. Then, it still didn't want to work right. It would start & stop and never get a full cycle. So I got online and looked at the diagrams provided, and decided to take off the "Filter Assembly Mesh". After already replacing the water entry pump, I took off the Filter Asssembly Mesh part (by undoing 8 screws), & found that the pump gasket was somewhat coming apart. Upon waiting for receipt of these two items, I realized that I thought it wasn't getting hot either. Once again, I looked at the provided online diagrams and ordered the heater assembly. After placing the dishwasher on its front again, I traced the connecting wires, marked them for later replacement & removed those & removed the ground wire and pulled out the old heater. Voila', its was rusted in two places. Ordered the heater. Upon receipt, I placed a small amount of Vaseline around the heater gasket prior to inserting fully. Reversed the process, assured myself everything was in and properly seated and tightened. Put the machine back in and it works great!