LBC22520ST LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Used a screwdriver to take off broken clip and then used same screwdriver to replace with new clip. Very easy.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Part Select folks are very professional & courteous. They can only identify the replacement I needed based on data from LG. The data is WRONG. LG should be billed by Parts Select for their valuable time & shipping expenses. What I did was take the old shelf assy with rails & insert 2 each 1/4 - 20 threaded rods into existing holes in the rear of the shelf with nuts & lock washers on the inside & outside of each rail to stabilize it. It facilitated adjustment required to keep the rails parallel so the meat box would be secure. 85 year old guys shouldn't have to do this. LG should do a better job of servicing their product throughout its anticipated life expectancy. They should also send me the proper part.

Very easy . Took out old in with new.
Dimensions provided by this site were exact

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Pull off the grill cover and remove the 2 screws from the old part and simply screw in the new part. Don’t lose the screws there are no new ones with the new part. Replace cover.

Just slid out the broken drawer and slid in the new one. The web site was very user friendly and my drawer arrive in only a few days. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!

Plug in the replacement ice maker to the socket in the frig, fit the back of the new ice maker into the slot to the rear, attach with 2 screws saved from removing old ice maker. Simple.

Followed instructions online

Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was larger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced.
Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"

Covered the sidewall with tape to protect. Pried the switch out with knife blade and removed electric plug with needle nose pliers. placed plug in new switch and pushed switch into the hole in the side wall. Took about five minutes.

Bought a new shelf. Bought a center support (new), Put the new center support in the shelf. Removed glass, old shelf and drawers. Replaced the broken shelf by hooking the new one in to existing supports. Replaced glass. Replaced drawers.

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.

Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.