KHWS01PMT3 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

I ordered the part, followed the instructions listed on appliance help and put it in... easy

We followed another very helpful repair story. Unplug machine. Unscrew top back screws, remove top of washer. Reach inside from the top in the front of the machine. Remove screws holding latch in place, unplug the three plugs attached to latch. Replace with new door latch, screw it in place, replug the three plugs, put top of machine back on, replace screws on back and your'e done! Works great! Job made easy thanks to others helpfulness!

Slid the washer out, took the hoses off and the back panel then the front panel, found coins in the filter tray and a baby bottle plastic cap was sealinhg the drain going into the plastic filter housing (it fits perfectly) removed all the items and put the white plastic screw cap back on the drain. Next problem was the washer walking around the laundry room, upon fixing the drain problem noticed the front shock absorber was unhooked and two on the right side of the machine had leak some grease, rehook the front shock and ordered two new ones it don't walk around anymore and works smooth and quiet now. I also have to add that Parts Select has been absolutely GREAT had the parts, delivered when promised.

Replaced pump assembly

It took me a minute to put the baffle in place. The piece got here in one day. I would order again from here if I ever need any parts for any of my appliances. Thanks Anne B.

Plastic door hook was broken in half and door lock (DL) error code was showing-- though the hook was still in the door (each half held in by its own screw) and the door actually felt as if it was still latching o.k. After reading some things online, I though it was worth buying new hook since it was cheap, and giving it a try. Got it for a total of about $11.00 a little over 48 hours after placing order. It took about a minute to put it in. Then, tried to start the washer and "Voila"-- same error code still appeared! Read some more stuff online and saw a recommendation for "restting" this error by unplugging and replugging the pink wire harnesses at the back left of the top of the machine, after taking off the top (held on by just 3 screws at the back edge). So I did this (after first unplugging power cord), and this time "Voila", it worked! So I assume the error code was initially caused by the broken plastic hook, but the code stayed in the system (even though I had also tried unplugging the power earlier)- and then was cleared off when I did wired harness unplug/replug operation. So the situation was a little puzzling, but still an "easy fix" overall.

The washer tech manual stated to: 1) remove the top, 2) control console, 3) front below the door (front load washer), 4) remove the retaining wire, 5) pull back the rubber bellows, 6) remove the three screws and remove the door latch/lock assembly. I discovered that steps 1 through 3 are not required to replace the assembly. Installation is the reverse of steps 4 through 6. That was easy. The difficult part was figuring out how to reset the pressure switch so the drain pump would not start every time you reconnected to the power supply (pressure switch thinks the washer still contains water). With the power disconnected, I disconnected the pressure switch from the central control unit. Then I reconnected the power supply and pressure switch. That reset the pressure switch solved the problem with the drain pump. Washer works fine now.

It was an easy fix,all I had to do was pull the washing machine out and remove the top off the washer,leaving everything connected,I cycled the machine to figure out where the leak was in the first place,then unpluged the washer,turned off the water and removed the water lines from the back of the washer(be sure to have a couple towels handy)disconnected the 4 color coded wires from the inlet valve making note of which color went to which relay,disconnected the hose from the inlet valve,and removed the one screw holding he valve to washer.That was all,then reversed the procedure to put it all back together. success! took about 20 min start to finish.

Unplug washer. Open door. Look at the very bottom of the bellow and will see a spring that is connected to a small wire that runs around the bellow holding the outside on. Using a flat head screw driver insert it between the wire and bellow, pull down slighty. Grab the wire and gentley pull off. Now the outer part of the bellow will be free, pull it toward you, and off the water/soap despinser, then push it into the washer. Now look to the right side and you will see a screw head that is actully a big clamp ring around the bellow. This is the hardest part. Use a small rachet screw driver with a 7mm socket to lossen. Pull clamp off gently, you can now removwe the bellow. Put bellow back on in reverse. There will be a small tab on the bellow it goes to the top. Took about 2 hours.

This took ten minutes .... super easy .... DO IT YOURSELF!!!! About 75.00 with shipping ... can only imagine this woulkd have been 250 to 300 to have somebody com e onsite.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Removed 3 screws from back to remove top. Then 1 screw to release the valve from the back. Take off hose spring clamp remove hose, then do it all in reverse oder. It was a snap.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

The replacemnt inlet valve was a little shorter than the original. I had to lenghten the slot on the back of the washer to get the mounting screw in the hole to attach the valve. There is only one mounting screw, so this was an important part of the replacement.