KRS220RGW0 Kelvinator Refrigerator - Instructions

When cleaning the coils on your refrigerator always remember rule number 1, unplug it first. I was cleaning the coils and hit the fan blade while it was moving with a brush, thus breaking off one of the fan blades. I ordered a new fan and installed it in about 15 minutes. Very easy repair.

After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I then turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.

After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.

I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.

Really, really, really easy:
1.Unplug refrigerator (electrical safety).
2.Remove cardboard cover at bottom of refrigerator (two short self-tapping bolts) with a wrench.
3.Pull old fan blade off fan motor shaft (just held on by a compression fitting--no tools needed).
4.Push new fan blade on shaft.
5. Replace cardboard cover.
6. Plug in refrigerator, write nasty letter to Frigidaire.

Turned freezer off at themostat and unplugged freezer. Removed 2 screws at front 2 at the back and 2 at the top. Lowered top cover and removed evaporator fan bracket (2 more screws) removed themostat capulary tube( 1 screw and bracket) then unplug fan motor. Removed motor from bracket (2 screws). Put on new fan motor then removed fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Remounted fan motor bracket and thermostat capulary tube. Remounted top cover, plugged freezer in the set the thermostat to 4 and freezer is working fine and doing its job. I orderedmotor on a Sunday and it was shipped on Monday and I received said part at 7:pm on Wednesday.

slid freezer away from wall - - bottom left hand corner was the frost timer - - removed two philip head screws - - unpluged timer and installed new timer - - turned timer past first click to a little past second click (freeze cycle) - - slid freezer back FINISHED - - YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST WITH YOUR WEB PAGE AND HELP!!!!! Next day freezer was at 0

It was fairly easy. Only had to remove the back cardboard. Remove 3 screws and the power plug.
Replacing the screws took a little time the motor mount didn't seem to be tapped exactly for the screws supplied and it was in a tight area. Its working great now.

Watched the defrost timer to see that it wasnt moving, looked the part number up on your site and it even had a picture of it so I knew I was getting what I needed, ordered it when it came I took out the screws holding it in place unplugged old one and plugged in the new one, freezer works like new... :))

One day my freezer's overtemp light/warning came on. I knew the compressor was working properly (as it was still running) and that there were no leaks.

I was able to research about how this freezer worked and learned of this mechanical timer on the back of the freezer. It turns on/off the defrost mode of the freezer.

I manually turned the knob on the back to see if I could get the freezer to defrost. Turns out the timer was no longer working and when I manually ran the defrost, the freezer started to freeze again.

I just replaced this part and my freezer is working like norma.. Simple as all it takes is a few screws and you are done.

Pull refrigerator away from wall, being careful not to kink or break water line to ice maker, unplug refrigerator. Using 1/4" nutdriver, remove cardboard lower rear panel, bottom lifts out. Fan and motor are now directly in front of you, grasp the moter to stablize it, and using your other hand, pull fan hub from motor shaft. Be sure motor shaft is clean before reinstalling new fan blade, press new bladr onto motor shaft, until center of blade is centered on outlet side of fan housing. spin blade by hand to insure clearance. Plug refrigerator in and observe operation of fan, refrigerator needs to be calling for cooling for this fan to operate. Reinstall cardboard panel and move refrigerator back into position.

I knew that the problem had to do with the timer so I went online and looked at the schematic diagrams on Partselect and identified the part that should handle the problem. I ordered it and it arrived fairly quickly. It took a Phillips screw driver and about fifteen minutes to remove the old part and replace it with the new one. Very easy repair. It is working as it should now.

The most difficult part was the removal of the existing fan and shroud. There is very little room to work between the condenser and the coils where the fan is located. The old shroud had to be removed as it was not compatible with the mounting for the new fan motor and blade. Make sure to unplug the refrigerator and give the coils some time to cool down. The first step was to remove the old fan blade... it simply pulls off. Next you need to remove the two bolts holding the fan shroud to the floor of the refrigerator. Then you need to remove the old fan motor from the shroud... unplug the wire connection and remove two small bolts that hold it on. I was lucky to have a VERY small ratchet to get into these tight spaces. Now is the really hard part, removing the metal fan shroud takes a lot of twisting and turning to get it out. The coils have a little play in them, but you must be very careful of the tubing and connections. Also, the coils are very sharp. Once this is out, IF you can get it out....I had my doubts along the way, you can start to put the new parts in... beginning with the new fan shroud which fortunately is made of plastic and has some give which makes it easier to get in. Then you can mount the new motor to the shroud with the three new screws. Plug in the wire connection, add the foam tape to the shroud and mount the shroud to the floor of the frig with the original two bolts. Lastly, attach the fan blade. This replacement kit is well constructed, fits perfectly and contained all the necessary parts (fan motor with wiring connection, mounting screws, wire connection adapter, fan shroud, foam tape and fan blade), but no detailed instructions come with it. I was lucky to get the old fan shroud out without doing any damage to the surrounding parts, but this part was very difficult for a do it yourself person. I would be interested to know if a professional has some other tips for this part of the replacement process.

The broken fan made my refrigerator sound like a lawn mower I pulled the refrigerator out of it's nook and disconnected the power, removed the back panel with my battery powered drill motor, slid the old fan off of motor shaft, slid the new fan back on ran it to make sure the problem was corrected. The entire repair took less than fifteen minutes and was as simple as it could be. Please be careful when cleaning your coil, as the fan is easily damaged if you should contact it.

Removed evap cover from Commercial Refrigerator. Removed mounting screws from Evap motor mount. Replaced evap fan motor. Repositioned. Reinstalled evap cover. Tested . This motor was hard to find locally. Glad I called.

Looking on-line at your diagnostic for this problem, I saw the most common part to cause this problem was the start capacitor, so I purchased one & installed it with no positive outcome. I then purchased the next recommended part which was a defrost timer & installed it with no run again. Frustrated, I looked at another diagnostic web site that claimed 90% of the time the problem is caused by the cold control thermostat. I tested mine and it tested bad, so I bought a control elsewhere, since your site did not list a PN for that device. I installed the new control and the freezer started up correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram for these parts, I see the start capacitor and defrost control are downstream of the cold control thermostat, and to my mind should have been the first part recommended for testing versus the parts I bought, so I am somewhat disappointed in the diagnostics on your site, where I spent about $80 for parts that were functional.

After Sear told me it would cost $289 to repair my $350 freezer. (They charged me $65 to tell me this)
I went on line and found you guys. Found a part diagram. Looked for the weakest link. Then pulled my freezer away from the wall, got down and found the same part I suspected was the weakest link (attached to compressor) pulled it off shook it and it rattled, being plastic and cheap looking I figured I found the problem) Paid 28+ for it, it arrived, I installed and I'm freezing up a storm and a hero.
jeff kern
deputy sheriff