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Models > KESC307HBS6 > Instructions

KESC307HBS6 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for KESC307HBS6 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KESC307HBS6
1-15 of 171
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Hidden bake element burned out.

  • Customer: Robert from Powell, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 176 of 201 people found this instruction helpful
This heating element is accessed from the right side of the range. The parts drawings are misleading, making you think that it can be accessed from below -- not so!

Remove the right side panel from the range by removing screws on back edge, and bottom center on the inside. Slide the panel forward to release from tabs on the front edge, then pull out and off.

Separate the insulation that hides the terminals and access cover for the element., then remove one screw at the rear edge of this panel, and slide it toward the rear, then pull out.

Before disassembling the side, you can check to verify that the element is burned out by removing the rear panel and doing a continuity check on the wires leading to this element from the rear of the range. The wires on my range were a salmon or pink color with high temperature insulation.

Oven not heating

  • Customer: Neil from Flemington, NJ
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 124 of 145 people found this instruction helpful
Before you begin,some notes:

1. The wiring diagram on the rear of the oven incorrectly shows a bi-metal element in the L2 side of the oven heating element circuit. There is no bi-metal element in the circuit.
2. There is a fast blow 20 Amp fuse with radial leads in the L2 side of the oven heating element circuit which is NOT shown on the oven wiring diagram on the rear of the oven. If you have a malfunctioning heating element this fuse is probably blown and you will need to replace it by removing the rear panel from the oven. The fuse is located toward the bottom, is shrink-wrapped and contained within a wire bundle.
3. The wiring diagram in the manual shows neither the fuse or the bi-metal element.

To replace the lower heating element (aka the hidden element)
Disconnect power to the oven.
Remove oven from it's location to gain access to the right side panel.
Remove three screws holding the right side panel in place and remove panel
Disconnect both wires connected to the element terminals.
Carefully pull back fiberglass insulation to reveal element holding bracket.
Remove one screw holding the element bracket in place and remove both element and bracket.

Installation is the reverse of these steps but make sure you replace the fiberglass insulation correctly or you will experience problems with heat transfer and a possible hot-spot on the side of the oven.

The quality of this KitchenAid oven is very bad. The parts are cheap and not well finished. No thought has been given to serviceability and the product's documentation is defective. The entire device has been designed for low-cost production and not for reliability or longevity. It is easy to see this when you study the documents and take the device apart. The morel of the story is: don't spend extra money on a KitchenAid oven because a less expensive brand will probably be of equal or better quality of design and/or parts quality. Access to the lower heating element could easily have been designed for front or rear removal. A service technician would charge around $250-$300 to perform this repair including parts.

Inside door glass broke

  • Customer: MANNY from LIVERMORE, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 114 of 125 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the oven door by lifting it off with the hinges. Disassembled the door parts one at time making sure I remember where I removed the screws until I am able to get to the broken glass. The most difficult part is making sure that the insulation strip & the gasket stayed in place after I replaced the broken glass & doing the reverse process of installing the parts together. Relatively easy process as long as you remember where the parts go. When in doubt, I had to refer to the pictorial of the disassembled door shown on your website.

Radiant element, 2400 watt, under Ceran glass cok top needed replacement.

  • Customer: GEORGE from NEWNAN, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 137 of 211 people found this instruction helpful
turned off power
removed ceran top from cabinet
removed element
installed new element
replaced top
powered up and was done

Bad Element

  • Customer: Michael from Howell, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 63 of 106 people found this instruction helpful
Bought new element and installed. Very simple. Used phillips
screw driver.

Inner Oven Door Shattered during cooking.

  • Customer: Gloria from Melbourne, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 41 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
First, layed tape across all broken glass to keep glass from shattering more and releasing more bits of glass. Pull up and out the oven door. Had table set aside covered with an old sheet to lay door on, After laying door on table, Removed outer screws. Needed phillips #2 & #3 tip widths and electric screwdriver, for inner screws that where difficult to remove. Making notes of what came off first! ( (rt & left, bottom,/top) when removing metal frame braces, and in what order they go in when reassembled . Did the same with screws & set them aside in groups. Then marked the groups of screws. Removed the metal door panel. Carefully removed the in between panel of glass. Set Outer glass aside along with metal "door"and inner door glass,and proped them up in a safe place. Carefully removed the broken & shattered inside glass wearing rubber gloves. Had a garbage can next to the table to with news paper to wrap glass. Cleaned area. Replaced glass taking care not to tighted screws so much as to break the glass. Put added insulation.(Whcih was not the same as in diagram), around the edge. put back the inner glass panel, care not to leave prints, tighten screw ( care not to break glass) Cleaned the door sides and bottom, all had alot of grease buildup.
Put back the metal door portion. Cleaned the outer glass door front and back. Being careful not to break it (or leave prints inside). Replaced the side and bottom metal frames. Wiped it down and put door back on stove.

double coil which center coil had burned out on glass top range

  • Customer: Frank from Owls Head, ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 38 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug range and remove back panel (4 screws) unplug top burner plugs (2). Open oven door and remove 2 screws from under front of top. Pull top out and up to unhook from back. Remove top and lay cardboard on top of range. Flip over the ranges glass top unit and lay on cardboard. Remove screws from steel bottom and remove from top. Flip over steel bottom with burners attached. Remove attaching clips for burner and unscrew them from the burner then reinstall in new burner in the same place as old burner. Lay new burner on top of old burner and remove one wire at a time, transfering it to the matching plug on the new burner. When wiring is done remove old burner and attach 2 clips to steel backing plate. Vacuum off the glass top and reinstall the steel bottom to the glass top. Flip over the top, remove cardboard and slide top into back of range top and lower into place. Attach 2 screws under front. Reattach the tops plugs at the rear and reattach the back panel. Plug in range and slide back into place. Test units and all other burners. Done...

Socket Light had a bad thread

  • Customer: Edmund from Emporium, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 35 of 47 people found this instruction helpful
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

No heat on burner

  • Customer: paul from trumbull, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 34 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off electricity! Pulled stove out -lifted up glass top(carefully) simply removed burned out coil and replaced it with new one.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb

  • Customer: Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

inside glass broke due to oversize pan

  • Customer: Robert from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
After reading all who did a simular repair, I was better prepaired for what to expect before my wife and I bagan to take apart the oven door. It may help or hinder if you had extra help. At least two people and no wittnesses for intertainment.
Consider paying to have it done if your not willing to attempt to repair the oven door glass from this poorly designed door and its componets.

I wish we had a video camera to record the repair due to all the steps involved.
For the most part, all internal parts float together and only the most inside sheet of glass is screwed down.
You will need a work table to place the door on, scewdrivers, penatrent spray, cleaning solution and rags or towels.
After removing the door from the stove, just by opening the door slightly and lifting upward evenly, the door will come off the stove with its hinges attached.
With the door front facing up, and handle off the work table so door lays flat, we removed the screws along the bottom of the door.
With the screws removed, the bottom strip comes off. A strip on each side may now drop off.
This will allow you to lift the bottom end of the panel just enough to detach it from the clips that hold it on the top end. Theres one on each side.
The 2 fixed clips go inside slots of the door panel.
It may take a little tugging back and forth, up and down to remove the panel.
There are side strips by now will come off now too.
Once this panel is out of the way, you can remove each piece. Remember the order and record if you can.
The glass that was broke is secured by screws that may require some spray penatrant to loosen.

Make sure you use a perfectly fitting screwdriver as to not strip out the screw heads.

Carefully remove all broken pieces of glass than vacuum the surrounding area.
Clean all glass panels with glass cleaner and paper towels or newspaper.

With the heat gasket in its proper place, install trim with a new glass panel and return each piece in the order you removed them.

Make sure everything is returned to its proper position before you re attach the inside door panel. It may require a little effort to align everything together to accomplish this.

Return the door to the oven by inserting the door hindges into the door slots and you are done!

Sit down, have a cocktail and ask yourself if it was worth the trouble. I thought it was.

Defective Surface Burner Element - 1800W

  • Customer: Robert from Daytona Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
First discount Ac from wall, then take out 2 screws on the front of the range top and lift up the top of the range surface, then while holding up the surface top take out the front burner and replaced new burner element.Let the surface top down and screw in the two screws. the surface top of the range is hinged so it would be good to have someone to hold the top up while you replace the element or use a piece of wood to hold it up,this is a piece of cake to repair. would like to thank parts select for their service. I have ordered from them before and they back up their products

Oven light not working

  • Customer: Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

Hinges were broken

  • Customer: Sheila from Tustin, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Take the door off the oven by sliding out the old hinges that hold the door on to the oven. Put the door up on a protected table so that the hinges can hang down and free of the table. This step will make the job go much more simple. Proceed by removing all visable screws. Make a mental note on how the old hinges are held in and how the door comes apart. Take your time this is not a hard task! I am a homemaker, was taking care of my grandson that day and still accomplished the task in under an hour. The repair people wanted $145.00 labor only to install this part!
All Instructions for the KESC307HBS6
1-15 of 171