KUDS01FLSS6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Chronic problem with KitchenAid dishwasher -- the connection between the tensioning spring on each side and the dishwasher door are two cheap twine-and-plastic assemblies. Opening and closing the door stresses the twine, and eventually it breaks on one side or the other. The only way to fix it is to replace the twine-and-plastic assembly, which is really simple to do once the replacement part is received. Takes longer to pull the dishwasher out from under the counter than it does to replace the part. In seven years, this is the fifth time one of these parts has failed.

This kit repaired the loud squeeking immediately. Worth the money because with this kit both wheels turn, so that the loud squeeking door noise wont come back. Dont waste money on the OEM kit.

Somehow, a wooden chopstick found it's way to the chopper (a small disposal in your dishwasher), and broke the (plastic) rotor. Food was no longer being finely chopped, and was unable to pass through a filter screen. This reduced water pressure, and prevented effective operation of the upper spray arm. It is not difficult to get to the chopper to make the repair. Refer to the guide taped to the backside of the floor panel. Note that the chopper can be accessed through the bottom of the tub itself. Remove the spray tube from the wash module manifold, then twist the manifold CCW to release it. Then, remove attaching screws to the screen, foreign object protector and inlet protector to reach the chopper assembly. I replaced the broken chopper and reversed procedure.

See previous advice. Make sure you place a bath towel in bottom of machine to prevent dropped parts getting into drain. slightly push down on upper water supply tube to permit room to get finger and attaching button in place. Squeeze button by opposing finger and thumb to snap together the arm keeper receptacle and arm.

Verified that the fuse was dead prior to order via an ohm meter (if broken, you'll get infinite resistance; if working, you'll get 0 ohms). I snipped the wires to the old fuse, stripped the wires to about 1/4 inch; I blew out the small pieces of copper wire strands that fell into the circuitry; replaced the fuse assembly then replaced the circuit assembly; up and running in under 20 minutes.

1. Removed the baskets 2. removed the bottom sprayer 3. removed the shield at bottom of dishwasher 4. removed cover on food chopper 5. removed food chopper and screen 6. replace with new food chopper and reinstall each item 1 - 4: The video on this site was very helpful. This solved the problem. Thanks so much.

The PartSelect video was quite good. I viewed it before ordering to determine if I was confident that I could do the repair and reviewed it again immediately before performing the repair as a refresher. Here are a few extra items of information: (1) There was plenty of extra length in the drain hose and electrical connections, so I only needed to disconnect the hot water supply before pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. (Be sure the circuit-breaker is opened and test for dead on the dishwasher electrical supply.) This simplified later re-connecting and tightening and dealing with drips. (2)When I tipped the dishwasher onto its side, a bit more water than expected drained from the sump out onto the kitchen floor. I put 2 2x4 blocks under the dishwasher side to prevent the insulation from getting wet. (3)When loosening the 3/8" retention bolt and shield, I needed to use a flexible screwdriver shaft and a nutdriver socket on the end of the flexible shaft, since a brace under the dishwasher prevented a straight-on approach. (4)The guidance on the video showing the amount of wiggling to remove the old impeller/motor was valuable, since it provided confirmation that some repetition of the twist and pull motion was needed/expected. (5)Finally, it can be helpful to carefully track which is the old motor and which is the new, since if one inadvertently places them next to each other, the only identifiable difference may be a small amount of water in the old impeller assembly. (One would hate to inadvertently re-install the old motor.) Re-assembly was easy and straightforward.

Very simple repair when you're supplied with the proper parts. Their delivery time is exceptional !

1. Removed lower dish tray. 2. Removed old gasket by pulling it out. Came out easy. 3. Cleaned gasket track of food particles with toothbrush and rag. 4. Found center of new gasket and installed new gasket by starting at the top center and work around track pushing gasket in until seated. 5. Tested and no leaks.

I found the problem when I found one of the torque screw partially out. The door was not closing properly. The heat blow the fuse. I removed the head were the control board is found and replaced it with the new kit. When you add the new fuse kit. It is needed to cut the old wire from the old fuse and adapt the new wire harness by stripping the wire . Then screw the wire tight to the adapter. And it's done. Also make sure to test the cycle of the dishwasher ,by timing it. All came out good. It's operational.

Remove inner door cover and replace fuse. Wire harness was not needed.

Forget about trying to lube these hinges! This is a "known problem" relating to the nylon cord and pulley configuration. The real solution is to replace this faulty part and it's really easy to do... check out KitchenAid site for help.

Easy to find part online, quick delivery, new part had different end but site claimed it fits my brand/model and it DID! One of my few true "five minute jobs"

it about 30 min to replase this part it was easy as pie.

Followed instructions in fuse kit.
The fuse had been replaced before, so I did not have to cut wires.
Repair was successful, dishwasher operational.