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LAT8616AAE
LAT8616AAE Maytag Washer - Overview
Sections of the LAT8616AAE
[Viewing 8 of 8]
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Belt Kit
PartSelect #: PS2005284
Manufacturer #: 12112425
This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both V-shaped. If your washer does not toss, spin, or drain water properly, this might be because one of these belts has worn or stret...
$41.25
In Stock
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
PartSelect #: PS2351899
Manufacturer #: 6-2095720
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. Th...
No Longer Available
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$5.42
In Stock
Lid Switch
PartSelect #: PS11723153
Manufacturer #: W10820036
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
$23.69
In Stock
Timer Knob Base
PartSelect #: PS11739297
Manufacturer #: WP22001659
This timer knob is not quite three inches in diameter. It is all gray in color and it is made entirely of plastic. This has a D-Shaped Shaft.
$23.31
In Stock
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11743008
Manufacturer #: WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This ...
$7.76
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.79
In Stock
Drain Pump
PartSelect #: PS11743017
Manufacturer #: WP6-2022030
This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
$200.68
In Stock
Timer Knob Insert Cap
PartSelect #: PS11739300
Manufacturer #: WP22001664
This timer knob insert cap is just over two inches in diameter. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
$11.10
In Stock
Rubber Foot Pad
PartSelect #: PS11738859
Manufacturer #: WP210684
The leveling leg pad or foot pad fits over the leveling leg on your washing machine. The foot pad is designed to protect your floor and keep the washing machine level and in place. This foot pad is ju...
$15.28
In Stock
Washing Machine Lid Hinge Ball
PartSelect #: PS11738871
Manufacturer #: WP211726
This washing machine lid hinge ball is well under an inch in diameter. These hinge balls are sold separately, though two are required per lid. This lid hinge ball is made of plastic and is used for Ma...
$11.14
In Stock
Tub Bearing Kit
PartSelect #: PS2347235
Manufacturer #: 6-2040130
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is no...
$55.59
In Stock
Questions And Answers for LAT8616AAE
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Evan
January 15, 2020
Water fills on all cycles, but does not complete except on the delicate cycle. I replaced the lid switch, but no change. The timer is running, but it is not opening or closing the cams. I am assuming the lower end is fine because the delicate cycle completes.
For model number LAT8616AAE
Hi Evan,
Thank you for your question. If the washer is not completing any of the cycles except the delicate cycle and you have already replaced the lid switch, you will need to check the timer, the timer knob base, the timer knob insert cap, the timer knob spring, and the timer dial skirt. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Common Symptoms of the LAT8616AAE
[Viewing 12 of 12]Leaking
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Spins slowly
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No hot or cold water
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Lid or door won’t close
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Spinning Issues
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Noisy
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Shaking and Moving
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Won’t Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools ... Read more and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools ... Read more and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
Read less
Parts Used:
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Charles from Whitman, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
568 of 614 people
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water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa
... Read more
shers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
Read less
Parts Used:
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douglas from bonita springs, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
523 of 544 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Washer Leaking and Spin Cycle stopping frequenly
* Remove front Panel
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to l ... Read more oosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to l ... Read more oosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Dan from Mason, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
206 of 218 people
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