KUDE40FXBT5 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Replacement was pretty easy after figuring out how to unsnap/unlock the old pieces. Tools only used to do a little prying and poking, but really aren't needed. Everything either snaps or slides together. Piece of cake

Pulled dishwasher from under counter, attached link to spring, hooked spring back into frame/chassis, threaded link through pulleys, attached other end of link onto door, reinstalled dishwasher under counter. All's well. Note-I purchased an extra link anticipating that the other one will fail. They're cheap enough.

I took the broken basket adjuster off and then attached the new one. It wasn't too difficult, however some removal instructions and re-install instructions( or just a picture supplied) would have been helpful. This isn't an issue for a mechanically inclined person, but would be a challenge for someone that isn't. Thanks.

Caviat: The actual repair is less than 15 minutes, but I spent a lot of time playing with it before I figured out it was that easy and fast. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from the counter to do this. And it will probably help to look at the new part closely so you can understand where the retainer clip is to press it and release the old pump.

First remove the water from the dishwasher pan that would not drain with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise the water will all drain on the floor when you remove the pump. Then remove the two screws on the kickplate on the front of the unit below the door. Remove the kickplate/maintainence access cover. The drain pump is on the right about 8 inches in. Using two hands you grasp the drain pump with your right hand and use the left hand to push the retaining clip down. Then the drain pump will rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise and can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out. There is likely to be some water leak out that was traped in the pump housing that you can not reach with the vac. Disconnect the wire. Connect the wire to the new pump, put it in place and 1/4 turn clockwise to install it. Replace the kickplate and you're done.

Took apart broke piece and disassembled parts. Ordered new main part but used old clips to reassemble. Part arrived swiftly (2 days), put together and works fine. Saved repair bill and house call. Used screwdriver to pry apart main clip that attached adjuster to top of rack. There were 5 clip type pieces in total and analyzed right hand adjuster as model for reassembly.

1. Open the dishwasher and remove the two plastic grommets about halfway down on either side of the opening. Then remove the two screws under the grommets.

2. Remove the kick plate under the door. May have to lower unit by turning the feet using the adjustable wrench.

3. Make sure you have enough slack in the water input line and electrical wiring that you can pull the dishwasher out about 12 inches or more.

4. There is a spring and nylon rope link on both sides of the unit. Probably just one link is broken, but the replacement comes with two, so you can replace both or save one as a spare. Look at the good side and it should be pretty self explanatory how it attaches. I found it easiest to first thread the link around the lower pulley, then attach the link to the spring, then spring to the rear support, then the link to the door.

5. Reverse (2 to 1) to reinstall the dishwasher.

This was the second time I had this problem so I knew the symptoms and remedy. The tools needed were two nut drivers a ¼” and 5/16” along with a flat pry bar and Phillips screw driver. I started by removing the lower front panel by removing the two ¼” screws on either side. The lower panel will lift up and then can be removed by pulling on the bottom. There is a flat sheet metal piece behind the front panel with insulation that can be removed very easily along with the front panel. When the front panel is removed it exposes the front legs that may need to be dropped to let you lift the dishwasher over the tile (if you have ceramic tiles). The next step would be to remove any ties to the counter top if it is attached. Mine were attached by the two straps on either side with Phillips screws. After the top is free, lower the front legs by lifting the dishwasher with the flat pry bar and threading the legs up into their holders. With the legs lifted the dishwasher can be pulled out to expose the tension springs located along the sides at the very bottom. Chances are the ropes are broken off the plastic holders that fit over the door hooks.
Remove the plastic guides by removing the 5/16” nut from the middle of the lower roller. Remember to note which hole the screw is coming from this also sets the tension for how fast or slowly the door drops. Placing the nut closer to the front will drop the door slowly and toward the back will drop the door more quickly. I placed mine in the middle hole. When the plastic guides are removed attach the nylon pope to the spring and attach to the back of the dishwasher. There is a hole located on a flat piece of sheet metal the spring will attach to at the back of the dishwasher (if it is broken). Check the other side if it is still in tact. With the spring in place weave the rope around the plastic guides then pull the springs to help get the plastic end over the door hook located at the bottom of the door. Repeat this operation for the other side (kit has a both sides covered) and reinstall dishwasher in cabinet.
Steps
1) Remove front panel (1/4” nut)
2) Release Dishwasher from Cabinet
3) Lower front legs
4) Pull Dishwasher out from under Cabinet
5) Remove Rope Guide (5/16” nut)
6) Install new Rope Guide (Supplied in Kit)
7) Attach new rope to Spring and attach spring to dishwasher
8) Weave rope through rope guide
9) With door closed pull spring to relieve tension so rope can be attached to door
10) Repeat for other side (Kit has both sides)

i removed the top screw for the water input to the spinner, which gave me enough room to replace the worn nipple pin that the spinner snaps on to. then snapped the new spinner in place. and then screwed everything back into place.

All you do is pop out the old wheel unit at two (2) points on the plastic wheel housing and pop in the new one. Easy fix. Less than a 5 minute fix.

The online video we found was really helpful.

Easily pulled old gasket from channel. Soaked new gasket in warm water. Cleaned debris from channel with wire brush and CLR. Starting at top-middle, gently pressed new gasket in place. Used a gentle push-pull technique on the corners. Used fingers to smooth gasket all around. Closed door and kept latched for 2 hours. Ran dishwaher to check for leaks.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)

Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.

The leak was dripping from the diverter motor. After removing dishwasher the diverter motor was found to be corroded. The shaft grommet looked good. A new diverter motor was installed and dishwasher connected. After running it awhile the leak reappeared. It seemed the only possible thing left was the shaft grommet. Of course the grommet comes as part of the belly assembly. After searching for a better and cheaper solution I ordered a Whirlpool WPW10195677 grommet and it solved the leak.