KGSC308LSS0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I took a jewelers screwdriver and completely cleaned out what was left of the old pads. Then applied a small amount of heat resistant rtv sealant to each hole, slid in the new pads and wiped off the excess. I let everything set overnight. The next day everything was solid. Job was complete. Note I've done this before and did not get the results I did this time. I believe it was the instruction that came with the pads and the tip-off to use the rtv. Thank you PartSelect T.Garr

Replaced valve, 3 pipe connections 4 wire connections, still did not work, small flip up valve was set at off position, set to on, still did not work, replaced ignitor, bingo that was the real problem, reinstalled old valve, still working fine; returned new valve assembly for full refund! Thank You

Looked online and found it was probably the igniter which wasn't firing. An incredibly gratifying and easy experience with the self-fix. Worked on the first try just like new.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Replacing an oven igniter is one of the easiest repairs you can make to your oven. There are two igniters - one for the broiler and one for the oven itself. Oven Igniter: Start by removing the rear panel of the oven which attaches with a couple screws. Inside the oven, remove the "butterfly" shaped heat deflector (over the flame tube) which attaches with four screws. You now have access to the igniter. Remove the two screws which attach it to the bracket. On the rear of the oven, unplug the two spade connectors. Pull the igniter out from the front of the oven. Fish the wires for the new igniter through the same hole. Plug the 2 new wires back in. You can't mess this up - the wires have matching connectors and you can't get them confused. The broiler igniter is a little more complicated. You will have to remove the side panel of the oven to reach one of the connectors. It's just a couple more screws. The procedure is the same, but the wires are much harder to "fish" through the hole though. Unscrew the broiler igniter from the bracket and unplug the wires. Before you pull them out, attach a length of clothes hanger so that you pull the hanger into the oven from the rear. This way you can attach the new wires to the hanger and then pull them through to the back of the oven. If you don't attach something when you pull the old wires out, it is very hard to fish the wires for the broiler igniter to the rear of the oven. Good Luck!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

Step 1. Always ensure appliance is unpluged from power source. 2 Remove oven door by open slighly and lift up be sure your hands are up from hinges they can snap back and injure fingers. 3. Have a cover on a flat surface and have a diagram of oven door, 4. Remove bottom screws and slide out top glass and side rails. 5 Remove top cover and insulation over glass. Beware of any jagged glass. 6. Incert new glass. 7. Be sure when replacing insulation and cover that cover in under tabs to ensure glass is firmly held in place repeat steps in reverse order. Took just 20 minutes to repair. I used a small electric screw driver.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inner glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.

pull out the stove,took the top back panel off, take off wires one at a time on new spark module.. easy

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour