KECD865HBL4 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!

I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables

just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you

To replace the switch I had to disconnect the current, un-connect the metal exhaust duck work and lift the entire unit from the countertop. Very heavy unit to lift up and out. The entire unit is attached to the glass top by screwed on metal hanger strip. Once the glass top is removed the switches can be accessed under a metal cover. This disconnect can't be done while mounted in countertop. No problem installing new switch and reinstalling countertop. This was a real inconvenient design. Should have been access from the bottom of the unit.

1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from the range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.

Removed the two screws, on both sides of the oven wall corner. Gently lift the front end of the glass top and pull towards me and disconnect the two electrical sockets. Carried the glass top assembly on the kitchen table and turned upside down. Removed the six screws. Removed the assembly from the glass top. Turn the top burners assembly over and disengaged the two clips of the burned out burner from the assembly plate. Transferred the two clips to the new burner on the exact locations like the old ones were. I have placed the new burner on the location and snapped the clips on the slots. Removed the connectors one piece at a time and connected to the new burner. Reversed the previous disassembly and all was done Works like a charm. Thank you all for assisting me in providing the necessary parts and video instructions. It was a lot cheaper than to buy a new range.

Removed burned out burner, replaced new burner tested works fine

Got a new fan switch. Removed the heater dials. Disconnected exhaust tube from blower (it was sealed with aluminum tape). Lifted cooktop straight out of the counter-top, rotated it a little so that it would rest on a pair of 2x10's I set at the extreme corners of the counter-top cutout. After that it was real simple - unscrew the tangs from the sheet metal. Then use a screw driver and gently pop the glass free of the sheet metal housing. Once the glass is off, unscrew the control panel cover and rotate it over. The switch is mounted with a jam nut - remove that and disconnect the cables. Reverse the process with the new switch. Only beef I had was the housing sent by part select was damaged, so I had to swap the electrical innards to get the thing to work. It took 60 minutes and most of the time was spent cleaning the baked on food off the cooktop and countertop. Had to use a razor blade to scrape the crud off. Actual repair without cleaning was 20 minutes.

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

ordered, came the next day and just slid it on the gas stem

i did fine

Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.