KUDV25SHBL2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

The part came so fast without extra shipping. It took only 10 minutes to replace water tube and upper spray arm. I only had to remove one screw. Replaced with new parts and reinstalled screw. It was easier and cheaper than calling a repairman.

Replaced the bottom door seal. Found the job to be very easy. Just slide the bottom seal off, slide the new seal on, and it fixed the leaky problem.
The part was shipped immediately making the total experience worth while.

Removed the lower panels from beneath the dishwasher door. 4 screws. Turned off the water.

Removed one screw holding the inlet valve to the side rail of the dishwasher. It was attached to the hot water line and then the washer water input line. Removed the electrical connector..Pull straight off, and use a pair of pliers to open the squeeze clamp on the washer hose. The hot water supply hose has a brass fitting to loosen and remove.

Replaced the inlet valve, reconnected the electrical and also replaced the hot water line from under the sink to the washer. Used a new braided 5' hose with fittings. Used teflon tape on the screws and did not over tighten the brass fittings.

Turned on the hot water supply and checked for leaks. Operated the washer and checked for leaks. Replaced the lower covers.

The pump outlet gasket was sticking out and a screw was missing from the pump outlet housing. This was causing water to flood out under the door.

Once I removed the pump outlet housing I saw that the gasket was out of place almost all the way around. I cleaned around the housing, replaced the gasket and the missing screw.

You need a Torx T-15 for this repair. Note that all of the screws on the housing were loose so you might need to tighten them from time to time.

Be careful not to drip a screw when you are installing it since it's a real hassle to fish it out from under the screen.

Once everything was tightened up, the wash pressure seemed to be much higher.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Well, after I got the the dishwasher apart I realized the problem was not the wash impeller kit, it was the pump/ motor asembly. we deicided to replace the machine. the hardest part was holding the impeller from turning while removing the screw. there is a hex on top of the impeller you must hold in place but, if the machine is old, the hex is brittle,It will break as mine did. you will need to disconnect and take the washer from under the cabinet, and wedge a piece of wood into the motor to hold it. Then loosen the screw and inspect the components. 10 years old, it was more cost effective to replace the dishwasher. i emailed for a request authorization to return. partselect responded promptly with the autorization i needed to return the part. The service was good, and I would use partselect again.

I thought that the valve inlet was defective. Ordered the replacement, got it in one day, replaced the part...
and it worked perfectly. Saved big $$ in a service call. Found everything I needed online.

I removed the screws from the inside of the door which revealed the elctrical panel and seperate fuse assembly. I simply pulled the old fuse off the wires and pushed the other onto the wires. I then held the door onto the face of the dishwasher while reinstalling the screws. Very easy and inexpensive repair.
Plesae note: I decided to repair the dishwasher myself after calling a repair guy who, after inspection, told me the electrical panel had to be replaced for a cost of $409.00, I decided to see if it was a simple fuse. (Which it was)

First remove front panel of dishwasher. Held on by 2 screws on bottom of panel. Remove the electrical connections from the dispenser. Remove the six screws on the dispenser and remove dispenser. Reverse steps to install new dispenser.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

The new racks virtually slid right in! Very little work.
My dishwasher looks brand new! I should have ordered from you years ago!!!!

I am EXTREMELY satisfied, and will be back for more! I highly recommend PartSelect! The parts arrived quickly, and were a breeze to install.
THANKS!

!. I read the directions
2. Unplugged the dishwasher and removed the racks
3. I took off the 2 bottom panels and unhooked springs
4. I bent outward the tabs holding the door rod(A little difficult to get them bent far enough to remove the door)
5. pulled the door up and out of the bent tabs
6. Pulled out the old gaskets and replaced them with the new gaskets (I soaped the door one with liquid detergent)
7. Replaced the door etc and it does not leak!

This part is extremely delicate if put in or if you try and force it on. You will break more than you fix. There is a definite trick and when you know it, the installation is (no pun) a snap. The trick is to place the small plastic in such a position that the only "snap' required for installation is on the heaviest and thickest port of the small part. Then carefully use the pliers to pinch only between the plastic covered bar and the heavy part of the plastic clip...blip, it goes right on. Try it any other way and you will break more than you can fix....

As others have described, this replacement was very easy. The new spray arm is solid plastic instead of rubber (which had deteriorated and was the part that needed replacing). So it should last longer.

You have to keep and reuse the mounting bracket that attaches the spray arm to the upper rack, so don't throw that away!

The replacement was super-easy, and as others have commented, the dishes haven't been this clean for a long time. Well worth it.